Enigmatic Bheruji Temple in Kodamdesar, Bikaner
Temples without roof – how many have you seen? Though I am not sure how many such temples exist in India this roofless Bheruji Temple in Kodamdesar is the second one I saw.
The first one I saw was in Shani Shingnapur in Maharashtra. It is believed Lord Shani has appeared in dreams of those devotees trying to build a roof for the idol asking them not to build one. Lord Shani is worshiped in the form of a black slab of stone. You can read more at: Shani Temple in Ahmednagar Maharashtra
Statistics state that there are 20 million Hindu Temples in India. And they vary in sizes, shapes and structures! But then who can imagine a temple missing basic structural elements like walls and roofs. And such quirky facts coupled with devotion draw me towards these temples.
Bheruji Temple Kodamdesar
History of Bheruji Temple in Bikaner
Rao Bika ji, the ruler and founder of present Bikaner built this temple in 1465AD. He wanted to expand his kingdom and build his palace around this temple. However under the guidance of his advisors then he gave up on the idea and shifted base to what is present location today.
The story of this stone idol as narrated by a pujari there is:
A devotee wished to bring Lord Bhairav’s idol to his hometown from Mandore in Jodhpur. Moved by his devotion Bhairav Nath agreed. The devotee was instructed not to place the idol on ground and if he did so he will never be able to lift the idol back.
The devotee carried the idol from Mandore. However on his way back to hometown he was tired and forgetting the instruction decided to rest for a while. He placed the idol down. That was it! He realised his folly and try as hard as he could the idol stayed rooted there.
Several years later when Rao Bika ji arrived in Janglabad (old name of Bikaner) he built this temple around the idol. However no roof or walls were built around it.
Bhairav ji Temple
The presiding deity is Bhairav Nath. He is believed to have born from the place between the eyebrows; hence he is also called the third eye of Bhagwan Shiva. The deity is considered to be an incarnation of Bhagwan Shiva and his ferocious form.
Bhairav Nath or Bhairu ji Temple has just the idol on a marbled platform. Two tridents (weapons of Kodamdesar Bheru) decked with flowers flank the idol. I can never forget the face of the idol. Huge garlands of marigold flowers adorned the idol. The look was enigmatic with an all powerful fierceness in the eyes and a huge appetite due to the open mouth. Devotees and pujari took turns to place the offerings in the mouth of the idol. After recitation of some mantras the food is taken out and distributed as Prasad.
Lord Bhairav ji Temple Kodamdesar offerings
Just beside this temple there is a smaller shrine dedicated to Lord Bhairav’s brother. The arch over the entrance of the shrine read – Shri Trilokiranath Shri Siyana Kodanaam Mai Baap Shri Kodana Dham Jai Jai Shankar. There are symbols of dogs indicating dogs are revered too. This is so unlike other temples.
There is a huge pond just behind the temple where devotees feed fish. The whole area is calm and peaceful.
Unique Prayer Rituals in Bhairav ji Temple
- At Bhairav Nath Temple in Kodamdesar I witnessed very unique prayer rituals.
- It is customary for newly married couples to seek blessings of Lord Bhairav in this temple.
- Unlike in other temple the devotees themselves can put the offerings in idol’s mouth.
- In addition to sweets and savories devotees also offer liquor to Lord Bhairav.
- Animal sacrifices are offered as an act of thanksgiving to Lord Bhairav here.
- Dogs are revered here. That is because dogs are believed to be the vahana (vehicle) of Lord Bhairav.
- Another popular faith is that you are supposed to consume the Prasad within the temple complex and not take back home anything. I saw some devotees distributing all their Prasad among other devotees there.
Tips for Tourists to visit Kodamdesar Temple
- This temple is for the spiritually inclined and for those travelers seeking out quirky places to visit.
- Try and arrive early in the morning or late in the evening. With no trees around it can get unbearably hot during day.
- Photography is allowed thankfully.
- Dress modestly since the locals revere it a lot.
- Always remove footwear before entering the temple or any Hindu temple for that matter.
