Sanchi Stupa, Ancient History and Architecture Gem of India

Finally I got to walk the pages of history books that had described the Sanchi Stupa. These pages are from the lesson on Samrat Ashoka, the great emperor of India, who ruled almost the entire Indian subcontinent from 268BC to 232BC.

The image of the Stupa that I got to see bore a striking resemblance to the picture of hemispherical dome that I had sketched in my essay on Sanchi Stupa. I hardly understood its complete significance then.

Decades have gone by. I have forgotten the facts and figures but the message remained strong and clear. Samrat Ashoka repented for the massacre he and his army committed at the great Kalinga War. He converted to Buddhism and took solace in the teachings of Lord Buddha. Sanchi became his karmabhoomi (work place).

Let me take you on virtual tour of Sanchi Stupa as I walk and relearn my forgotten history lessons from the archaeologist KK Muhammed, our guide on Times Passion Trail.

North gateway Sanchi stupa 1

History of Sanchi Stupa

Stupa means a dome-shaped building erected as a Buddhist shrine.

Great Emperor Ashoka built this stupa in Sanchi as long back as in 3rd BC. Since then this place has been the focal point of the Buddhist faith. Sanchi was called Kakanadabota then. Pilgrims from different countries come here to worship and pay their respects; this is recorded on one of the panels of a torana there.

Several centuries have gone by yet even today the grand structure still inspires awe! Situated on the top of a hill, it is visible from far and is a holy landmark of the town of Sanchi. But the dimensions weren’t so huge when it was initially built. The initial structure was made of bricks and mud mortar and was just half its present size, at 54ft.

Sanchi Stupa Torana

Shunga, Satavahana and Gupta Period

Almost 50 years after Ashoka’s death, the royal members of Shunga dynasty added layers on it with sandstone. Over the years each regime made their contributions. Elaborately-carved gateways were added much later, in the 1st BC.

This main stupa is surrounded by the remains of smaller stupas, monasteries, and temples which were contributed by other religious communities that thrived alongside.

Eastern Gateway Sanchi Stupa 1

After the Shunga dynasty the Satavahana dynasty too contributed greatly to the embellishment of the Buddhist stupa. Four Torana were added to Stupa 1. Check out the southern Torana (gateway), there is mention that it was the work of Satakarni II’s royal architect Ananda. Toranas were built after 70BC.

In the golden era of Gupta dynasty (319 -543AD) temples were built around this stupa. Check Temple 17, it is one of the earliest examples of Hindu Temple architecture by Gupta dynasty in that region.

Rediscovery of Sanchi Stupa

Till 12^th century the region flourished. People of different religions coexisted peacefully. After that for reasons unknown the place slipped into oblivion.

The site of Sanchi was rediscovered in the year 1818 by General Taylor. An archaeological Museum was established in 1919 by Sir John Marshall. He also initiated the restoration work of Sanchi Stupa.

In 1989 Sanchi Stupa was declared UNESCO World Heritage site.

Archaeologist KK Muhammed describing the panels of Sanchi Stupa

Significance of Stupa

Buddhists consider this place holy as it is believed to be the living presence of Lord Buddha, a depository of his protective powers and living energy.

Buddhist scriptures mention that after Lord Buddha passed away his cremated remains were divided into 8 portions. The 8 kingdoms in which Buddha had lived received one portion each. The respective kings constructed a stupa in their kingdoms to house these remains.

In 3^rd BC Ashoka traumatised over the horrendous killings that he and his army committed during the Kalinga War took refuge in the teachings of Buddha. He ordered the stupas to be opened, except the one stupa in Ramagrama near Lumbini.

He redivided the 7 portions of the cremated remains into 84,000 portions and distributed them all around the different kingdoms. Sanchi is one of them. Those days (3rd BC), the present day countries Pakistan, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh were all under Emperor Asoka’s control.

Sanchi Stupa Architecture

I could do pradakshina of the great stupa at Sanchi. One must do this in clockwise direction barefoot.  The brick layers of the stupa is clearly visible. At some places, in some parts the mortar and limestone layer too can be seen.

See below, this should help you understand the stupa structure you see in Sanchi.

• Main body of Stupa symbolises cosmic mountain.
• At the top you will find umbrella like structure on a square base called the harmika.
• The 3 layers of the umbrella represent the 3 jewels of Buddhism – the Buddha, the Dharma, and the Sangha.
• Higher circular terrace against the base, accessible by staircase, is for worshipers to walk around the stupa. One has to leave the footwear below to do this circumambulation.
• At ground level, there is another procession path that is surrounded by stone balustrades.

