Sad state of Baphuon Temple – Angkor Temple Trail – Cambodia
Continuing my Angkor Temple Trail… I have now arrived at Baphuon Temple which is at walking distance of 250 m to 300 m from Bayon Temple.
Baphuon Temple, despite its prominent place within the Angkor complex, is often overshadowed by Angkor Wat and Bayon Temple. We were in two minds whether to make the visit to Baphuon Temple. Reputed as one of the most poorly constructed temples, Baphuon has experienced a fair share of structural challenges over the centuries. Its hurried construction in the 11th century resulted in a less stable foundation, making it prone to deterioration. Consequently, it doesn’t receive the same level of foot traffic as the more famous temples, especially from visitors on shorter, 1-day or 3-day temple passes.
Baphuon Temple all 5 levels visible
We were keen to explore beyond the iconic sights of Angkor Wat. Baphuon rewarded with a quiet mystique and impressive design. Its grand, pyramid-like structure mirrors Mount Meru, the spiritual center in Hindu mythology. Approaching the temple, a long sandstone causeway stretches before you, guiding visitors over a shallow moat and through the remnants of history. We saw locals busying themselves by the water’s edge, fishing or gathering resources as their ancestors likely did centuries ago.
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Baphuon Temple History
Baphuon Temple, completed around 1060 AD by King Udayadityavarman II, was originally a grand Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. At the time, it served as the state temple of Yasodharapura, the capital city of the Khmer Empire. Its scale was monumental, designed to resemble a temple mountain symbolizing Mount Meru, the centre of the universe in Hindu cosmology. Yet, much of this once-majestic temple has since fallen into ruin, owing to structural flaws and later modifications.
A 13th-century account by Zhou Daguan, a Chinese diplomat, marvels at Baphuon’s grandeur:
“North of the Golden Tower (Bayon), at a distance of about 200 yards, rises the Tower of Bronze, higher than the Golden Tower, a truly astonishing spectacle, with more than 10 chambers at its base.”
His description paints a picture of a soaring, bronze-coloured tower and a structure filled with chambers—a testament to its once-mighty presence.
The temple’s fate took a significant turn in the 15th century when it was converted into a Buddhist temple. A reclining Buddha, 9 m in height and 70 m long, was constructed on the west side, partially dismantling sections of the original structure for materials. Stones from Baphuon’s upper galleries and the main tower were repurposed to create this Buddha figure, contributing to the temple’s gradual structural decay.
Picture of Baphuon Temple at second enclosure
The foundation of Baphuon had always been a weak point, and the additional weight from the massive Buddha statue hastened the temple’s decline. Eventually, much of it collapsed, leaving only traces of the Buddha figure. The temple became known for its ruinous state—a once-great marvel, worn by time and its own construction flaws.
In the 20th century, the French began a challenging restoration project using anastylosis, a meticulous method of reconstructing structures from scattered stones. Their efforts, however, were interrupted by civil war in Cambodia in the 1970s. When the project resumed years later, the team faced the daunting task of reassembling thousands of stones that had been left behind without proper documentation.
The restoration project, often dubbed the world’s largest 3D puzzle, was eventually completed in 2011 after decades of work. Today, Baphuon stands as a testament to both ancient Khmer architecture and modern preservation efforts, inviting visitors to witness the remnants of its grandeur and the intricate beauty of its carvings.
Baphuon Temple Architecture
This grand structure of Baphuon Temple represents Mount Meru, the mythical abode of Lord Shiva, towering within a walled enclosure that stretches 425 m by 125 m. It’s as if the temple itself is carved into the spirit of the earth, rising to embody the cosmos.
We took the approach from the east that led us to the 200m causeway stretching toward the temple’s entrance—a bridge that not only connects ground to sanctum but also feels like a pathway between worlds. Supported by three rows of short, round columns, the causeway seems almost to float, leading to a cross-shaped pavilion midway, which I imagine once served as the temple’s outer gopura, or gateway. The pavilion offers a slight pause along the path, allowing visitors to take in the journey before fully entering the temple’s space.
Baphuon stands as a massive five-level pyramid, each tier rising like steps toward the heavens, with the highest level reaching 24 m above ground. The layout is carefully organized into three concentric galleries at the 1st, 3rd, and 5th levels, marking out three inner enclosures. These layers, I learned, represent different realms, each bringing the devotees closer to the divine.