- Plenty of dogs around but don’t be alarmed as they are harmless.
- Best time to visit would be during the annual fair held here during Bhadrapada month in lunar calendar. That is Aug-Sept.
- Time required for visit is half an hour.
Lord Bhairav ji Temple Kodamdesar pond
Location and How to Reach Kodamdesar Bheruji Temple
Distance of Kodamdesar Bhairav Nath Temple is 29 km from Bikaner Junction. You can travel by bus or hire private taxis. There are plenty that will drop you off near the temple. It takes 40 minutes via Jaisalmer Road. Roads are in good condition.
Thanks to Narendra Bhawan for this interesting curated trail to Experience Bikaner. Other temples to see in Bikaner are:
Bhanda Shah Temple
Karni Mata Temple
Pin and save this post to plan a trip
Indrani, I have been to Kodamdesar two years ago during the winters and I drove to witness a sunrise during the dawn. Unfortunately, the drive itself was covered with a thick fog and in spite of waiting for a long time, the sun decided to hide behind the fog.
We always make sure to be up first thing in the morning to make it to the temple not only to beat the crowd but feel the energy is always stronger when you’re almost isolated and left alone.
When is the annual fair orginized there? During the day? You wrote the best time to visit is early in the morning (6AM?), but what about that fair? Is it there for the whole day? Thanks, nice place, BTW.
The annual fair is during August – September. It is during day time.
By early morning I meant before it starts getting too hot.
Wow I’ve never seen an Idol like that before, it actually looks a little scary to me with the big eyes and open mouth! A roof would seem like an important part of the temple but I love learning about the different ways people worship, it’s fascinating!
I love dogs so to hear that they are revered here. makes me very happy. Excellent practical tips for visiting the temple. Great photos as well.
20 million Hindu Temples in India! Wow! How fascinating is that! That’s like tons and tons of Hindu Temples everywhere you go! I’m interested in the unique rituals they do and also the customary seeking blessing to Lord Bhairav for married couples. Quite a similar tradition to Filipino couples who also seek a blessing to churches once married. And oh, I love dogs roaming around! Nice to know they’re harmless!
Loved the idea of literally leaving the food in the mouth of the idol. Lol…
Lesser known temples in Rajasthan always seem to have the quirkiest statues and customs.
I’ve never come across temples without roofs unless they are ancient ruins and the roof has fallen in over time! Fascinating that these are as designed. Also love the style of those icons with the giant mouths for leaving of offerings!
I would love to experience the locals feeding the idol. Such a unique memory
I always thought Shani Shingnapur was the only completely open air temple of India. Pleasantly surprised to know of Bhairu Ji temple. I have been to just one Bhairav temple till date (in Ujjain) and their unique worship practices are really interesting. Would love to know why dogs are knows as Bhairav’s vahans. Also, the story of how the idol ended up there is so fascinating! Your post covers all the needed bits to visit the place, along with letting people know why one should visit it. 🙂
A roofless temple that is for the spiritually inclined and quirky enough for the curious, too!
Very interesting indeed, about the permanent stay of the idol…the same story can be heard in Deoghar,the Baidyanath temple.
Never heard about it,thanks for sharing.
I love how well you share not only images but also such interesting facts and information about the places that you visit. I feel like I am learning so much about a new culture when I come to your blog!
Thank you Resse, that is a great compliment.
one more interesting find 🙂 On a visit to Bikaner someday
I didn’t know that there were so many Hindu Temples. If I ever get a chances to go to India I would visit this one.
you capture the best phots… I would absolutely love to be a tourist there!
Don’t take the prasad(offering) back home, consume then and there, distribute it. If still left, leave all that in the temple complex only. Have happened to many of my friends and me too, u fall ill and this is not just myth. Jai bhairu nath!
Looks like an amazing place to visit. I loved seeing all the photos!
What an amazing place. Thanks for sharing.
Lovely Post, My mom is a devotee of Bahiru Ji and she often goes to Bikaner. I am sharing this post with her surely she will also like the post.
A very nicely written post with all necessary and tourist friendly details.
Thank you very much