Sad state of Baphuon Temple – Angkor Temple Trail – Cambodia
Continuing my Angkor Temple Trail… I have now arrived at Baphuon Temple which is at walking distance of 250 to 300m from Bayon Temple.
Unfortunately for Baphuon Temple, it is reputed to be the most poorly constructed temple. Therefore it receives lesser tourist footfalls compared to the other temples of Angkor.
Baphuon Temple is ignored by many visitors especially by the 3 days and 1 day ticket holders. The imposing exteriors conceal the crumbling ruins in the interiors well. I found it hard to ignore the majestic pyramid like structure.
A long causeway leads to the temple. You can see locals busy in the moat searching for what I don’t know.
Baphuon Temple all 5 levels visible
History of Baphuon Temple
King Udayadityarvarman II built this temple in 1060AD in dedication to Lord Shiva. It was the state temple of Yasodharapura, the kingdom that existed then. The enormous size makes it look like a temple mountain. Much of it has collapsed.
Quoting the Chinese diplomat here: North of the Golden Tower (Bayon) at a distance of about 200 yards, rises the tower of Bronze, higher than the Golden Tower, a truly astonishing spectacle, with more than 10 chambers at its base.
Records state that in 15th century this Hindu Temple was converted to Buddhist Temple. A reclining Buddha, measuring 9m by 70m, was built in the west side of the main temple. They used bricks from the bronze tower and also from the galleries. This is one reason for the ruinous state of the temple.
However since the foundation of this huge temple was weak, it couldn’t sustain the enormous weight of Buddha statue. It was a matter of time when the entire structure collapsed. You can hardly see anything of it.
The French tried to restore the temple. But due to civil war in 1970 they had to abandon the project.
Picture of Baphuon Temple at second enclosure
Baphuon Temple Architecture
Baphuon Temple is a symbolic representation of Mount Meru, abode of Lord Shiva. A wall measuring 425m by 125m encloses this temple.
Towards the east is the long causeway, 200m, which forms the main bridge to the temple. It is visible in the pictures here. This causeway is supported by 3 rows of short round columns. The cross shaped pavilion midway was probably the outer gopura of the temple.
There are 5 levels of this huge mountain temple, the highest level being at 24m above ground level. 3 concentric galleries at 1st, 3rd and 5th levels distinguish the 3 inner enclosures.
Each of the galleries had gopuras at the cardinal points, sadly some of them don’t exist anymore. The stones from here used for other constructions.
1st row – L to R – uncovered gallery in 4th level, local working in the moat, uncovered gallery 2nd row – L to R – 4th level, view from summit, view from 2nd level 3rd row – L to R – monks in Baphuon Temple, gallery, central pyramid
The central pavilion has some interesting panels. At the end of the causeway, there are steps that lead to gopura of second enclosure. This is the most elaborate one with widely spaced entrances and some carvings in good condition.
You can take a walk around the pyramid in this 2nd enclosure. There are covered libraries to the right and left of the gopura.
We took refuge in these libraries of yesteryear when there was a sudden heavy downpour.
Access to Baphuon Temple top
There are steep steps at the south gopura, they have laid wooden stairs thanks to that we tourists can get to the 3rd enclosure. A covered gallery runs all around. The windows make good subject for photography from base.
Carvings on outer wall of Baphuon Temple
Another set of stairs and you are on to the 4th enclosure. The sight of the pyramid here was shocking. Almost nothing remains. It looked like a pile of stacked bricks. Only the tower at the top in the misty air looked magical.
There are steps leading to that tower which is the 5th enclosure. Probably as a precaution it is out of bounds. One can well imagine the chaos if all tourists are allowed to climb those steps to top.
Open galleries in 4th enclosure of Baphuon Temple
This 4th enclosure has couple of gopuras and open galleries running all around the pyramid. You get excellent view of the scene below from here. Check out this small video of view from Baphuon Temple top for 1 minute. Slightly shaky, sorry for that. (You can pause and see the different scenes if time permits.)
Travel Tips for Baphuon Temple
- Tour time is 1 hour approx.
- Early morning visit can provide you with good photo opportunity.
- Always take the wooden staircase provided, the old stone staircase are completely worn off.
- Not wise to include in 1 day or 3 days ticket. But definitely to be included in 7 days ticket.
- Must not miss the view from summit of Baphuon Temple Angkor Temple Trail.