The galleries once had gopuras at each cardinal point, though many of these entrance towers have not survived. Stones from these structures were removed long ago to construct other parts of the temple or even repurposed for later additions, leaving gaps that echo with a sense of history lost. Despite this, the central pavilion still reveals intricate carvings and decorative panels, capturing scenes that give life to the otherwise solemn stone walls.
At the end of the causeway, I stumbled on steps leading up to the gopura of the second enclosure. This part of the temple is particularly striking, with wide entrances and carvings that have somehow withstood centuries of weather and neglect. I took my time to explore this area, taking in the details that remain—an elegant lintel here, an ornate pillar there—fragments of artistry that have stood the test of time.
Circling around the temple’s pyramid within the second enclosure, I noticed two covered structures to either side of the gopura, once libraries filled with sacred texts and relics. These spaces felt imbued with a quiet reverence, as though they still held echoes of the knowledge they once housed. During my visit, the sky suddenly darkened, and a heavy rain began to pour. We took refuge in one of these ancient libraries, huddling beneath its weathered roof as the rain hammered down. There was something surreal about seeking shelter in a space where people have gathered for centuries, almost as if we had slipped into another era.
Baphuon’s architecture is both imposing and inviting, and it reveals itself in layers—much like the history of Angkor itself. While many elements have faded with time, the spirit of the temple endures, captivating those who venture through its gates.
1st row – L to R – uncovered gallery in 4th level, local working in the moat, uncovered gallery 2nd row – L to R – 4th level, view from summit, view from 2nd level 3rd row – L to R – monks in Baphuon Temple, gallery, central pyramid
Access to Baphuon Temple’s Top
Climbing to the upper levels of Baphuon Temple, a tall tiered temple, is an experience both exhilarating and humbling. Access begins at the south gopura, where steep steps have been reinforced with wooden stairs. Thanks to these supportive additions, visitors like us can safely ascend to the third enclosure and explore this layer of history up close. The enclosure is lined with a covered gallery that circles the entire structure, its windows framing beautiful scenes of the surrounding temple grounds—a photographer’s delight from the base to the top.
Carvings on outer wall of Baphuon Temple
Continuing the climb, another set of stairs leads to the fourth enclosure. Here, the pyramid’s original structure becomes visible, albeit in a state of haunting disrepair. It was shocking to see how little remains; from this level, the structure resembles a stacked pile of weathered bricks, marking the passage of time. Yet, high above, the tower at the summit looms mysteriously through the mist, its presence lending a magical aura to the ruins below.
Steps leading up to this topmost tower, the fifth enclosure, are closed off, likely for preservation and safety. It’s easy to imagine the potential chaos if every visitor were allowed to scale these ancient, narrow steps. Still, standing on the fourth enclosure provides an extraordinary vantage point: open galleries and gopuras surround the pyramid on this level, creating an ideal platform for taking in panoramic views of Baphuon and the surrounding forested landscape.
Here’s a quick video clip I captured from this spot, overlooking the scenes below. (It may be a bit shaky—pause to catch a few of the serene views that reveal the temple’s breathtaking elevation and structure if you have a moment!)
Travel Tips for Baphuon Temple
- Tour time is 1 hour approx.
- Early morning visit can provide you with good photo opportunity.
- Always take the wooden staircase provided, the old stone staircase are completely worn off.
- Not wise to include in 1 day or 3 days ticket. But definitely to be included in 7 days ticket.
- Must not miss the view from summit of Baphuon Temple Angkor Temple Trail.
Guide to reach Baphuon Temple
Here’s a quick guide to reach Baphuon Temple in the Angkor Archaeological Park near Siem Reap:
Starting Point: Siem Reap, about 7 km from the Angkor complex, is the nearest city and the primary gateway to Angkor’s temples. You can stay in Siem Reap and take a day trip to Angkor, which includes Baphuon Temple.
Getting to Angkor Archaeological Park
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- By Tuk-Tuk: Tuk-tuks are a popular option for getting to Angkor and moving between temples. You can hire a tuk-tuk for the entire day in Siem Reap, and drivers typically have set rates for temple circuits. This is a convenient and affordable way to explore multiple sites.
