Bhopal Travel Guide with Best Things to Do
Why would one go to Bhopal in Madhya Pradesh? India has several famous sightseeing cities and Madhya Pradesh itself has 3 UNESCO Heritage Sites, then why Bhopal? My recent visit to Bhopal opened up a completely different facet of this city which has been badly scarred by the Union Carbide Gas tragedy in Dec 1984. It has long bounced back and is hungry for tourists. Based on my visits, I have prepared this Bhopal Travel guide with pointers to best things to do in Bhopal.
Today Bhopal is popularly known as City of lakes, Greenest City of India.
Glorious Past of Bhopal
Familiarize with history of Bhopal a bit before I walk you into the varied experiences and heritage monuments of this city. Modern day city of Bhopal has its foundation on capital laid by the Parmara King Bhoj (1000-1055) in 11th century. It was then called Bhojpal – derived partially from the name of the ruler and ‘pal’ meaning dam built by the ruler.
In early 18th century after Aurangzeb’s death, one of his Afghan soldiers, Dost Mohammed Khan managed to establish his small kingdom in Bhopal. It is said Khan received the territory of Bhopal from the Gond Queen Kamlapati in lieu of payment for mercenary services he provided. After her death he usurped her kingdom and formed the city of Bhopal.
Thereafter a series of Muslim rulers held the reins of the kingdom, and most of them were women, the Begums.
Reign of Begums in Bhopal
Begum Mamola Bai – It started with the rule by Mamola Bai (1744-95). She ruled for more than 50 years from ‘behind the curtain’ (purdah). She donned the role after her husband’s death and her sons proved to be no good. In 1818 Bhopal became a princely state of British East India Company.
Qudsia Begum – Bhopal was then ruled by the 18 year old Qudsia Begum (1819-37). She took over the controls after her husband was assassinated. She was a brave woman who even defied wearing the purdah which was customary for Muslim women then.
(There are mentions that she was extremely caring for her subjects so much that she took her meals only after receiving the news every night that all her subjects had taken meals.)
Visit of Lord Minto to Bhopal in 1909, Sultan Jehan Begum in burka
Sikander Begum – In 1844, her daughter, Sikander Begum took over and ruled till 1860. During the 1857 Indian Mutiny, she sided with the British and crushed those who revolted against them.
Shah Jehan Begum – The state then passed on to Shah Jehan (1868 – 1901), her daughter, who was equally a great successful ruler. She had huge passion for architecture. There was elaborate public works that enhanced the looks of the city.
Begum Sultan Jehan – From 1901 to 1926, her daughter, Begum Sultan Jehan ruled Bhopal. She worked for more freedom for women, combined Muslim piety with ardent reform and established a modern municipal system. Sultan Jahan was the first president of the All India Conference on Education and first chancellor of the Aligarh Muslim University.
Thus for almost 2 centuries Bhopal saw a remarkable functioning of waterworks, railways, postal system, communal peace and a cosmopolitan culture under the supervision of these royal ladies.
Bhopal after Independence
In 1926, her son, Hamidullah Khan took over. He refused to merge with India. After a massive revolt in December 1948 he agreed to merge with Union of India in April 1949.
Tourism to Bhopal took a nose dive after the Gas tragedy in Dec 1984 when more than 3000 people lost their lives. Slowly but surely it has limped back to normalcy.
Today Bhopal ranks in the greenest and cleanest cities in India. All tourist destinations are spruced up well; more museums showcasing culture and heritage of Madhya Pradesh worth visiting have come up.
Even a 2 day itinerary of exploring Bhopal city may fall short of seeing and experiencing it all.
Bhopal Travel Guide
As I mentioned above Bhopal has grown multi-dimensionally throughout the past several centuries. Here is a travel guide for Bhopal with highlight on places around Bhopal.
Geographically the city is concentrated with old historical monuments, old mosques, narrow market lanes in north of lakes of Bhopal which contrasts with the new cosmopolitan facet that developed rapidly in past few decades in south. The Upper Lake and Lower Lake is a clear demarcation between the 2 sides.
Bhopal the City of Lakes
Bhopal has 7 lakes located at different parts of the city, and they are no small water bodies. They are Shahpura Lake, Kaliyasote, Kerwa, Motia Talab, Jawahaar Baal Udhyaan Lake and tow most popular ones the Upper Lake Bhojatal and Lower Lake (Chhota Talaab). If you have time enough you can dedicate one whole day just to tour these lakes.
Upper Lake of Bhopal – Badi Talab
This lake is also called Bhojtal. Locals and tourists flock around this lake as it is believed the water of this lake has medicinal properties. This lake is a major source of drinking water for the residents of the city, serving around 40% of the residents.
