Coracle Rides in Hampi, across Tungabhadra River

Have you ever done anything in life on an impulse, without thinking much, on the spur of a moment? I have!

It was during a coracle ride on Tungabhadra River in Hampi. It was Christmas eve of 2010. We were holidaying in Hampi and that afternoon we were strolling along the banks of the river when we were approached by this coracle owner who offered to take us on a half an hour ride for a very nominal amount.

(The coracle is a small, lightweight boat oval in shape and very similar to half a walnut shell, the structure is made of a framework of split and interwoven willow rods, tied with willow bark.)

Coracle Ride in Tungabhadra River

The weather was fine, water looked calm and inviting, it was very normal that we followed him to his coracle. What happened after this was not so normal though.

As we were boating, we found so many people bathing in the river. Now this was something I had not done for a very very long time. I had this sudden urge to get off from the oracle and bathe in the river. I simply followed the call of my inner urge and soon found myself splashing around in the cool waters of Tungabhadra River.

An alive is awesome moment of my life, I was glad I did it. Took one dip, submerged myself completely under water for some time. Came out then took one more dip… it was exhilarating, rejuvenating and enriching experience, something I will cherish for long.

Often it is simple pleasures like this that fills your heart with a sense of content feeling. I returned back to hotel room in drenched clothes with memories of this unique bathing experience.

Coracle Ride in Tungabhadra River Hampi

If you have not done any activity on an impulse, which you secretly desire to do then it is time you build up courage, let go of inhibitions and soak in the experience you want to. It is no point regretting when the opportunity has passed. I have done it and you can too!

Coracle Ride in Tungabhadra River Price: You can take coracle ride at as low as 50INR per hour to 2000INR, sometimes even more. Remember to negotiate the price if you fee their rates are high.

Coracle Racing in Cauvery River

As I was writing about Coracle Ride in Hampi in Tungabhadra River, I am reminded of a thrilling and exciting coracle racing experience in Cauvery River. Here it is:

A year and half back we and our friends (a family of four) made a trip to a riverside camp. None of us wanted to sit and while away the time. We desperately wanted some group activity which would involve all of us, have some fun and also spend some time. There were a row of coracles on the riverside and we decided to go for a coracle ride in the river. The river looked calm, but had a steady flow of water; so rowing the coracles was quite an effort.

Just as we settled in the coracles after leaving the bank, one of us suggested we have a race; “who would reach the other bank first”! That challenge suited the mood, atmosphere and the ambiance there then. All of us gleefully agreed to the challenge. The coracle man (boatman) was bribed to win the race and was promised more.

Coracles on Riverside

Coracles on Riverside

The race started and it was fun right from there. Our children were squealing with excitement, cheering and booing… for some stretch our coracle overtook the other and then due force of water it flowed along with water downstream… meanwhile the other coracle overtook. (I suspected the coracle men doing it deliberately to keep the game going).

Almost around half the distance was left when suddenly one of the ‘coracle man’ said sternly we have to return, he signaled the other coracle man to get back. Initially we couldn’t understand what the matter was, and then he pointed out a crocodile to us at a distance. The distance was such that if the crocodile decides to swim towards us it could get to us before we could get back to bank.

Crocodile in Cauvery river

Now this was the true challenge! We were totally dependent on the coracle men. First and foremost he instructed us to be silent. Immediately all screams of delight became muffled voices of fright. The crocodile didn’t move from its place. Luckily it occurred to me to take a shot of it. Within minutes we were back safe, after alighting in full speed we turned back to see that scary reptile. The crocodile was still at the same spot, motionless!

It took all of us some time to get back to our normal self! But we learnt a lesson: While we relish a challenge we must take care not to cross limits of safety!

Caution:

  • Never take coracle rides during monsoons, the official rainy season of India.
  • Never go deep into crocodile infested rivers in a coracle, crocodiles find it is easy to upturn them.
  • Don’t hire one without lifejackets.

Coracle Rides in Hampi across Tungabhadra River will continue.

Reading the fresh newspaper in the morning is rarely a pleasant experience these days. On 23rd Jan, the newspaper headlines read thus: Bridge at Hampi collapses, six feared dead. Just a month back we were there at Hampi, one of the World Heritage Centers in Karnataka. We were on the banks of Tungabhadra River to take a coracle ride to Anegundi, another historical place.

Coracle rides in Hampi

Coracle Rides in Hampi – These pictures were taken on 23rd Dec, 2008.

Coracle transporting bikes

Coracle transporting bikes

We saw work was in full swing to complete the bridge. It was interesting watching people with two wheeler crossing the river on a coracle, the bikes, their owners all. Talking to the coracle operators we could sense their concern about their means of livelihood once the bridge construction is complete. Some of the coracle owners for generations have been doing only this, ferrying people across. They know no other vocation.

Objections to building bridge over Tungabhadra River

The UNESCO had strong objections to the construction of this bridge as this modern structure would be an eyesore to the World Heritage Site. Additionally bridging the two places would also increase the vehicular traffic which could result in slow damage of the monuments. The construction of the bridge was suspended for nine years. However work commenced in Nov 2008.