New Price of Tickets for Visit to Angkor Temples from 1st February 2017.
This is actually one of my fave temples in the Angkor complex. It’s sad that not a lot of people appreciate its beauty. We stayed there for 30 min just walking around and exploring the grounds.
The Baphuon Temple still looks amazing. I know it is really sad when you see a historical site which backs to 1000 years ago is disappearing. I hope the government starts thinking about it and find the solution.
You are so right. It pains the heart to see architectural marvels like these in a state of disrepair. I wonder whether tourist influx is adding to the mess or contributing for its upkeep. I can imagine the scale and grandeur of the original structure.
Never heard of this one. In absolute terms, the remains and architecture of Baphuon Temple looks impressive and worthy of a visit. But I would be templed-out after 2 days I think so not sure what to fit in and what to leave out in that time-frame.
It’s such a shame that the foundations of the Baphuon Temple are weak and that parts have collapsed. It is a beautiful structure and I appreciate getting to see the detail through your photos. There are so many amazing temples in Angkor to see, no wonder some are missed. If I ever have the chance to visit, I would go for the 7-day pass, so that I could see as many temples as possible, including the Baphuon Temple!
The Baphuon Temple looks stunning! I can’t believe I haven’t heard of it before. It’s too bad the pyramid didn’t remain intact thought!
I have never heard of Baphuon Temple but love off the beaten track type finds that most tourists skip! Its pyramid shape would be so much fun to photograph! I will be including it in my 7 day itinerary for sure!
Can we change the name of Cambodia to temple heaven. It amazes me how much time and effort the early civilizations in Cambodia spent building these temples. They are all works of art. Is the prices listed in USD or Cambodian?
While I’ve been to the Angkor temples, I can’t say I visited this one which just adds to its charm I think. As an early riser, it would be amazing to wander around with barely anyone else there.
Oh they have increased the price! From $20- $37? Really! Wow! I went there in August I think 2 years ago tho! haha And yes I agree, when you visit early, you’ll have an opportunity to take nicer photos are there are no photobombers! I miss Cambodia!
You say that much of it has collapsed. I wonder how high it was originally…maybe it had a stepped roof, similar to the pyramidal structure, as we see in many South Indian temples. Extensive detail in carvings and structure.
I visited this temple! And yes, like you said it wasn’t as busy as some of the other temples in the area. I found it really fascinating though and loved the architecture. And the views from the top are really nice too.
Although crumbling, that is a really beautiful temple. You’ve captured it well in these photographs. Thank you for sharing a bit of its history and tips for seeing it! 🙂
This is the first time I am reading about Baphuon Temple and I must say the temple look is really impressive. The story behind the temple and how it turned into ruins is interesting too. Loved your pictures.
It is pretty sad to see the state in which this temple is. Your description and pictures definitely add so much intrigue to it. I would have loved to climb even that 4th enclosure but well, I quite understand which this is closed. I hope that I can see it for myself some day.
I have not seen a more detailed article on Baphuon Temple in Angkor Wat Complex. We did not go right upto the top 🙁 I had not heard of this statue of reclining Buddha before too. But there is a huge reclining buddha carved out on the boulders of the outer square. If you see it from an angle it is visible (whatever is left of it) covering almost whole of the wall.
The Baphuon temple which stands in ruins today still seems to retain a part of its grand aura. What a pity that faulty construction has led to the collapse of this magnificent structure. The picture of the pyramid of which only bricks remain is so poignant. Amidst the ruins stand the two rectangular gates as if in silent appreciation of the once grand structure.
Baphuon Temple is such a beautiful temple! It’s so interesting to read the history about it – I always think that makes a place more fascinating to explore. I wouldn’t have thought the French tried to restore it.
I appreciate you visited one of the lesser known temples. I found even the three day pass impossible to take in all the temples — and also it was easy to get a little bit of Temple fatigue and digest so much information from the guides. This one is very interesting, and you captured some of the details of the carvings and design (even though it’s not the prettiest) Boy the prices have really skyrocketed! I visited there almost 14 years ago!
Really been enjoying your trail of the Angkor temples. I had not read about Baphuon Temple before, but it’s interesting to know it receives far less tourist visitors, already something which gives it some extra appeal! And also appreciate understanding the symbolism, of Lord Shiva’s Mount Meru home.