Besides that it also provides living to more than 500 fishermen families. There are several recreational facilities. Upper Lake of Bhopal is an ideal place in the city to watch a sunset and sunrise from its banks.
Bhopal Sight Seeing Travel Guide
Lower Lake – Choti Talab
This lake was built in 1794 to beautify the city by merging several wells. Though outwardly the lake is all spruced up and looks beautiful, the lake has no natural source of water and receives seepage water from Upper Lake.
Mosques of Bhopal
Bhopal is the only city in world where 55 ladies constructed 55 mosques which exist even today! Some of the old mosques of Bhopal like Soofiya Masjid (meaning mosque) at Koh-e-Fiza, Masjid Ibrat, Jama Masjid and Dhai Seedhi Ki Masjid are worth a visit. Bhopal is home to world’s largest mosque – Tajul Masjid and also the world’s smallest mosque – Dhai Seedhi Ki Masjid.
Times Passion Trail led us to Tajul Masjid the largest mosque of Asia. This was built by the 11th ruler, the 3rd Begum ruler, Shah Jehan Begum who was fond of architecture. The area of the tank, courtyard of the mosque, the land between the mosque and royal market is about 26 acres.
Read more: Guide to Taj-ul Masajid, Largest Mosque of India
Tajul Masjid – Bhopal Sightseeing Travel Guide
Bhopal Travel Guide to Museums of Bhopal
Madhya Pradesh is one of the richest states of India in terms of art, culture and heritage. Bhopal, the capital city, has several museums based on these different themes. Some must see museums of Bhopal are:
- National Archaeological Museum in Bhopal – Here you will find historical artefacts and documents that will help you dig deep into the history of Madhya Pradesh
- Tribal Museum in Bhopal – Madhya Pradesh is home to several tribes. This museum features an impressive collection of tribal clothing, crafts and tools.
- National Museum of Mankind – evolution of mankind with anthropological evidences is showcased here.
Bhopal for Kids
Children too have plenty of interesting activities to indulge in. The Van Vihar National Park, spread over 4.45sqkm, has animals housed in their natural habitat.
Kanha Fun City Water Park, 14km from city, is a favorite haunt for kids. The park has thrilling water rides, tube slides, rain dance, aqua disco arrangements, roller coasters, etc. All this makes Bhopal an ideal holiday destination for families with children.
Shopping in Bhopal
The art and handicraft items of Bhopal make good take home gifts for near and dear ones. Bhopal being the capital city accomplished artists from different parts of the state showcase their handicrafts here.
You can’t miss the famous Chanderi fabric, hand-woven combination of silk and cotton from the town of Chanderi. Art of bell metal casting from Tikamgarh, stuffed leather toys, dhurries and carpets from Gwalior and more are sold in the emporiums that line the streets of Bhopal.
What to buy – Bhopal Sightseeing Travel Guide
Bhopal Travel Guide – Best Day Trips from Bhopal
You can visit 2 UNESCO Heritage Sites from Bhopal, how cool is that! Bhopal is the nearest airport to these places. There are plenty and public transport services that you can use to reach the sites.
Bhimbetka Rock Shelter Caves
This UNESCO site is approx 44 km from Bhopal via NH46. There are 760 caves in 7 hills spread around 40 sqkm of the area; some have prehistoric art dating back to 100,000 years that is 8000 BC.
It will be quite overwhelming even to try seeing them all in a day. Largest numbers of caves, 243 of them, are on Bhimbetka hills. Hire a guide to know the story and meaning of these paintings. The discovery by VS Wakankar in 1957 happened by chance when he saw some unique rock formations when the train he was traveling by halted at that place.
Read more: 5 Interesting Facts of Rock Paintings in Bhimbetka
Bhimbetka UNESCO site – Bhopal Sightseeing Travel Guide
Bhojeshwar Temple
On your way back to Bhopal you can take a detour to Bhojeshwar Temple in Bhojpur which has the tallest Shiva Ling in world! Another intriguing fact about this temple is that though the construction started in 11th century it was never completed, yet people flock around this temple in huge numbers. Bhojpur to Bhopal is 28 km and the temple is open to all throughout the day.
Read more: Why Bhojeshwar Temple was left Incomplete?
Bhojeshwar Temple – Bhopal Sightseeing Travel Guide
Bhopal Travel Guide to Sanchi Stupa
On day 2 of Times Passion Trail we took road trip of 46km northeast of Bhopal to see Sanchi Stupa, the stunningly majestic UNESCO site. Sanchi Stupa of 3rd century BC was built by great emperor Ashoka. He commissioned the inception of Stupa to redistribute the mortal remains of Lord Buddha.
The magnificent hemispherical dome measures 54ft in diameter and is a canvas of Jataka tales that narrate the stories of previous birth of Buddha. Here again I urge that you hire a guide’s services to understand the beautiful monument. Tickets are nominally priced; there is ample parking space and good washroom facilities.
