Khajuraho Temples, Masterpiece of Indian Art and Architecture

Khajuraho is considered to be the ultimate photogenic destination of India! Not only are the idols of deities worshiped within the temples exquisitely carved but also the sculptures of Khajuraho erotic temples adorning the facade, a masterpiece of Indian art and architecture.

As I write my concluding post, about the last day of Times Passion Trail through culture and heritage hot spots of Madhya Pradesh, I am reminded of the paintings of early men in Bhimbetka Caves I saw on first day.

It seems like only the other day man learned to hold the brush
and here in Khajuraho he boasts of mastery in sculpting stones,
so much so that they seem to breathe life!
What a journey!

UNESCO Site Khajuraho Group of Monuments

Khajuraho is worth visiting as this is one of the very few temples in India where you can find erotic sculptures. It is a world heritage site according to UNESCO. These monuments are important as they describe the goals of human life based on Hinduism (Dharma, Kama, Artha, Moksha). In those days of absence of books, these mute stone sculptures did the role of teaching to society.

Khajuraho Temples were added to UNESCO list in 1986. After spending a day in Khajuraho, which is in no way sufficient to tour all the temples, here is my take on its interesting monuments.

Peep into History of Khajuraho Temples

Temples of Khajuraho are 10 centuries old. Most of them date back to 10^th and 11th century. During that period around 85 beautifully sculpted temples were built. It is believed almost every king of Chandela dynasty who ruled built at least one temple. It was an era of flourishing art of architecture.

There are recorded mentions of these temples in the historic travel accounts Al-Biruni in AD 1022 and in the works of the Arab traveler Ibn Battuta in AD 1335.

Forgotten Khajuraho Temples

Can you believe these temples lay forgotten for some stretch of time in the medieval times? In 19th century, a British surveyor named T.S. Burt, tipped by a local, discovered, excavated and restored these temples of Khajuraho.

Sadly only 25 of the original 85 temples remain today. The famous Lakshmana Temple of Khajuraho was built by King Yashovarman between 925 to 950 AD.

In Khajuraho there is a mix of Jain and Hindu temples. It is a proof of tradition of acceptance and respect for diverse religious views among Hindus and Jains in the region that existed then.

Khajuraho temples in Madhya Pradesh

Khajuraho Temples Interesting Facts

• Khajuraho temples in Madhya Pradesh are the second most visited monument in India after the Taj Mahal.
• Mohan Das Karamchand Gandhi, a freedom fighter of India, wanted to chip the walls of these temples as he considered them indecent and embarrassing. According to him – these erotic carvings don’t fit in Indian culture!
• Rabindranath Tagore, first Nobel Laureate of India, intervened and protected them. According to him – they are the real national treasure left by our ancestors. Just because some people were uncomfortable doesn’t give them the authority to demolish them.
• There is one sculpture which can be mistaken to look like a sexual act between two men. However the guides explain it as a tantric guru teaching his disciple how to control the sensual energy.
• The sculptures depict the sensuous pleasure of life in an exaggerated manner, especially the ones that show combining sex and yoga together (unbelievable and difficult sex positions). The origin of these figures is traced to the Tantric cult mentioned both in Hinduism and Buddhism. (Tantric sex, where the objective is not orgasm, but enjoying the sensual journey and getting familiar with all your bodily senses, is believed to be a form of meditation to connect the physical with the spiritual.)

Jain Group of Khajuraho Temples

Jain Temples of Khajuraho are grouped in one enclosure. There are 16 of them.

Adinath Temple

Among them the Adinath Temple gives you a true jaw dropping experience. The richly sculpted facade of the shikhara shoots up as if to touch the sky. Notice the architectural contrast of the Adi Mandapa which was added to the main temple at a later date.

Idol of first Jain Tirthankara, Rishabhanatha, is housed inside this temple. A stunning perfectly chiselled black idol!

Parshavanath Temple

Just beside this is the Parshavanath Temple. While Adinath Temple is with single shikhara (tower), there are several of them in Parshavanath Temple. This is the oldest and best-preserved of the group of Jain Temples of Khajuraho. Its construction dates back to 954AD.

Facade of Parshavanath Temple, though a Jain Temple, has sculpted forms of Hindu Gods and Goddesses. Jain Temples of Khajuraho have erotic sculptures of female form.

Other important Jain temples are Ghantai Temple and Shantinath Temple.

Temples of Khajuraho – Erotic Sculptures of Female Form

Eastern Group of temples

There are 3 old temples in this group – the Brahma temple, Javari Temple and Vamana Temple.

Western Group of Temples

There are 6 temples in this western group of Khajuraho temple complex.