- By Bicycle: Another option is renting a bicycle in Siem Reap is a great option. The journey from the city to Angkor is roughly 30- to 45-minute ride to reach the main entrance.
- By Car: Private cars or taxis are available for hire in Siem Reap and offer a comfortable and air-conditioned ride through the park. This is ideal if you’re planning a more extensive tour or visiting during the hotter parts of the year.
Navigating the Angkor Complex – The Angkor complex is vast, so planning a route is essential. Baphuon Temple is located within the Angkor Thom area, just north of the Bayon Temple. Most visitors follow either the Small Circuit or Grand Circuit routes, and both typically include a stop at Angkor Thom, where Baphuon is situated.
Entry Pass
You’ll need an Angkor Pass to enter the Archaeological Park. The options include:
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- 1-Day Pass ($37 USD)
- 3-Day Pass ($62 USD)
- 7-Day Pass ($72 USD)
The passes can be purchased at the Angkor Ticket Office, which is open daily from 4:30 AM to 5:30 PM.
Reaching Baphuon Temple Inside Angkor Thom – Once inside Angkor Thom, Baphuon Temple is a short walk from the iconic Bayon Temple, about 200 meters to the north. It’s best to visit in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday crowds and heat.
Open galleries in 4th enclosure of Baphuon Temple
FAQ: Visiting Baphuon Temple in Angkor, Siem Reap
Where is Baphuon Temple located within Angkor?
Baphuon Temple is situated in the Angkor Thom complex, just north of the famous Bayon Temple. It’s easily accessible by following the main roads within the park, and many visitors include it on both the Small Circuit and Grand Circuit temple routes.
What makes Baphuon Temple unique compared to other temples in Angkor?
Baphuon Temple is a stunning example of “temple mountain” architecture, representing Mount Meru, and is known as “a tall tiered temple.” Its intricate galleries, extensive causeway, and a partially restored reclining Buddha make it a fascinating historical site. Unlike Angkor Wat, it’s often quieter, providing a more serene experience.
How difficult is the climb to the top of Baphuon Temple?
The ascent to Baphuon’s third and fourth enclosures is moderately challenging, with steep staircases (some of which have added wooden stairs for support). However, the topmost fifth enclosure is restricted to visitors due to safety concerns. Visitors should wear comfortable shoes and be prepared for a bit of a workout!
Are there any photography tips for Baphuon Temple?
The covered gallery on the third enclosure has beautiful window openings that create excellent framing for photographs. Early morning or late afternoon light is ideal, and capturing the misty views of the top tower can lend a magical quality to your photos.
Can I see the reclining Buddha at Baphuon Temple?
Yes, though it’s partly in ruins. The reclining Buddha, built into the western side of the temple during the 15th-century conversion from Hinduism to Buddhism, is one of Baphuon’s most unique features. Its colossal size can be viewed from the lower levels and adds an impressive historic layer to the temple.
How long does it take to explore Baphuon Temple?
It will about 45 minutes to an hour exploring Baphuon Temple. Allow time to enjoy the galleries, walk the long causeway, and take in the views from the upper enclosures.
Do I need a special ticket to visit Baphuon Temple?
No special ticket is needed beyond the Angkor Pass, which grants you access to all temples in the Angkor Archaeological Park.
What is the best way to reach Baphuon Temple?
From Siem Reap, you can reach Baphuon by tuk-tuk, bicycle, or car, which takes you to the Angkor Thom area. Once in Angkor Thom, Baphuon is a short walk from Bayon Temple, making it easy to include on your itinerary.
What should I wear when visiting Baphuon Temple?
Dress modestly out of respect for the sacred site. Lightweight, breathable clothing is best, as the weather can be hot and humid. Comfortable walking shoes are essential for the uneven steps and steep climbs within the temple.
When is the best time to visit Baphuon Temple?
Early morning and late afternoon are ideal for a visit, as the lighting is beautiful, and the temperature is cooler. Visiting in the off-peak hours also means fewer crowds, allowing you to enjoy the site more peacefully.
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This is actually one of my fave temples in the Angkor complex. It’s sad that not a lot of people appreciate its beauty. We stayed there for 30 min just walking around and exploring the grounds.
