Chennakesava Temple at Somnathapura of Hoysala Architecture
Chennakesava Temple at Somnathapura, also known as Keshava Temple, is one of the finest example of Hosala architecture. This was the first Hoysala style temple I saw, needless to say it left a deep impact and mesmerizing effect on my mind. It is hard to imagine how sculptors of 12th C could chisel out such fine human and animal details in stone. Here is a photo essay on Chennakeshava Temple that will give you a virtual tour of the Hoysala architectural gem.
Chennakeshava Temple – this famous temple of Karnataka is a Vaishnav Hindu Temple located on the banks of River Kaveri. Unfortunately this is one of the most missed tourist destination. Tourists tour Mysore extensively, however this temple is skipped as it is in the outskirts of the city.
We missed visiting this temple each time we went to Mysore. We were lucky the third time we visited Mysore. We drove 35 km to Somnathapura from Mysore, part of the road was in bad condition. Chennakeshava temple of Somnathapur is not as well known as the Chennakeshava Temple of Belur and the temples in Halebid, probably that is why they are not damaged like the temples of Belur and Halebid.
Chennakesava Temple at Somnathapura
Chennakeshava Temple History
The temple was built in 1258 CE by Somanatha Dandanayaka, a general of the Hoysala King Narasimha III. (Hoysala dynasty, ruled in India from about 1006 to about 1346 CE in the southern Deccan and for a time in the Kaveri River valley.) He named the village after himself, hence the name Somnathapur.
Somanatha is known to have created an Agrahara (granting of lands to the Brahmins). As per that funds were allotted for the construction of the temple. In addition to this Keshava Temple, he is credited to have built Panchlinga Temple, Lakshminarsimha and Yoganarayana Temple around this region which have slipped into ruinous state.
Somnathpur Temple was plundered by Malik Kafur, Alauddin Khilji’s general in 1311 and Muhammad Bin Tughlaq in 1326. Later some parts of the temples were restored by Vijayanagara Kings and Wodeyars of Mysuru. The retouch and repairs have left their marks in the form of color, carvings, and polishing of the stone. In the recent past, the Archaeological Society of India (ASI) has repaired the enclosed wall and small Basadis within the complex.
Kesava temple stands on a raised platform like other Hoysala temples. Read on in the next section to know more about the architectural details.
Chennakesava Temple Architecture
Three Shrines of Chennakesava Temple Somnathapura
The temple is erected on a star shaped platform. It is trikuta temple, meaning it has three sacred shrines and three sanctums. They house the three different forms of Bhagwan Krishna –
Northern sanctum has Janardana Swamy (Janardana (Sanskrit: जनार्दन /janārdana/) is another name of Bhagwan Vishnu and appears as the 126th name in the Vishnu Sahasranamam.) The four armed Janardana image can be seen holding Shankh (conch), Chakra (spinning disc weapon), Gada(mace) and Padma (lotus).
Southern sanctum has Venugopal’s idol. (Venugopal or Venu Gopal is one of the names of Krishna, based on Gopāla (literally “cow protector”) as bearer of the flute Venu.) Worth noticing in this temple is the elaborately carved scene of Krishna playing his flute, and an audience listening to him in a hypnotised state! Look out for the details that show the audience that comprises of Devatas (Gods) from the Swarga Loka (heaven), his wives Rukmani and Satyabhama, sages, villagers, and cows are engrossed in the enthralling music played by Venugopala.
In the main hall there was the idol of Keshava. (Keshava means Para Brahman (Supreme Brahman ) according to Hindu scriptures. The name appears as the 23rd and 648th names in the Vishnu sahasranama of the Mahabharata.) The main idol of this shrine was damaged during the Tughlaqi invasion. The damaged idol, still beautiful, was taken away by the invading British to keep it as a display piece in their country. What a shame! An idol that was worshiped is a show piece for them!
Main Keshava idol is missing and the other two statues are are in damaged conditions. This is the main reason why prayers are not offered in this temple.
Facade of Shikhara
3 Shikharas of the shrines
The tips of the shikhara are visible from within the temple complex. There are not in a straight line but at an angle to each other matching with the star shaped plan of the temple structure. The façades of the shikhara are carved with yakshas (mythological) and celestial figures.
Three shikhara of Chennakeshava Temple Somnathpura
The temple stands in the middle of an open verandas with 64 cells.
