Vaikuntha Perumal Temple Kanchipuram: A Spiritual Haven
Vaikuntha Perumal Temple in Kanchipuram:
A Sacred Journey into Hindu Mythology
As I approached Thiru Parameswara Vinnagaram Temple, also known by the name Vaikuntha Perumal Temple Kanchipuram, I was surprised by its small and simple façade. Since this temple is one of the 108 divya desams; I expected the temple to have an impressive gopuram (entrance tower). (Divya desam Temples are the 108 Vishnu temples that are mentioned in the works of the Tamil Azhwars (saints).)
We walked beside the temple tank Airammadha Teertham. A well manicured path of granite stone slabs lined with green grass led me to the main entrance. The sight of sandals and shoes was an indicator we had to leave ours here. Bare feet, I stepped into the worn out stone floor of the temple premises. There was hardly any crowd, I was glad I could make it early.
Once inside, the first sight that caught my eye was of the dhwajasthamba (flag pole), a shiny brass structure that shot up to sky with a flag fluttering at the top.
Vaikunta Perumal Temple: A Spiritual Haven in Kanchipuram
Vaikuntha Perumal, the name
Vaikuntha meaning: Bhagwan Vishnu’s abode, where he stays with Lakshmi
Perumal meaning: the ‘Great One’, is the name of a Hindu deity.
History of Vaikuntha Perumal Temple
Try and hire a guide to get a good understanding of history, art, architecture and meaning of relevant sculptures on the temple walls. Since I arrived early one of the pujaris, who was relatively free, guided us around the temple.
This temple, Thiru Parameswara Vinnagaram was built by Pallava King Nandivarman II. He took reins of the kingdom at the tender age of 12 (731 AD) and ruled for 65 years, that marks an important era in rule by Pallava dynasty. The temple was called Parmeshwara Vishnugriham, after the original name of the king Parmeshwara. Later rulers of Chola dynasty and Vijayanagara Kings too contributed to building and upkeep of this temple.
Kanchipuram is one of the very few places in India where both Vaishnavite (followers of Lord Vishnu) and Shaivite (followers of Lord Shiva) temples are located. These are two of the four sects of Hinduism. The Vaikunta Perumal temple is dedicated to Bhagwan Vishnu. It was built shortly after the construction of Kailasanatha Temple in mid-eighth century, by Pallava King Nandivarman.
Dhwajastambha in Vaikunta Perumal temple
Art and Architecture of Vaikunta Perumal Temple
The temple is constructed in the Dravidian style of architecture. The temple is built of granite with a mixture of sandstone. Many of its styles were incorporated in temples built after this. The temple is small and compact. Here are the highlights of Vaikuntha Perumal Temple:
3 Levels of Garbhagriha
An unique architectural feature of this temple is that it has 3 levels of garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum, the innermost sanctuary of Hindu temples), one above the other.
- There is a huge image of God Vishnu in seated posture in ground floor – the posture in which God advises the King, as an acharya would do to his disciple.
- Image of God Vishnu is in reclining posture (Sheshashayi Vishnu) in second level – the king serves Vishnu, just as a disciple would serve his Guru.
- The image in third level was a standing image of Vishnu. God Vishnu taught 18 different arts to Parameswara Varman in his standing posture. Sadly it is missing for years now.
Two flights of stairs connect the 3 floors, one for going up and other for descending. As tourist, I could see only the ground floor idol. The second floor is opened only on Ekadashi or the 11th of every fortnight of the lunar calendar followed by Hindus in India.
The construction is such that the staircase to three floors is is not visible from anywhere in the temple complex. I have read you can do circumambulation at each level. Do time your visit if you wish to do it.
Base of dhwajastambha – The Divine Beauty of Vaikunta Perumal Temple in Kancheepuram: A Photographic Journey
Lion Pillars of the Temple
Most impressive and unique feature of the temple are the pillars. They are like the signature, stamp of Pallava architecture in Tamil Nadu. Each one of the tapering pillars has a lion carved on it. The colors vary from pale sandstone to dark granite color.
The lions have been designed differently too. It is a clear indication that the pillars were restored by the different dynasties that ruled the region.
They support the enclosed passage inside the temple. This architectural style, that of pillars in rows, led to a distinctive style followed by the later temples. It led to the evolution of the architectural style of 1000 pillared halls in latter temples.