What an interesting temple to visit! Too bad about the temple being poorly constructed. Personally, I find the temple charming and mysterious despite its reputation. The lesser the tourist, the better I guess in keeping the structure in-tact and protected from the swarm of tourists.
The architecture of the temple is wonderful, which makes me surprised that how they used to make such complicated designs those days?
Captures are fantastic as usual.
fabulous location thanks for sharing a religious post
The ruins speak of how majestic the structure might have bee even though it is supposed to be the most poorly constructed temples by the Angkor standards.
These temples intrigue me, even if they are in ruins! I find it funny that those stairs are built there (and closed off). As if that was a good idea? We definitely need to protect our culture…
The temple still looks great but I do hope the government will do something to ensure this is fully restored and that we wont lose such beautiful structure (with great culture) soon.
Interesting historical bit of Baphuon Temple there. The temple has this allure of mysticism and evokes memories of years gone by. Amazing architecture but unfortunately the structure was poorly built, I hope conservation projects are being undertaken to preserve this temple for the future generations.
I am always intrigued by the temples here. I can’t believe just how old it is and how much detail still remains.
I hadn’t heard of Bahpuon Temple until now. Certainly looks interesting, something I would like to visit when in Cambodia.
I have a very distinctive memory of climbing those stairs when I visited Angkor five years ago. I was trying to cover the area by bicycle, without a guide, and totally lost track of which temple was which. So interesting to read now that this one was a symbol of Mt. Meru. I can definitely believe that after climbing all the stairs in the hot-season temperatures!
I am intrigued by the Angkor temples, and this is just another reason why. I can’t believe King Udayadityarvarman II built Baphuon Temple in 1060AD. Great tip to visit early for the best photo opportunities. Judging from your video, it’s definitely worth going to the top.
I remember visiting this temple over 20 years ago and it was deteriorating badly, so I’m glad they have stairs that are protecting the most fragile parts especially when tourists used to just climb anywhere with no restrictions in the past.
Baphuon Temple seems amazing! It’s unfortunate not many people visit it. Love all the panels and the detailed carvings! It’s great that you provided a video and even travel tips like how long to spend there and costs. Great and thorough post!
Cambodia is on my bucket list as I love visiting historical monuments. It is sad when they are not well-maintained though. I hope that they can do something about it soon.
Sometimes , it looks very disgusting that we Hindus were present there with our rich culture and structures but now …… . I am getting very detailed information about Combodia through your blog. Thnx for your sharing
Beautiful photos. There’s really beauty in ruins and even if I’ve seen many ruins already, Baphuon Temple is really one of the best. I am so amazed how something can still have parts of it left even after a millennium!
I like that Baphuon Temple isn’t visited as much. That means you have it all to yourself! How crazy that it was built over 1,000 years ago and is still standing.
Thank you for sharing this interesting story of Baphuon Temple- Ankor Temple Trail. For me it is still a beautiful piece of architecture, it is sad that it is not well restored and some of the walls collapsed. I am really amazed with the 5 levels of the temple that are very visible on the picture an the beautiful outer carvings. I really love looking at the pictures.
I love your candor and recommendations. I am always excited to visit any temple, but there are so many and Angkor it’s hard to prioritize. Your honesty and clear writing really helps me plan my travels.
We visited this temple a few years ago and agree it’s in quite a bit of disrepair…but still so very much fun to wander around and absorb the history surrounding us. Beautiful pictures – thank you for sharing!
Amazing structures!!! The architectural details are really fascinating! They look like scenes from Rakshasa Street! Love them!!!! Price increase is just a bit too much.
Bahpuon Temple looks very cool. It’s interesting to read the story behind it – about why the temple is in such a ruinous state. I can’t believe that it collapsed in the attempt to convert it into a Buddhist temple and placing a heavy reclining Buddha statue. It would’ve been a gorgeous building before then. Such a pity that the French also didn’t restore the building. I am not a religious person but historical temples interest me. I need to get myself to Angkor Wat for exactly that reason.
Wonderful temple. Very informative post.
Amazing Photos.
Baphuon Temple still looks impressive for something that was first built nearly 1000 years ago. The number of temples you can now access in Cambodia is amazing.
That’s quite some price rise! I love the intricate stonework around the windows of the Temple. It’s sad that it is a little neglected – though I suspect that makes it quite charming for those who do visit.