Holloko Hungary: Day Trip from Budapest

Far from the tourist swamped city of Budapest, in the lap of Cserhat Mountains north-east of Budapest lies this little picture perfect village of Holloko. We drove from Budapest for a day’s outing to this little village in Palócland. This tiny village, Holloko Hungary has a unique blend of natural and manmade countryside was declared UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.

Visit to Holloko Village from Budapest

Our road trip from Budapest to Holloko was nothing short of picturesque. The 100 km stretch seemed to pass in no time as we were captivated by the changing landscape. As we left the bustling city behind, the scenery gradually transformed. Lush greenery enveloped us, becoming denser with every kilometre closer to our destination.

The terrain became more mountainous, offering breath-taking vistas. We couldn’t resist stopping a few times to capture the idyllic scenes of sheep and cows peacefully grazing on the hillsides. These serene moments, frozen digitally, added a charming rural touch to our trip.

As we continued, the road began to fork. It was at this juncture that we spotted a large raven, a symbolic guide reassuring us that we were on the right track. This sighting, coupled with the natural beauty around us, marked the final leg of our journey to the enchanting Holloko village.

Visit Holloko from Budapest, a memorable road trip

Legend of Raven of Holloko Hungary

Sighted this huge raven as the road forked in to two, on our way to Holloko village. It is a picture perfect village, in the lap of Cserhat Mountains north-east of Budapest, Hungary.

(Date was : 9/5/2011) The Raven is a significant character in the legend that surrounds this village of Holloko. My daughters who are never tired of hearing stories, begged to hear this legend just once more.

The old village of Holloko is inscribed in list of UNESCO World Heritage site since 1987.

And I narrated the story:

The lord of a castle away from Holloko abducted a pretty maiden. However the maiden’s nurse didn’t sit quiet, she had the blood of loyalty and gratitude running deep in her veins.

Interestingly the maiden’s nurse was a witch. She schemed with a devil to rescue this damsel in distress. The kind and helpful devil organized his minions.

All of them disguised as ravens. One by one the ravens took the stones of the lord’s castle away, in the process the castle of Holloko was built on the top of a huge rock. Holloko means ‘raven stone’ and that is how it got its name too. Locals welcome ravens in this region even today.

Raven of Holloko, the rescuer, surely deserves to be photographed, my daughters decided.

Raven in Village and Fort of Holloko Hungary

Village and Fort of Holloko Hungary

Travelling Through Time in Holloko

Travelling through the Hungarian countryside felt like a journey through time to a past era. It is one of the best European villages I have been to. On a day trip from Budapest to the small village of Holloko, I was stunned to notice that this village has been meticulously preserved as it was before the agricultural revolution of the 20th century. Traffic of modern vehicles was almost nil.

As we arrived, the charm of Holloko was immediately apparent. Small wooden houses lined the streets, surrounded by fields that stretched out from the settlement. Barns stood proudly on the village’s edges, harking back to simpler times. Walking down Holloko’s main street felt like stepping into a living museum. Even though many of the buildings operate as shops, restaurants, or museums, mostly to cater to tourists, they still retain their historic essence. This is a rare glimpse into how rural Hungary was over a century ago.

Holloko village Hungary

St. Martin Church in Holloko Hungary

St. Martin Church, named after the village’s patron saint and built in 1889, is Holloko’s most prominent landmark. Located at a key intersection in the historic district, the church features a striking dark brown wooden shingled tower that contrasts with its white base, making it a standout in the community.

Trek to Holloko Fort and Castle

The restored medieval castle of Hollókő lies on the edge of a prominent cliff between the Cserhát mountains, near the UNESCO World Heritage Palóc site.

The arrangement for tourists at this site was fantastic. Proper directions for parking, small eateries, a small outlet for souvenirs and we also got proper route directions from the parking manager there. The Holloko village is best toured by foot. The path lured us constantly, we moved on at a crawling pace deliberately taking in deep breaths of the forest scent, and reading the sign posts all along the route. Soon we were at the gates of Holloko castle.

The castle, a thirteenth century landmark, is now in ruins. The family that owned the territory started to build a castle here upon the command of the famous Hungarian King VI. Bela. History lessons on the castle read thus:

“The castle was occupied by Turkish troops in 1552 and was only freed in 1683 by a Polish king. But after this the castle was abandoned and no one took care of the building.”

In spite of its ruinous state the tour through the castle interiors gave a good kingly feeling. Going up and down the castle stairs, from room to room was exciting. The views from over the crumbling walls of the castle were breathtaking. The Bukk National Park spread down below seemed to be painted with all shades of green. The houses of the Holloko village are visible from here.

There is a small museum inside the Hollókő castle which displays various weapons of medieval era and the lifestyle followed by the people of Holloko. A section here is dedicated to huge dolls; these are placed amongst the furniture there which added life to the scenes depicted.

Village Pallocs

Next we headed towards the village, Pallocs. The inhabitants of this village have a unique tradition and culture. Their architectural styles are unique and so is their language. The village, we were told, has burned several times. Each time it was rebuild with wood and reoccupied. The inhabitants, it seems, never obeyed the existing law then of not using timber.