The Baphuon Temple still looks amazing. I know it is really sad when you see a historical site which backs to 1000 years ago is disappearing. I hope the government starts thinking about it and find the solution.
You are so right. It pains the heart to see architectural marvels like these in a state of disrepair. I wonder whether tourist influx is adding to the mess or contributing for its upkeep. I can imagine the scale and grandeur of the original structure.
Never heard of this one. In absolute terms, the remains and architecture of Baphuon Temple looks impressive and worthy of a visit. But I would be templed-out after 2 days I think so not sure what to fit in and what to leave out in that time-frame.
It’s such a shame that the foundations of the Baphuon Temple are weak and that parts have collapsed. It is a beautiful structure and I appreciate getting to see the detail through your photos. There are so many amazing temples in Angkor to see, no wonder some are missed. If I ever have the chance to visit, I would go for the 7-day pass, so that I could see as many temples as possible, including the Baphuon Temple!
The Baphuon Temple looks stunning! I can’t believe I haven’t heard of it before. It’s too bad the pyramid didn’t remain intact thought!
I have never heard of Baphuon Temple but love off the beaten track type finds that most tourists skip! Its pyramid shape would be so much fun to photograph! I will be including it in my 7 day itinerary for sure!
Can we change the name of Cambodia to temple heaven. It amazes me how much time and effort the early civilizations in Cambodia spent building these temples. They are all works of art. Is the prices listed in USD or Cambodian?
While I’ve been to the Angkor temples, I can’t say I visited this one which just adds to its charm I think. As an early riser, it would be amazing to wander around with barely anyone else there.
Oh they have increased the price! From $20- $37? Really! Wow! I went there in August I think 2 years ago tho! haha And yes I agree, when you visit early, you’ll have an opportunity to take nicer photos are there are no photobombers! I miss Cambodia!
You say that much of it has collapsed. I wonder how high it was originally…maybe it had a stepped roof, similar to the pyramidal structure, as we see in many South Indian temples. Extensive detail in carvings and structure.
I visited this temple! And yes, like you said it wasn’t as busy as some of the other temples in the area. I found it really fascinating though and loved the architecture. And the views from the top are really nice too.
Although crumbling, that is a really beautiful temple. You’ve captured it well in these photographs. Thank you for sharing a bit of its history and tips for seeing it! 🙂
This is the first time I am reading about Baphuon Temple and I must say the temple look is really impressive. The story behind the temple and how it turned into ruins is interesting too. Loved your pictures.
It is pretty sad to see the state in which this temple is. Your description and pictures definitely add so much intrigue to it. I would have loved to climb even that 4th enclosure but well, I quite understand which this is closed. I hope that I can see it for myself some day.
I have not seen a more detailed article on Baphuon Temple in Angkor Wat Complex. We did not go right upto the top 🙁 I had not heard of this statue of reclining Buddha before too. But there is a huge reclining buddha carved out on the boulders of the outer square. If you see it from an angle it is visible (whatever is left of it) covering almost whole of the wall.
The Baphuon temple which stands in ruins today still seems to retain a part of its grand aura. What a pity that faulty construction has led to the collapse of this magnificent structure. The picture of the pyramid of which only bricks remain is so poignant. Amidst the ruins stand the two rectangular gates as if in silent appreciation of the once grand structure.
Baphuon Temple is such a beautiful temple! It’s so interesting to read the history about it – I always think that makes a place more fascinating to explore. I wouldn’t have thought the French tried to restore it.
I appreciate you visited one of the lesser known temples. I found even the three day pass impossible to take in all the temples — and also it was easy to get a little bit of Temple fatigue and digest so much information from the guides. This one is very interesting, and you captured some of the details of the carvings and design (even though it’s not the prettiest) Boy the prices have really skyrocketed! I visited there almost 14 years ago!
Really been enjoying your trail of the Angkor temples. I had not read about Baphuon Temple before, but it’s interesting to know it receives far less tourist visitors, already something which gives it some extra appeal! And also appreciate understanding the symbolism, of Lord Shiva’s Mount Meru home.
What an interesting temple to visit! Too bad about the temple being poorly constructed. Personally, I find the temple charming and mysterious despite its reputation. The lesser the tourist, the better I guess in keeping the structure in-tact and protected from the swarm of tourists.
