Attari Border Beating Retreat Ceremony, a Goosebumpy Feeling

Going all the way till Amritsar and not visiting Attari Border would be a sin for all patriotic Indians! For those ignorant of the name Attari Border let me mention Wagah Border and Attari Border are one and the same place. Wagah is a village in Pakistan side of the border line while Attari is on India side.

Till September 2007 the place had just the name Wagah Border. In September 2007 Government of India changed the name Wagah Border to Attari Border. Both are villages that lie somewhere along the 48km distance between Amritsar in India and Lahore in Pakistan.

Attari Wagah border Indian side

It was a long cherished desire of mine to visit Attari Border to witness the Beating Retreat Ceremony. When we reached Welcomhotel Amritsar we were pleasantly surprised to know the hotel staff had arranged an experiential trip to the borders. How thoughtful of them, I felt so thankful! The luxurious lunch they presented was wiped clean very fast lest we miss any part of the ceremony.

How the name Atari?

The village here was name Atari in honor of great Sikh warrior Sardar Shyam Singh Atari. Maharaja Ranjit Singh knowing his capabilities made him Jathedar (Jathedar is a leader of a jatha, a group) of 5000 horsemen. Sardar Atari participated actively in many campaigns like the Campaign of Multan, Campaign of Kashmir, Campaign of Frontier Province.

Pakistan renamed their side of this village as Wagah and the name stuck. The right name would be Attari Border point.

Attari Wagah border Pakistan side

Historical Significance of Attari Border

Atari Border is no ordinary place. This is the only crossing point between Pakistan and India that is regularly open to tourists and goods trucks. Now that the business transactions between the 2 countries are at its lowest we couldn’t see any trucks lined up along the road. Pakistani Trucks are very colorful it is said.

Radcliffe Line, the boundary demarcation line that partitioned India and Pakistan in August 1947, runs through this place. Most of the migrants crossed over to either side of the border through this point. A landmark of several traumatic memories!

Attari Wagah Border Beating Retreat Ceremony

Attari Wagah Border Beating Retreat Ceremony

This unique ceremony was started in 1959. Over the years the event has gained popularity among the locals and tourists so much that this place features in almost every tourist’s itinerary.

Flag hoisting takes place every morning and the same is lowered every evening amidst cheers from the audience in both sides. The main purpose of the ceremony is to formally close the international border for the night.

Just before the sunset, bugles are blown, commands are executed, and smart marching by men and women of Border Security Force (BSF) and the flags are lowered. It may sound very simple as you read but in reality the patriotic fervor of the audience is at its peak! On the Pakistan side, Pakistan Rangers do this ceremony. They too have women soldiers.

A Goosebumpy Feeling!

It is just a military ceremony but the excitement and cheering displayed by the audience is hard to describe. It almost seemed like a national festival! People in audience painted their face with national flags, little kids waiving national flags, with loud slogans like Bharat Mata ki Jai, Hindustan Zindabad and Vande Mataram on their lips…

All of us waited for the ceremony to begin. Soon the iron gates on either side of the border opened. Officials lower their flags simultaneously. Soldiers on either side gesticulate at each other with acts like throwing high kicks and by staring, as if throwing challenges at each other. With each such gesture cheering reached the highest decibel level. Oh! I have goose bumps just writing this; imagine what it is to see in real!

Indian side can see the entire ceremony with sun setting in the background and the sky throwing multiple colors on its canvas. The flags are folded and the ceremony ends with a retreat that involves a brusque handshake between soldiers from either side. After this the gates are closed.

Tips for Perfect Views of Attari Wagah Border Ceremony

• Note that there are no tickets for this ceremony, no seats reserved.
• FOR BEST SEAT REACH EARLY.
• As you position yourself watch out for some obstructions for your camera which seems negligible otherwise.
• I had a surveillance camera just above the eye level which I failed to notice.
• The amphitheatre is open for public from 10AM.
• Ceremony starts at 4.15PM during winters and 5.15Pm in summers.
• No hand baggage allowed.
• DSLR and mobiles are allowed.

Location of Attari Border

Amritsar is the nearest city to Attari Border. Amritsar is well connected to other cities of India by road, rail and air. Nearest airport, 11km, is Sri Guru Ram Dass Jee (SGRDJ) International Airport. You can take state transport or private taxis to reach the Wagah/ Attari border. If you intend to stay in Amritsar the hotel staff will gladly arrange transport for you.

Other nearby sightseeing destinations

Golden Temple Gurudwara, Partition Museum, Amritsar Heritage Walk, and Gobindgarh Fort, all close to Attari Border.

If you are interested in more Beating Retreat Ceremony you may visit Mahavir/Sadqi border near Fazilka and Hussainiwala/Ganda Singh Wala border near Firozpur.

Read more…

Another International Border tourist spot is in Nadabet Gujarat. You can read about it here: Nadabet Seema Darshan

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