Read more: The wonder that is Sanchi
Sanchi Stupa Light and Sound show
Sanchi Stupa UNESCO site – Bhopal Sightseeing Travel Guide
Udaigiri Caves
If you are making a day trip to Sanchi from Bhopal you can extend the road trip 10km towards north to Udaigiri Caves. These caves are on a rocky hill and are the finest example of classical Gupta art, from 3rd to 5th century AD. Around 20 caves exist today, one of them depicts Jainism rest have statues of Hindu Gods and Goddesses. Udaigiri Caves to Bhopal is 57km and takes approx 1hour 20min.
Places to Stay in Bhopal
Like I mentioned before Bhopal is hungry for tourists and they have geared up well with good choices of hotels with luxury, comfort and affordability. OYO rooms start with as low as 250INR. Times Passion Trail hosted all of us in luxury hotels, one of them a palace turned to hotel.
Jehan Numa Palace Hotel
Times Passion Trail participants stayed in this hotel for one night. The property has a very beautiful setting with lots of wide open spaces. They have couple of restaurants for dining. There was a lavish dinner buffet in the roof top. Breakfast in the open lawns here is the most cherished memory I have of this place. Food options both veg and non-veg are very good.
Ambience throughout the hotel is excellent, a royal feel everywhere! Service is good and fast. Walls are studded with photographs of royal family. Lobby and each corner of the hotel is decorated with so many antique pieces that it felt like a mini museum to me.
Jehan Numa Retreat
The second night in Bhopal we stayed at Jehan Numa Retreat. The unique concept of the room was separate living room and an extended deck that offered a stunning view of lush green surroundings.
The night here was important because it is here the Times Passion Culture & Heritage Trail in Madhya Pradesh was flagged off. After a soul stirring musical performance by India’s first Sanskrit Band, Dhruva, various dignitaries addressed the gathering.
Here Padma Shri KK Muhammed addressed the social media influencers, stressing on the need to familiarize and popularize the culture and heritage all over India.
Read about him: Padma Shri KK Muhammed
The dining experience here was one of the finest. Flavors and aromas of the various dishes, chosen and carefully designed by the talented chefs, had us gasping! It was no less than a royal maharaja kind of experience.
Today as I write the events of 14th May 2020, I wonder if it all was a dream!
Conclusion
I sincerely thank Times of India publications and Madhya Pradesh Tourism for the opportunity to tour this beautiful state. All views in this post are mine.
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I’ve never had the chance to explore Bhopal, but I think I need to change that asap! I’m a huge fan of museums and the National Archaeological Museum and Tribal museum sound pretty neat! I would also like to visit the Bhimbetka Rock Shelter Caves.
I need to visit MP. Its very high up in my wishlist! I love this history about the Begums who ruled this place. Its just so fascinating. I’m very very glad to know that Bhopal is back to normalcy after the crippling gas tragedy. Ofcourse, Sanchi Stupa and Bhimbetka are the very major reasons I need to visit MP. Hope my trip isn’t too far away in the future.
I’ve never heard of Bhopal so it’s interesting to read about its history. I’d love to visit the museums, especially the National Archaeological Museum in Bhopal, and learn more about the art, culture and heritage here. Also, Bhimbetka Rock Shelter Caves look really impressive, and the view from Bhojeshwar Temple looks amazing!
It is the first time I hear about Bhopal, but it sounds like an amazing place. Thank you for the short history lesson, I always want to know about the past of a place in order to understand it in the present, ad I guess that is way I would love to see the archaeological museum! Anyways, sound like a beauful place, and I would like to visit it in the future.
Thank you so much for this comprehensive guide to Bhopal. As far as I can see, it is a combination of mosques, stupas and temples which makes it even more intriguing. But what is unmissable for me are the Bhimbetka Rock Shelter Caves. If there is an UNESCO heritage, then I shall see it.
Thank you for introducing me to the history of Bhopal. I have never heard about the gas leak in 1984, that is such a tragedy! The Udaigiri Caves look amazing (I wish there were some pictures of them in the article, had to google how they look like 🙂 )
I have yet to extend my travels to India and I was suppose to go in September but unfortunately like everyone else, travel just has to wait. I read so much about India and I just have no idea how I am meant to see all of it! Bhopal sounds glorious and I had no idea that Madhya Pradesh is one of the richest states in art and culture. That’s my kind of state. Maybe one day!
Aah Bhopal, the capital of MP and my many plans failed to visit this beautiful city. Many of us just transit here or not give attention to explore it properly. I would like to visit those museums to digging into the history. There are so many day trip options from Bhopal and my favorite would be Sanchi stupa. Love your guide indrani.