Lakshmi as Anandavalli
God Vishnu is worshipped as Vaikunta Perumal and his consort Lakshmi as Anandavalli.
Lakshmi as Anandavalli in Vaikuntha Perumal Temple
Temple Tank
The temple is surrounded by a granite wall enclosing all the shrines and water bodies of the temple. The temple tank is called Airammadha theertham and the vimanam is known as Mukunda vimanam.
Mentions of Vaikunta Perumal Temple in scriptures
This temple is revered in Nalayira Divya Prabhandham, which was composed during 7th to 9th century CE, Vaishnava canon by the Vaishnavite Scholar Thirumangai Azhwar in his 10 hymns.
Try and read up the book by D Dennis Hudson on Vaikuntha Perumal Temple before you visit the temple. In his book he mentions that the idol in the middle floor of the temple is worshipped in 12 different forms of Vishnu – Keshava, Narayana, Madhava, Govinda, Vishnu, Madhusudan, Trivikram, Vamana, Sridhara, Hrishikesh, Padmanabha, Damodara.
Uncovering the History and Architecture of Vaikunta Perumal Temple in Kanchipuram
Stories on Walls of the Temple
The walls too are carved. I lost track of time as I observed the sculptures on the walls of the temple. Inside there were more. They were themed on history of Pallava dynasty. The sculptures depict the stories of war scenes between the Pallavas and Chalukyas.
The religious sculptures found on the inner walls of the verandah running around the four sides of this temple are very unique and important. Look out for the sculpture of Buddhist monk I Ching in the wall panels.
The poojari who doubled up as guide highlighted more about the sculptures, which I may have failed to notice if I was on my own. Panels on the left walls depict the stories of Vishnu, while on the other side, the stories on the right wall depict parallel stories from the life of King Nandivarman who is credited with building this temple.
One panel describes the history of the temple in eighth century script. The information here is not found in any other temples of India. Numerous inscriptions of the Pallava dynasty in Vaikuntha Perumal temple have helped the historians of South India. They could decipher and write about all the events of ancient Pallava history and could fix the chronology of this dynasty.
Temple corridor – Exploring the Ancient Beauty of Vaikunta Perumal Temple
Interesting legends associated with the temple
There are two interesting legends associated with Vaikunta Perumal Temple of Kanchipuram. Read on to know them:
- The temple is located in a region which was previously called Vidarbha Desa. Viroacha King who ruled had no heirs due to his misdeeds in previous birth. He prayed in Kailasanathar Temple. God Shiva, the presiding deity of the temple blessed him that the Dwarapalas (the gatekeepers) of the Vishnu temple will be born as sons to him.
Both princes were devoted to God Vishnu. They conducted yagna (sacrifice) for welfare of the people of their kingdom. Bhagwan Vishnu was immensely pleased with their worship. He appeared as Vaikundanatha to the princes – Dwarapalakas – Pallavan and Villalan. - It is believed there was a secret underground tunnel laid out from this temple all the way till Mahabalipuram, and another to King Parameswara’s court. When the ruling British got to know about this they visited the temple to see it for themselves. The devotees quickly joined hands to build steps that led to temple sannidhi (holy place) within the complex itself thus confusing the British and turning them away.
Vaikunta Perumal Temple wall sculptures
Vaikuntha Perumal Temple Kanchipuram Information
Tour time: The temple is small and compact, yet stunning especially due to the profusely sculpted walls. The tour time for Vaikunta Perumal temple can take less than an hour, unless you really want to linger to do extensive photography of the temple or simply soak in the peaceful ambiance of the temple. Photography is allowed in the temple except inside the sanctum.
Address: RPP6+R3V, Periya, Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu 631502. There is another temple with similar name – Vaikunda Perumal Temple – in Uthiramerur, a village in Kanchipuram town. Give proper directions to the driver taking you the temple.
Main Festivals celebrated: Vaikuntha Ekadashi, Ram Navmi and Krishna Janamasthmi.
Timings: Open from 6 AM to 12 PM and 4 PM to 6 PM. Daily 6 Poojas take place in the temple.
Tickets: No tickets required to enter the temple. It is a free sight.