Idols and pillars of this temple are carved from soft stone called chloritic schist. It allowed engraving very fine details as is evident from the intricately carved temple walls. This could be one of the reasons why artisans around this region are skilled in tradition of ivory and sandalwood carvings.
Entire facade of the temple is intricately carved with themes and characters from Hindu mythological texts. Southern facade has stories from the great epic Ramayana, northern facade has Mahabharata stories. Some parts have stories from Kamasutra, Vishnu Purana and Bhagavata Purana.
64 cells around Chennakeshava Temple – small Basadis or temple rooms built encompassing the wall
Star shaped platform of Chennakesava Temple at Somnathapura
The sides of the raised platform are carved with rows of elephants, horses, stories from epics and other characters.
The various animal bands represent the structure of Hoysala army as it existed then. Elephants, the strongest among animals, formed the lowermost part of the horizontal band that went around the outer wall of the temple. On close observation, it amazed me to notice no two elephants were sculpted in the same manner.
We were told there are 540 elephants carved all around the structure. Elephants represent strength, and they are holding up the entire structure. They are depicted to go from left to right, clock-wise direction just like the devotees do pradakshina (circumambulation) around the temple.
Just above the elephant band is the horse band. There are horse riders too. In some of the blocks there were a series of camels too.
Food being taken for Bakasura on a bullock cart – scene from Mahabharata
Interior of Chennakesava Temple
As if the exterior hadn’t stunned me enough; the intricate work in the interior of the three shrines left me in a daze! The sculptures are made of shiny soapstone which were reflecting the little light falling on them and that gave the figures an aura. I felt I was looking at real treasures!
Navaranga in Main shrine
It gets the name from the nine (nav) squares that form the huge hall of the temple. At one point just before entering the garbhagriha, the guide halted us on our tracks. He said we can see the deities in the three shrines from this spot. Indeed he was right! If you are on a self guided tour of Chennakesava Temple of Somanathapura do watch out for this spot.
Deities of Chennakesava Temple in Somnathapura
Lotus Buds on Ceilings
The interior of the temple was dimly lit. I didn’t know what to expect as I walked in. When the guide drew my attention there, the second thought that struck me was how did the sculptors manage to do it! Jaw dropping sculptures of blooming lotus buds! This is certainly more difficult than the Michelangelo’s painting in Vatican Museum. There are lot of carvings around the buds in rangoli patterns, spiraling snake and more. The significance interpreted according to Hindu scriptures is the endless wheel of Karma-Samsara (worldly life).
Photographs taken inside the temple without flash did not come out well. Below are couple of pictures of intricately carved ceiling. There are 16 different patterns and designs carved in the ceilings.
Pillars in Somnathapura Temple
These shiny pillars are a common feature of all Hoysala style temples. As I maneuvered around the pillars in the three shrines I couldn’t help but admire the mammoth pillars. All 16 pillars had different designs and different repetitive patterns.
The guide pointed out the different parts of the pillar and explained how they would have been made and assembled. Main parts – bottom square, chiseled body, lamp holding plate and connector to the ceiling at the top. Pillars were chiseled with the help of animals attached with a simple machine going around in circles.
Sculptors of the Temple Honored
The inscriptions on the slabs near the mahadwara (the main gate) give the details of the construction of the temple. There is also some mention of annual grant of 3,000 gold coins by the king for the temple’s upkeep and maintenance.
Some sculptors had engraved their names under their works. Names like Mallithama, Masanthamma, Chameya, Bhameya can be found engraved on the pedestals of the images. Mallithamma is credited with maximum number of images and also for carving the northern shikhara, that of Janardhana cell.
Hire a guide to know more
The temple exteriors have been maintained well, with beautiful gardens and other tourist friendly requirements. There were many guides very willing to explain the temple’s history and architecture. The guide charged us 300 INR (standard rate) for an hour’s explanation and tour around the temple.
This temple is worth visiting if you are a history buff, Hoysala architecture lover of religious kind. Don’t make the mistake of giving this a miss as it is little away from Mysore city. Such off beat destinations are rare.
Other temple visit that you can combine with this temple is Talakadu Panchalingeshwara Temple. Ranganathittu bird sanctuary too is close by, 38.9 km by road.
Timings: 9 AM to 5.30 PM
Tickets: Rs.5 for Indians and Rs.100 for Foreign tourist
How to reach: Chennakeshava Temple is located 38 km east of Mysuru city.
Fly in to Kempegowda International airport Bangalore, and make a road trip to Mysore that is 175 km. There are plenty of public and private transports that will drop you off at the temple.
