Discover Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh – Best Things to Do

Chanderi was the trade epicentre since ancient times. While most people associate this place with the famous textiles the weavers here produce, there is a healthy balance of history, architecture and gastronomic options.

Mr. Muzaffar Ansari guided this Times Passion Trail through Chanderi.

Do read: Faces of India -351 Travel Guide of Chanderi.

Go back in History of Chanderi

Hindu epic story Mahabharata has mention of this kingdom of Chanderi. This region of Bundelkhand was known by the name Chedi, it was ruled by Chedi dynasty. Mahabharata mentions King Shishupal had ruled this kingdom till he was killed by Lord Krishna.

Fast forward several centuries, the next mention of Chanderi is found in inscriptions excavated in Chandragiri hills. Inscriptions on stones excavated here mention this fort was built by Kirti Pal, a Pratihara king of 11th century. (This is not to be confused with Chanderi Fort near Mumbai.)

Chanderi Fort of Madhya Pradesh

Chanderi Fort is a magnificent structure located on Chandragiri Hill at a height of 71m. Its 5km long fort wall runs through the town, crumbling at places and near non-existent at some places.

3 Battles of Chanderi

So sought after this Chanderi kingdom was that several rulers have fought tooth and nail to conquer and annex it. Hold over Chanderi Kingdom kept alternating between Mughals and Rajput Kings and then between Rajput Kings and British colonisers.

Most tragic incident happened at the famous second Battle of Chanderi between Babur and Medini Rai. Babur recaptured Chanderi but all its residents had committed suicide by the time he entered the kingdom. He mentions this in Baburnama.

Three Gates of Chanderi Fort

Along the 5km long fort wall there are 3 gates (darwaza) which were built for protection from invading armies.

Khooni Darwaza is the main gate to the fort. The name translates to Bloody or Murderous gate. As the name implies this was one spot where criminal, traitors were murdered. They would bleed to death when thrown at the spiked gates as punishment.

Hawa Paur is the highest gate of Chanderi Fort.

Kati Ghati, which is to the south of Chanderi Fort has an interesting tale. This gate was cut out of a single rock and the architect who designed the gate proudly showed it to the king.  The gate has dimensions of 59m length, 12m breadth and 24.6m height.

However the King found fault with it saying there is no provision for hinges in this structure to fix a door. How can this gate protect Chanderi?

Realizing his blunder the architect excused himself from the gathering and committed suicide. You can see a tomb nearby which is his resting place.

Kati Ghati Chanderi Madhya Pradesh Best things to do

Jauhar Memorial of Chanderi

One of the saddest places I have been to is the Jauhar Monument of Chanderi. It is a spine chilling spot in Chanderi Fort Complex. The memorial is a very small monument, a slab of stone with the story of brave women of Chanderi etched on it.

This stone depicting jauhar scene was erected here under a canopy long after the incident took place. Rajput women of Chanderi chose self immolation (jauhar) over capture by the invading army. It is said King Medini Rai, their most powerful warrior, died fighting against the Mughal army.

Babur, the Mughal invader of India, had written –

Women committed suicide (jauhar) before we came. Men advanced towards my army but they were na ked.

It is understood that since the attack was sudden they couldn’t collect enough wood to burn women so they shed their clothes to speed up the burning of these women.

When I arrived, Chanderi Fort was on fire. I looked up to see the non warrior men willingly getting beheaded by jallad. I did not kill anyone. They all killed themselves!

This incident had wiped off all Hindu and Jain residents of this place. The above part was narrated to us by our guide. The whole group went numb in silence listening to him.

Do read: Jauhar Smarak of Chanderi

Baiju’s Samadhi

Close to Jauhar Smarak there is the Samadhi (memorial) of Baiju Bawra, a great musician. He is famous for having defeated Tansen, another great musician, in a music contest in Emperor Akbar’s court.

Baiju Nath Prasad, his actual name, of Chanderi was a reputed Dhrupad singer and was associated to the court of Raja Man Singh of Gwalior.

Popular belief here is that couples write their names on the leaves of cacti growing here to remain united forever!

Archaeological Museum Chanderi

One of the best museums, this Archaeological Museum is a must visit in Chanderi. It is well maintained and most important well stuffed with some real rare artifacts. Guide Muzaffar Ansari gave such detailed explanations of the displays there; it made our trip a good learning experience.

There are different sections displaying Jain history, Hindu mythology, depictions of Stone Age era, old coins and arms. The displays have small boards with explanations.

Tickets – 5INR for adults, unbelievable but true!

Badal Mahal Darwaza

In India there are ruins with doors and there are ruins without doors!

Badal Mahal Darwaza is a door in such a site where the palace is completely gone. Thanks to the underground palace rooms, there is some evidence left of how grand the structure must have been. One can only imagine!

This platform like place was the stage where royal guests were welcomed with cultural performances. The mahal (palace) here was built so tall that it is believed during rains the clouds swept past it. Hence it got the name badal, meaning clouds.

The underground rooms were excavated in 2005. Lots of work is pending for complete restoration of this place.

Badal Mahal Darwaza Chanderi Madhya Pradesh Things to Do

Jama Masjid of Chanderi

This is the second mosque I visited in Madhya Pradesh; the first one was Tajul Masajid in Bhopal. Jama Masjid was built when Chanderi came under the rule of the Delhi Sultanate under Ghiasuddin Balban.

A classic example of Islamic architecture in India, this was the oldest and biggest mosque of Bundelkhand. Today it has the same position in Chanderi, in terms of dimensions.

Highlights of Jama Masjid Chanderi

• 3 perfect domes outline the structure.
• There is just a single large tree the shade of it covering almost the entire area.
• It can accommodate around 2000 people.
• One architectural highlight here is the convoluted brackets. These are abstractions of regional temple architecture.
• Another specialty is that this is the only mosque in India with no minars.

Handloom Park Chanderi

This is Asia’s first handloom centre has works of 23 top designers of international repute and around 400 traditional weavers. It is an amazing place showcasing the process and skills involved in weaving by local.

One of the weavers I talked to said due to this assured income and employment the younger generation will be more confident to pick weaving as a profession for living.

Weaving of Chanderi is a living heritage which must be preserved!

Handloom Park Chanderi Madhya Pradesh

Places to stay in Chanderi

For lunch we halted at Kila Kothi. Location is amazing. It is just behind the Chanderi fort and offers picturesque top view of Chanderi town. If you are craving for royal hospitality this is the perfect place to stay.

Till some years back this was owned by the Scindia family. It was then a state Guest house for a short while. Bollywood actress Anoushka Sharma inaugurated this as a hotel. It is now owned by MP Tourism.

How to Reach Chanderi

Chanderi doesn’t have airport of its own. Nearest airport to Chanderi is at Bhopal at 220km. Gwalior and Khajuraho airport are at distance of 250km.

The nearest railway station Lalitpur is 2 hour drive from Chanderi and all the major trains stop at Lalitpur.

Chanderi is well connected by roads. We did a road trip to Chanderi from Sanchi and then proceeded to Orchha.

Recently the town got more exposure for the successful Bollywood movies shot here – Stree and Sui Dhaaga.

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