The architecture of the temple is wonderful, which makes me surprised that how they used to make such complicated designs those days?
Captures are fantastic as usual.
fabulous location thanks for sharing a religious post
The ruins speak of how majestic the structure might have bee even though it is supposed to be the most poorly constructed temples by the Angkor standards.
These temples intrigue me, even if they are in ruins! I find it funny that those stairs are built there (and closed off). As if that was a good idea? We definitely need to protect our culture…
The temple still looks great but I do hope the government will do something to ensure this is fully restored and that we wont lose such beautiful structure (with great culture) soon.
Interesting historical bit of Baphuon Temple there. The temple has this allure of mysticism and evokes memories of years gone by. Amazing architecture but unfortunately the structure was poorly built, I hope conservation projects are being undertaken to preserve this temple for the future generations.
I am always intrigued by the temples here. I can’t believe just how old it is and how much detail still remains.
I hadn’t heard of Bahpuon Temple until now. Certainly looks interesting, something I would like to visit when in Cambodia.
I have a very distinctive memory of climbing those stairs when I visited Angkor five years ago. I was trying to cover the area by bicycle, without a guide, and totally lost track of which temple was which. So interesting to read now that this one was a symbol of Mt. Meru. I can definitely believe that after climbing all the stairs in the hot-season temperatures!
I am intrigued by the Angkor temples, and this is just another reason why. I can’t believe King Udayadityarvarman II built Baphuon Temple in 1060AD. Great tip to visit early for the best photo opportunities. Judging from your video, it’s definitely worth going to the top.
I remember visiting this temple over 20 years ago and it was deteriorating badly, so I’m glad they have stairs that are protecting the most fragile parts especially when tourists used to just climb anywhere with no restrictions in the past.
Baphuon Temple seems amazing! It’s unfortunate not many people visit it. Love all the panels and the detailed carvings! It’s great that you provided a video and even travel tips like how long to spend there and costs. Great and thorough post!
Cambodia is on my bucket list as I love visiting historical monuments. It is sad when they are not well-maintained though. I hope that they can do something about it soon.
Sometimes , it looks very disgusting that we Hindus were present there with our rich culture and structures but now …… . I am getting very detailed information about Combodia through your blog. Thnx for your sharing
Beautiful photos. There’s really beauty in ruins and even if I’ve seen many ruins already, Baphuon Temple is really one of the best. I am so amazed how something can still have parts of it left even after a millennium!
I like that Baphuon Temple isn’t visited as much. That means you have it all to yourself! How crazy that it was built over 1,000 years ago and is still standing.
Thank you for sharing this interesting story of Baphuon Temple- Ankor Temple Trail. For me it is still a beautiful piece of architecture, it is sad that it is not well restored and some of the walls collapsed. I am really amazed with the 5 levels of the temple that are very visible on the picture an the beautiful outer carvings. I really love looking at the pictures.
I love your candor and recommendations. I am always excited to visit any temple, but there are so many and Angkor it’s hard to prioritize. Your honesty and clear writing really helps me plan my travels.
We visited this temple a few years ago and agree it’s in quite a bit of disrepair…but still so very much fun to wander around and absorb the history surrounding us. Beautiful pictures – thank you for sharing!
Amazing structures!!! The architectural details are really fascinating! They look like scenes from Rakshasa Street! Love them!!!! Price increase is just a bit too much.
Bahpuon Temple looks very cool. It’s interesting to read the story behind it – about why the temple is in such a ruinous state. I can’t believe that it collapsed in the attempt to convert it into a Buddhist temple and placing a heavy reclining Buddha statue. It would’ve been a gorgeous building before then. Such a pity that the French also didn’t restore the building. I am not a religious person but historical temples interest me. I need to get myself to Angkor Wat for exactly that reason.
Wonderful temple. Very informative post.
Amazing Photos.
Baphuon Temple still looks impressive for something that was first built nearly 1000 years ago. The number of temples you can now access in Cambodia is amazing.
That’s quite some price rise! I love the intricate stonework around the windows of the Temple. It’s sad that it is a little neglected – though I suspect that makes it quite charming for those who do visit.