Nearest railway station is the Hassan Railway Station.
There are public transport services like buses from the nearest bus stand, Hassan Bus Station, and take a cab from there to the site.
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(This was first posted on Sept 15, 2008.)
Oh, Indrani..You have left so much for me to catch up…
Will read over the weekend..Nice pictures, anyway.
devika
first two blogs updated.
These are just incredible shots of some wonderful architecture. You’ve captured it beautifully, as always.
This temple kindled my interest in Hoysalas and I went on the trail including 30 temples..had posted it in my earlier blog , but been wanting to do another post on it..unfortunately ,my pics are analog ..yours are splendid..and they are a reminder that my hoysala trail is long overdue
a country rich in cultural history as yours is really worth sharing. at least, we don’t need to spend to travel and see them anymore. and this is one of the finest things in blogging! thank you indrani!
and thanks for dropping by my site again. have a great weekend!
thoroughly fascinating pics – what intricate work on the walls! i must agree it is superb!!
I have been here 2 years back, and i think this temple is better maintained than bellur and halebidu or may be here the damage done was less. But the approach roads was bad and i heard that it is still the same.
so much like belur halebid! thank you so much for introducing somnathpur. have put it on my must visit list now!
Your photos of Asian architecture are always fabulous.
What details are you exactly looking for? You can mail me. indranidotghatgmaildotcom. 🙂
Great review about the temple and it structure look very attractive and awesome. Moreover can you share the experience in more details with me.
Great review about the temple and it structure look very attractive and awesome. Moreover can you share the experience in more details with me.
I thought the pictures from the inside turned out rather well, while not extremely sharp. That piper in the dark was my favourite from these.
i remember we went to this place for a schoool trip, how fun it was!! I guess u have captured my memories of the place perfectly for me to reconstruct it! Absolutely beautiful. 🙂
Congrats to Indrani, Mallithama, Masanthamma, Chameya, Bhameya for
their works :))
The Temple looks superb. In these days when people head for Theatre
complexes, you are unusual..!!!!
the details r so intricate. the craftsmen mus b very skilled
great pics and interesting anecdotes.
Somnathpur or Somanathapura temple architecture belong to the Hoysala style architecture of Belur or Belooru and Halebid or Halebeedu. Hence the carvings look similar. These temples stand as testament to the glorious days of Karnataka emergence as a nation (the term nation here indicates a cultural group) Hoysala kings in some respect can be compared to Chola Kings in the way they encouraged architecture and arts. This is not surprising as Hoysalas emerged after the decline of the Chola dynasty and the influence of the latter cannot be underestimated. Indeed, if one could take time to study the architecture, particularly the carvings at Brihadeeswarar temple at Tanjore and compare the style of those in Belooru, Halebeedu and Somanathapura, one can feel as if a further chapter was added. Ofcourse, the carving material is softer in Hoysala architecture thus producing finer details. It was said this exercise took decades to accomplish.One significant aspect of this Hoysala architecture was that the architects and sculptors left their signatures or names on stone slabs.
Every primary school Kannada texts in those days (1950s) had pages of these pictures and description of Hoysala dynasty. Belooru, Halebbedu and Somanathapura were the essentials on every school trips. A compendium called ‘Mysooru Kaipidi’ ( Mysore handbook) was a source often referred to
in our classes those days.
OMG, the pictures are wonderful. The architecture, the intricate carvings, detail are all marvellous.
Excellent pics, Indrani.
Can you try to visit a temple in Belur campus of NAL? It’s quite ancient, and you can find similar inscribed stones there.
Wow gorgeous building those design speak really the artistic ability of your people even in olden days..Lovely..
interesting shots!
Mine is up HERE
Temples in south India are always fascinating. No ?
Those are interesting works of art 🙂
Those are all great shots and a very interesting post. I love the detail you showed us in these photographs.
Oh wow… look at those details! Great looking temple!
My WS entries are posted here and here. Have a great week ahead!
I”m blown away by craftmanship.
amazing place. so many things to see. thanks for shared
Magnifique cette architecture, on dirait de la dentelle ces sculptures…
Indrani, so good.
The architecture and the intricate carvings are remniscent of the Belur temple – which also I have seen only in pictures.
Thanks for the information too. Your guide seems to have know his stuff. 🙂
Hello !
You have great pictures of the temple !
Belle promenade à effectuer !
oh wow! these are gorgeous pics! i love anything and everything about architecture! 🙂 thanks for sharing these! 😀