Dress code: No bare shoulders and shorts as dress.
Temples near Vaikunta Perumal Temple:
- Ekambareswarar Temple is at a distance of 2.4 km
- Sri Kailasanathar Temple is at a distance of 2.4 km
How to reach Vaikunta Perumal Temple Kanchipuram?
By air: The nearest airport to Kanchipuram is Chennai International Airport (Meenambakkam), 2 hours drive away.
By rail: Kanchipram can be reached from Chennai Central railway station and Arakkonam railway station. The temple is 2.4 km from Kanchipuram Railway station.
By road: Temple is at a walkable distance from Kanchipuram Bus station. Kanchipuram is 75 km away from Chennai and is well connected by a good network of roads.
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Lovely shots !
Hello Indrani,
Wow!
Nice info on the Shiva temple!
The temples in the south are so mystical and magnificent!!
Nice blog..will visit often..
Great pics too!!
Those ancient buildings are so awe inspiring!
Hi Indrani — thank you for sharing your beautiful pictures and for the history lesson. (Such an easy way to learn, looking at your pictures and well-chosen words.) You live in such a beautiful place.
Hi Indrani! This looks another place that should be put in my list; but how will I manage to see it all? Like Jorge Amado would say, you can't do it all, but you have to try… ;))
Thanks for your support to Blogtrotter Two, now departing Miami by air; my Easter egg for you… ;). Have a great weekend!!
Wonderful post Indrani 🙂
Unique temple !!!!
Have a Happy Weekend 🙂
Indrani, it's a fantastic temple, the carvings are amazing. Wonderful images, thanks for sharing!
How they stored their data those days! Through their sculptures. Lovely!
I have visited this temple and its absolutely marvellous. The architecture is very beautiful and you have taken lovely shots.
I marvelled at the intricate carvings. The thought that the craftsmen did these works of arts with limited tools during their time amazes me.
You always have nice pictures. I like that it is so different from what I have seen.
Wow! look at the details, such exquisite etchings and architecture.
Blogging has really brought me around the globe.
Thanks for sharing this Indrani…I was almost going to leave a comment on your last post.. but last year my husband and I visited Kanchipuram, and he took a few photos there 🙂 Take a peek at this one he took in this temple
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kris_kumar/3626100404/
Also, Indrani, did you notice the unique way some people do prayer in the grabha graha- by crawling in a tiny crawl space around the backside of the god inside the building itself. Small kids and men did it. My husband did it.
Beautiful post. I do not know how I reached here so late.
The amount of human effort that must have gone into these temples is astounding.
Great shots and building. Love pillar shots.
Beautiful photos. I especially love the photos of the columns/posts. Thank you for sharing.
such amazing place. fantastic structures and great photos. thanks
Another interesting post with beautiful photos from your wonderful world.
Those lion pillars are magnificent!
Beautiful light on some of these photos, especially the golden sunlight. All those different variations of Shiva and Vishnu confuse me, but it's all beautiful.
Wonderful shots of the beautiful temple. Even though small when compared to other temples in the area it has its own charm.
wow. beautiful temples. i really want to go to your country because there is so much things to see.
that was so interesting. the composition of the 1st pic is great!
Another marvelous and informative post with gorgeous photos, Indrani! Your posts are the next best thing to being there! Thanks for sharing so much of the beauty of your country! Have a wonderful week!
Sylvia
Feature with a purpose always sounds even more interesting. Another series of shots to enjoy. Thanks, Indrani.
kanchipuram is full of temples. And I don't remember visiting this one.
beautiful pictures. temples looks clean.
Nisha
aloha,
thanks for sharing a little bit of your world, it looks like a wonderful time to be there and with no crowds. i love the amazing courtyard and the beautiful lion pillars, very unusual and exotic
Second from bottom is my fav. A great pic of an great place. Postcard perfect!
Such intricate carvings in the temple! I have to admit I didn't know Hinduism has four sects. But Hinduism has been around for so long it makes sense that there would be many people with different ideas. Thanks for this interesting post, Indrani!
Very interesting post and shots. I know I've said this many times but I'm always so amazed by the intricacy of the carvings on architecture in India.
Another interesting look at your part of the world.
Another fabulous post Indrani. Thank you!
Lovely post, thanks for the tour 🙂
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