Sanchi Stupa Torana, 4 Main attractions

The 4 massive gateways in the 4 cardinal points around the majestic dome of first stupa are the main attractions in Sanchi. Observe carefully and you will find all are different. India’s national emblem of 4 lions is taken from one of these. Laughing Buddha too has its origin here.

Torana are ornamental gateways to Hindu and Buddhist temples. The ones at Sanchi are profusely carved, almost like a canvas narrating stories.

See a different Torana design here: Lodurva Jain Temple in Jaisalmer

Horizontal panels on torana of Sanchi Stupa

Various parts of Torana

• Buddhist Torana in Sanchi basically consists of 2 square vertical columns.
• Both columns are covered with carvings.
• These columns support 3 separate horizontal panels which again has innumerable characters from various stories carved on them.
• Between each of the panels there are ornamental balusters.
• All the 3 panels are supported on the columns by figures like group of 4 elephants, lions and dwarfs.
• Total height of torana is 10.36m and width is 3m.

The entire structure looks magnificent, and that is an understatement!

Stories on panels of Sanchi Stupa Torana

Following are just the few highlights of the 4 torana around the stupa 1 in Sanchi. Each of them deserves elaborate mentions. May be I will dedicate just a post on them some day.

Northern Torana

Columns and panels of this torana depict Buddha’s life. Various important episodes in life of Buddha right from when he was a prince, then his renunciation of worldly ties, encounter with demon Mara, his enlightenment, teaching his disciples and his death are carved in these panels.

Each torana can be identified by the supporting figures to the horizontal panels on the columns. In northern and eastern torana the supporting figures are the elephants.

Eastern Torana

The depictions in this torana narrate stories of miracles by Buddha. None of them depict Buddha in his human form. Instead there are symbols like: lotus or elephant for his birth. A tree or throne represents his enlightenment. Wheel represents his teaching and a stupa for his demise.

Southern Torana

The supporting figures of this torana are 4 lions. Inscription on this mentions That this gateway was donated by King Satakarni of Satavahana dynasty.

A panel in this torana has an image of Stupa of Ramagrama near Lumbini. This is the only stupa with original relics of Buddha that Emperor Ashoka did not open. It also shows scenes from the siege of Kushinagar for the remains of Buddha.

Western Torana

This is the most damaged one among the 4 torana. Many sculptures are missing. The supporting figures or bharvahak here are 4 dwarfs standing back to back. If you observe carefully 4 of them have 4 different expressions. One of them is happy and laughing. It is said that the laughing Buddha concept has its origins here.

Other Monuments in Sanchi Complex

Tour of Sanchi Stupa complex needs a dedicated 3 hours at least. In the same complex of Sanchi Stupa there are ruins of other ancient monuments.

Pillar 10 – Ruin of Ashoka Pillar just beside the Stupa 1. Only the base of the pillar is left standing just beside the southern Torana. Two more broken parts of this pillar is in a enclosure nearby.  It is made of finely polished sandstone.

One act of a reckless zamindar of that period, and all we have is the bits and parts of that grand Asoka pillar.

The Ashokan inscription is engraved in early Brahmi characters. The inscription mentions the warning of expulsion of monks and nuns who tried to create schism in Buddhist community issued by Ashoka.

The statue of the four lions that adorned this pillar is now in a museum.

Stupa 2 and Stupa 3 – Two more stupa are there in the same complex, believed to be made by Shunga dynasty. To get to stupa 2 take the route from the northern gateway. Stupa 3 is near the southern torana.

Temple 17, close to southern torana, is a Hindu Temple from Gupta Dynasty. Only few worn out yet exemplary sculptures adorn the temple facade.

Greek Temple – Some pillars are the only remains of a Greek Temple close to Temple 17. This one reminded me of Temple of Olympian Zeus in Athens Greece.

Remains of Greek Temple in Sanchi stupa

Location and How to Reach Sanchi Stupa

Sanchi is UNESCO World heritage site located 48.5km north-east of Bhopal, the capital of Madhya Pradesh. Bhopal is the nearest airport. Sanchi is well connected by rail and road. It takes 1hr 11min by road, estimate by Google Maps.

We made a road trip from Bhopal to Sanchi and then to Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh.

Google map Sanchi to Bhopal

Tickets and Timings Sanchi Complex

• Entry fee for Indian, foreigners and children below 15 years of age cost 40INR, 600INR and free respectively.
• Open on all days of the week 6.30am to 6.30pm.
• Sanchi Stupa museum is open from 10am to 5pm.
• Sanchi Stupa Light and Sound show 7.30pm to 8.05pm

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