The original houses usually had three main rooms in them: the pantry, the kitchen and the bedroom. A stable was built outside for smaller animals. The straw roofs were supported by columns on both sides and also had long verandas along the building. The original building materials are no longer used. What we got to see are the houses that were rebuilt in 1909, in their original form, after a huge fire completely devastated the village. This time they were rebuilt with brick walls and tiled roofs.

It is evident that efforts are on to preserve this ethnic groups’ identity. The same atmosphere that was prevalent before the agricultural revolution of twentieth century has been recreated. There are just 60 to 70 houses neatly built and fenced on either side of a single street. Yes we were amazed; a village with just a single street and it still retains the old world ambiance. At the center of the village is the village church of 1889, a beautiful white washed structure with wooden belfry.

Some of the houses have been converted to museums dedicated to various themes.

Paloc Doll Museum in Holloko

The doll museum and the pottery museum had such a magnetic charm that we found it difficult to tear ourselves away and move on. The designs and embroidered patterns on the dresses and the intricate pottery work speak volumes about the immense talent in the locals there. Not many people reside here and it seemed as if many scenes were straight out of a movie set, with actors taking pains to convey the culture they are proud of.

As we walked out of history in to the twenty first century, scenes of the conservation of this traditional village flashed across my mind. They seemed to hold more meaning. Hungary is doing a great job of preserving this piece of history; it is educational both for young and old.

Post Museum in Holloko

The Post Museum in Holloko, housed in just two rooms, narrates the story of the local postal service and its role in representing traditional culture. Exhibits include postcards, stamps, and banknotes depicting local landscapes, Paloc costumes, and cultural imagery.

Village Museum in Holloko Hungary

Holloko’s primary museum, the Village Museum, showcases the cultural and heritage items that tell the story of local life. Housed in a preserved early 20th-century home, it depicts the living conditions of a young middle-class family. Unlike other buildings in the village that have been modernized, this museum offers an authentic glimpse into Holloko’s history.

How to get to Village and Fort of Holloko

Hire a car if your budget permits, a good GPS will guide you till the final point. We took the motorway M3 till Hatvan, then along the main road turned off onto Route 21 in the direction of Salgótarján until the junction for Holloko. From here, it was a 17 km drive.

There are bus services from Budapest; it takes two hours each way. Public transportation is available on daily basis.

Tour time for the site: Three to four hours is sufficient time to cover the entire site unless you plan to do research there.

One day in Holloko Hungary

The day was well spent in Holloko village. My kids enjoyed witnessing the lifestyle of a European village. To them it was like a page from their history book of Hungary.

However, it’s essential to remember that Holloko is not merely a historical exhibit but a living community. People still inhabit this charming village, which now includes modern conveniences like electricity. Yet, the essence of the past lingers in the air, making a visit to Holloko a truly unique experience where history and modernity subtly coexist.

It would be unfair if you plan to tour the village in just one hour. While that is possible because there are just around 67 houses that are officially protected as a World Heritage Site, but then you are bound to lose out on the charm of this medieval village.

Plan well in advance to visit the museums that offer a glimpse into the village’s rich history. Take time to tour the Holloko fort and castle well. We deliberately took time to walk slow through the forest. We relished a meal at one of the local restaurants; one of the best traditional Hungarian cuisines during my Hungary tour.

We were tempted to stay over for a night in the village. There are some lovely homes that can accommodate tourists. The authentic Hollóköves Vendégházak has a variety of rooms to suit any size of group. But the tragedy was that we were not prepared and we didn’t expect to fall in love with this charming Holloko village. Reluctantly we drove back the 100 km back to Budapest from Holloko in less than an hour. We then indulged in the things to do in Budapest.

When to visit Holloko Village and Fort

Of course spring is the best time, but if you wish to some traditional colourful folk customs and costumes, Easter time would be the best. Here are some occasions that are worth seeing and participating:

St. Martin’s Day in Holloko

Saint Martin, the patron saint of Holloko, is celebrated annually on November 11. The village marks the occasion with traditional goose dishes, offering visitors a chance to sample various culinary delights. Mulled wine, a seasonal favourite, is also abundant, adding warmth to the festive atmosphere.

Harvest Festival in Holloko

Holloko celebrates its Harvest Festival on the second Saturday of October, highlighting the community’s agricultural roots. The event features street parades, concerts, craft stalls, and various interactive activities. Unlike many other festivals with religious elements, this one is purely about fun.

Castle Tournament in Holloko

In August, Holloko Castle springs to life with the Castle Tournament. The event features medieval costumes, lively events, and ample food to keep attendees energized throughout the day.

Pentecost in Holloko

Pentecost, celebrated 50 days after Easter, is a significant religious day for Holloko residents. The occasion sees the return of traditional folk costumes, highlighting the village’s cultural heritage.

Holloko Easter Festival

Running from Saturday to Monday, the Easter Festival is Holloko’s biggest celebration. Residents don their ornate folk costumes for various events. Highlights include food stalls, craft displays, concerts, and traditional Hungarian Easter activities like water pouring and egg painting.

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