Traditional Weavers of Kanchipuram Tamil Nadu
Love silk sarees of India? Discover the art of Kanchivaram sarees and the traditional silk weavers of Kanchipuram. Learn about their struggles and the beauty of their craft in this blog post.
80% of the population of Kanchipuram depend on this one ancient skill of traditional silk weaving for their daily bread. They weave fine silk cloth from silk threads.
For centuries Kanchi weavers have depended on this skill of weaving silk yarns in to beautiful sarees for their survival. Engage a power loom to do the same job and you can easily displace 1000 weavers and snatch their daily bread.
Traditional Silk Weaving in Kanchipuram: A World of Color, Texture, and Tradition
Traditional Weavers of Kanchipuram
I saw many outlets there in Kanchipuram weavers’ colony engaged in silk weaving. Most of the houses had a loom in their backyard. The weavers belong to different societies, meaning they are not employed but engaged in supply basis. So the pressure is on to have steady input of raw materials from the societies to keep themselves employed.
Any sickness or accident, and not being able to deliver the finished product in time leads to loss of earning. In many houses the family members too have learned this skill to chip in their bit in case of emergencies.
Did you know of the struggles the Kanchi weavers face for creating some of the most beautiful and intricate silk sarees in India?
One of the main challenges facing Kanchipuram silk weavers is the lack of government support. Like I said before 80% of Kancheepuram town is involved in this art, not all come under the support schemes, yet they carry on with the challenges of life they face. The working conditions are bad. Many of the rooms are dimly lit and in summers it gets more difficult to continue working for longer hours.
The Kanchi weaver couple I met said they find it difficult to compete with weavers producing weaves with machine looms. They said many consumers opt for silk sarees that made by machines as they are a lot cheaper. A traditionally woven Kancheepuram saree takes more than three times the time taken by machines.
Procuring authentic raw materials, silk yarns, is a big challenge. Silk yarns are often in short supply or of poor quality. This makes it difficult for weavers to produce high-quality sarees that can command a good price in the market.
Last but not the least, the weavers face issues related to marketing and distribution of their finished products. Weaving is the only skill they know. Ignorant of latest resources or knowledge to market their products effectively makes it difficult for them to find buyers and sell their sarees at a fair price.
Traditional silk weaving machine – Discovering the Art and Craftsmanship of Kanchipuram Silk Sarees and the Weavers Behind Them
Kanjivaram Saree – Interesting Facts
Sarees made in Kanchipuram have become a brand of repute now! Locally they are known as Kanjivaram sarees. Pattu saree is a generic term for all silk sarees in south of India.
Among them kanjivaram silks is the most sought after one. A south Indian bride’s wardrobe is incomplete if it doesn’t consist of at least one kanjivaram saree. Traditional Kanchivaram saree is purely hand woven from the processed silk yarn and Zari, the silk thread made of silver and gold.
The Kanjivaram sari is exclusively known for its rich gold borders and dense brocades in contrast colours. They are hand-woven purely from dyed silk-yarn and zari. The saris are reputed for richness, texture, lustre, durability and finish.
Contrasting colours are used for the borders, body, and pallu, which are woven separately and joined later. This technique is called the korvai method.
Kanchipuram town specialized in Murukku pattu, a heavy silk sari which is woven with twisted three-ply silk yarn and Zari on fly-shuttle pit looms.
Kanjivaram saree and Kancheepuram saree are one and the same. Kanjivaram sarees originated from Kancheepuram, South India, hence are called Kancheepuram Sarees which are made from pure mulberry silk thread.
Cost of Kanchipuram sarees – The kanjivaram saree price starts from a minimum of Rs. 12,000. This cost is the bare minimum for the silk thread, the zari work and the weaving. As the quality, design and weaving increases, the price of the saree increases and can cost up to Rs. 5 lakhs.
How to find a genuine Kanchipuram Saree?
In a genuine Kanchipuram Silk Sari, body and border are woven separately and then interlocked together. The joint is woven so strongly that even if the saris tears, the border will not detach. That differentiates the kanchivaram silk saris from the others.
A pure Kanjeevaram saree will always feel soft and smooth when rubbed gently without any unevenness. Fake Kanchipuram saree will always have unevenness. They are slightly coarser in texture than the genuine Kanchipuram.
Why is Kanchipuram saree stiff?
Usually the starch used in weaving gives a stiff feel to most kanjivaram silks. The sari softens as the starch drops off.
You can hasten the process by opening and refolding the sari a few times. To soften the stiff kanjivaram saree without removing the starch completely steam iron the saree. To remove the starch completely soak the saree in cold water for 30 minutes.
Kanjeevaram Saree care: Use silica gel sachets to absorb moisture. Air your Kanjivaram saree once every 3 to 4 months by opening the sari, spread it out over a cool surface for about 30 minutes and refold it back to storage. This helps to avoid colour fade along the folds and preserves the yarn along the creases.
Different types of kanjivaram sarees – There are three types of Kanchipuram silks, their cost varies according to the raw material used –
- pure silk and pure zari
- pure silk and textile/half-fine/tested zari
- polyester/silk mix and pure zari
Basic steps of weaving Kanchivaram Sarees
- Sericulture, raising silkworms and harvesting cocoons
- Silk extraction from cocoons
- Dyeing
- Zari
- Designing
- Weaving
Weaving a Story: The History and Significance of Kancheevaram Silk Sarees
How many days to weave a kancheevaram saree?