People watch the hanging bridge under construction that collapsed at Anegundi near Hospet on Thursday. Over 20 workers injured and many were missing.–KPN The bridge on 22d Jan, 2009.

On 22nd Jan, as the concrete was being laid in the middle portion of the bridge, it collapsed dragging in few of the workers. Everything was over in seconds.” While I was there it never occurred to me to take a complete photograph of the bridge, never imagined such a tragedy would take place within a month.

My 12 year old, shocked on reading the news item asked me, “What if the accident had happened a month back?” I could just give her a hug.

“Our pleasures were simple-they included survival.”
Dwight David Eisenhower

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35 Responses to “Coracle Rides in Hampi, across Tungabhadra River

  • This looks great. i love taking small trips to the river every now and then. till now, I have only been on a boat and a cruise liner . this looks fun maybe a little dangerous if one is to try it without help on the first g. But definitely worth trying.

  • sad 🙁 when I went to hampi many years ago, we actually climbed the rocks after the coracle ride to reach the other side

  • Whew… that was a close call.
    Dwight David Eisenhower – quote was so appropriate.

  • Really bad!! We had been to Hampi too but a few years back. Unfortunately we couldnt visit Anegundi. But went for a coracle ride…And the guy who was handling the coracle made this fast spins in the water. It was thrilling.

    Why do we need a bridge when there ate coracles to ferry us across? I would anyday prefer a coracle ride to travelling over the bridge.

  • That is truly sad for me…

  • How sad…it’s one of those reflective moments…makes it very real to have been there! I hope they can rebuild…within themselves and that it will work out for the best (bridge or not).

  • Quite an unfortunate incident !

  • I’m sorry to read of the loss of life. Thou it seems as if the right thing occured when the bridge collapsed. The coracle is an amazingly strong, small hand-crafted boat to carry three people and two bikes. May the people be allowed to decide.

  • Perhaps God did not want the bridge there either.
    Lovely shots and the coracle is beautify.

  • Oh my, what a bad accident! I think it would be better for the community as well just to keep the local boats, but sometimes, mankind is too stressed to make everything “bigger and better”.

  • that is a horrible tragedy.
    and i find it very interesting to see people taking risks transporting their rides on a coracle.

  • Sorry for the sad disaster. Very interesting to see the coracle transport both humans and machines. It looked like a giant basket to me. Cool.

  • What a terrible tragedy! I’ve never seen anything like those boats either. Thanks for sharing with us. And thanks for stopping by my blog too.
    http://susieofarabia.wordpress.com/

  • Wow, there’s something eerie when a place You just visited suffers from some disaster.

  • wonder what its fate will be now!

  • Very well written piece,supported by good pictures.

  • Very well written piece,supported by good pictures.

  • The building of this bridge should never have been started! Too dangerous and too ugly. The coracles are very interesting.

  • Oh my gosh! Sorry to hear that lives were lost in this tragedy.

    I find the coracle interesting. It resembles a huge basket. I would like a ride in that.

  • Your posts are always so interesting and show the big differences in our worlds.

  • Pass on my hug to her as well :). I love coracle rides, though they can be scary… But what’s a dumping or two to someone who has been on a fortnight-long rafting expedition on the Brahmaputra without knowing swimming? 🙂
    Just imagine the strength of the coracles – and to think that they are hand-made! I’m proud of them.

  • Saad..I recall taking a coracle ride near Hampi, do not recall seeing this Bridge though.

  • The motorcycles on the coracle is quite funny mix of ancient and new. Sorry about the bridge.

  • Wow. That is an incredible story. Very sad.

  • How sad when something like that happens. It must touch you a lot deeper for having been there.

  • Sorry to hear about the loss, great shots however, thanks for sharing.

    Cheers!
    Regina In Pictures

  • George has a point.

    Couple of months ago, a flyover hat was being constructed in Delhi collapse. And there have been other instances too.

    And you are right , Indrani; news in the daily newspaper amounts to a rollcall of catastrophes.

  • How terrible. That’s what happens when progress is forced and people don’t really feel like doing what they are made to do.

  • I am so sorry to hear about the collapse. That is so bad that lives were lost.

  • Very interesting post. Perhaps the old way of getting across the river is the best after all. Sometimes progress really isn’t progress.

  • Sorry to hear of the loss of the workers killed in the accident. My condolences to their families. Makes me wonder if that bridge was supposed to be built at all! Sounds like there were several good arguments against it in the first place!

    This reminds me of Thanksgiving weekend, 1988 in a way. My brother and I had gone out shopping on Saturday, and one of the places we went to was completely destroyed by a tornado in the early hours of Monday morning. Remarkably, even though the string of tornadoes struck in the dead of night when most people were sleeping and completely by surprise (late November is well past the usual season for tornadoes!), only 4 people were killed.

    Best to you and yours on this Republic Day!

  • i love the shots. great job.

    kung hei fat choi. (happy new year in chinese)

  • nice pics.this place was also seen in roadies 5.0

  • Some maintenance is needed… We also had one accident some years ago with a bridge collapsing in the middle of the night; it was a nightmare…
    Have a great week!
    Blogtrotter, with some new posts for you!

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