The 6 temples are: Devi Mandap, Varaha Mandap, Lakshman Temple, Kandariya Mahadev Temple, Mahadev Shrine, and Devi Jagadambi Temple.

Tour time for Western Group of Temples Complex at Khajuraho is 3 to 4 hours. You can set aside morning of your one day itinerary of Khajuraho.

Sculptures of the temples here depict various scenes from everyday lives. Only 10% of the sculptures temples of Khajuraho temples are erotic sculptures. You cannot categorize them as vulgar sculptures. They depict the artful and erotic female form. Facade on south and north sides, between the two balconies are adorned with large erotic sculptures.

Lakshmana Temple

We could get a view of the south side of Lakshmana Temple from staircase of Matangeshwar Temple. Top panel depicts a bearded god Agni, the God of Fire. Panel below that has baraat scene – bridegroom walking in procession accompanied by musicians. Notice Lord Shiva lip locked with his wife Parvati for centuries!

Temples of Khajuraho Erotic Sculptures – Lord Shiva with Parvati

Matangeshvara Temple

Most Hindu temples were dedicated to Lord Shiva. Matangeshvara temple is actively used by locals even today. This is the only temple in whole of Khajuraho where we could offer prayers.

The facade is such a contrast with no sculpted images, just lines around. Inside there is 16ft tall Shiva Lingam. It is believed that a sage named Matanga manifested in form of a lingam, and controlled Kama, the god of love.

Visit during February or March to witness a three-day ceremony of Shivaratri Festival.

Southern Group of Khajuraho Temples

This group consists of the Chaturbhuj Temple dedicated to four-armed God, Lord Vishnu and Duladeo Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Duladeo Temple in Khajuraho

We could capture the facade details of Duladeo Temple. This temple was discovered in a severely damaged condition. Interestingly it got the name Duladeo – Dulha Dev Mandir, meaning bridegroom’s temple, after a local legend.

Anurag Shukla, a reputed guide of Khajuraho told us the interesting story. It goes like this:

a bridegroom just before he was to get married got critically sick and was on the verge of passing away. The bride-to-be offered rigorous prayers to Lord Shiva in this temple. Her devotion and prayers answered, the bridegroom escaped the clutches of death.

Interesting, isn’t it?!

Khajuraho Temples Light and Sound Show

We had hoped to witness the mesmerizing Light and Sound program on these Temples in the evening, but it was cancelled due to COVID-19, corona virus. There are one hour shows both in English and Hindi languages in the evening after sunset. Timing varies a bit in winters and summers.

Tickets: Indians 250INR, Foreigners 700INR. Children below 5 – free entry.

Timings: October to February – 1830hrs to 1925hrs in English, 1940hrs to 2035hrs in Hindi.
March to September – 1930hrs to 2025hrs in English, 2040hrs to 2135hrs in Hindi.

Location and How to reach Khajuraho

Khajuraho is located in Chhatarpur District of Madhya Pradesh. Thanks to the popularity of Khajuraho Temples, tourist inflow is high and the town has an airport of its own. Thus Khajuraho is well connected to other big cities by air.

It is well connected by rail too. Take the train Khajuraho – Hazrat Nizamuddin Express. Mahoba, 75km away, is another major railway station.

We reached Khajuraho by road from Orchha, a distance of 191km. It took us a little less than 5 hours to reach the place.

Travel Tips for Khajuraho

• Best time to visit Khajuraho is between October to February: Temple tours during these winter months are comfortable. I visited mid-March, it was just bearable then.
• Wear a light jacket or just wrap a stole during winters. For summers wear loose light clothing.
• One day is sufficient for Khajuraho provided you plan well, choose just the important temples and hire a guide.
• Parking is available.
• Only Western Group of temples require tickets.
• Tickets cost 10INR for Indians and 150INR for foreigners, and 25INR for Video photography. Tripods are not allowed inside, however with prior ASI permission it will be allowed.

Which temple of Khajuraho has the most number of erotic sculptures?

You can find most number of Erotic Sculptures at outer wall of Lakshman Temple Khajuraho. Lakshman Temple is 10th Century temple, in Western Group of Temples at Khajuraho, a small village in Chhattarpur district of Madhya Pradesh India.

Should you hire a guide in Khajuraho temples?

If you want the Khajuraho sculptures explained well then hire a guide. Nobody else, not even books can explain the significance, purpose and stories of the erotic Khajuraho statues better.

Which is the most visited temple in Khajuraho?

Khajuraho temples in general, and Lakshman Temple in particular, has attracted a lot of travelers, more the youth, to find a relation between Kama sutra and the erotic statues.

How many days are sufficient for Khajuraho?

2D/2N is sufficient to tour and explore the Khajuraho temples with a guide.

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