My curiosity to know how much they earn from led me to asking them different questions. I couldn’t ask them that question directly. They were happy to answer me. They showed me the template of their designs, how different color threads are used to make the different designs.
Raw silk is obtained by the societies from the silkworm farms of Karnataka. These yarns are then dyed and provided to the weavers. It takes almost 35 to 40 days to weave a single saree depending on the complexity of the design. If the same pattern, design is repeated, then the following sarees take just around 10 days. The completed sarees are given to the society back, which makes the sales.
Why are Kanjeevaram Sarees heavy?
The Kanjivaram fabric is one of the most durable and strong fabrics. Three silk threads twisted together with the silver wire are used to make the saree. Thus it becomes more durable. A genuine good quality Kanjivaram saree can weigh as heavy as 2 kg.
Different types of Silk Sarees of India
Different parts of India weave silk sarees and they have become popular by their names of places of origin, culture or art. There are at least 30 such silk saree varieties, if not more.
- Baluchari Silk is popular in West Bengal, India.
- Paithani silk saree are products from Maharashtra.
A Glimpse into the World of Kanchipuram Silk Weavers and Their Handmade Sarees
What are the various tools for silk weaving?
The cost of the sarees depend on the size and complexity of the designs, and the zari used. To create these designs the traditional weavers of Kanchipuram have several handmade tools. Yes, absolutely no modern software involved and they make such mesmerizing designs in different color combinations.
Template for weaving silk designs
Silk threads tied to weaving machine – Exploring the Legacy of Kanchipuram Silk Sarees: A Journey into India’s Textile Heritage
Tool box of Kanchipuram Silk Weavers: Honoring the Timeless Tradition of Handloom Sarees
Various designs for silk sarees on a paper.
Zaris are gold and silver threads which are sourced from Gujarat. The shelf life of these sarees are around 15 years, but these zaris can be melted and reused in a new one. Walk in to any of the outlets of the societies there, you will find them willing to guide you to the looms where weaving is on.
How to meet Traditional Weavers of Kanchipuram?
If you are genuinely interested in meeting the weavers it is quite possible. Tell the hotel staff where you are put up. They often arrange such small tours to weavers’ colony of Kanchipuram, which turn out to be beneficial for both parties.
You can also get in touch with local travel agent to meet traditional weavers in Kanchipuram. They have good local contacts. Make it very clear to them that you are interested in the production and meeting the Kanchi pattu saree weavers. Let them know that you want to buy sarees directly from weavers.
Traditional Silk Weavers Kanchipuram – Kanchipuram Silk Weaving: A Cherished Craft Passed Down Through Generations
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I love your photograph with the old man weavering. He is the face of the real world.
Nice that you went to a weaving centre..during deepavali, all the designs come from here and every big brand has its own group of weavers
A good photo-document 🙂
I have always found weavers to be amazing craftspeople and great artists in their own right.
did you see the movie kancheepuram – about the lives of these weavers? if not, pls do – it will be an eye opener..
Very fascinating! Wonderful images, so attractive! Thanks for sharing, Indrani!
Beautiful colors and pictures — beautiful post. Thank you for sharing.
Beautiful pictures..
Amazing..I simply loved them
🙂
Somehow your pictures make me think that in a global energy crisis, India would be a lot less damaged than the rest of the world, and you would still be beautifully clothed.
Lovely pictures. I did visit Pochampally and see weaving done there. It is indeed so lovely. Such hard work resulting in beautiful designs. And we always look for discounts.
The color of the weave are so cool and bright…
Grand Train Station World
It's a wonderful kind of handicraft – hope it will last forever and never be forgotten 🙂
Is truly magnificent see as weave
these wonders!!!
Thanks for sharing and great pictures!
🙂
Hard, skilled work by the weavers. it's hard not to admire such beautiful sarees. Better still wear them!
This is hard work but the result is wonderful.
Wonderful photos and info.
such a lovely weave and such a soothing colour!! wish for more pictures!!
Amazing that this is still done by hand – better quality than a power weaver, I bet, but more expensive.
Wonderful photos, especially the close-ups.
Such lovely handiwork – beautiful rich colours!
Beautiful post. I had been to Kanhipuram, but missed this. The Kanchi Saree are awesome.
Its fascinating to watch weavers at work!
amazing indeed!
Nice. Do we even consider the work and time that goes into the making of the sarees? Sometimes we don't even wear it the number of times it takes in days for it to be woven!
aloha,
what a wonderful day today is visiting your corner of the world and seeing this beautiful technique, i'm surprised to see this still done by hand?….thanks for showing this to us!
Those colors are gorgeous, and the work is so very fine. Wow.
It's truly amazing to see how evenly the woven work is! What skill!
What a wonderful look at the weaving. Beautiful fabrics they make.
Oh wow, what a special opportunity. I love seeing people wear saris. I've got a handful in the closet but don't have any chance to wear them out here.
Hello Indrani,
I can imagine standing and watching the silken thread being woven into a beautiful sari. You explain the process well – very interesting.
Sarees! Wow, it has been ages since I have worn one. My college classmate loaned me one outfit for one festival. The material is so soft and lots of shimmer.
I might get one for myself here.
Such fine craftsmanship!
I'm always amazed at woven silk like this — regardless of the method. the threads are so fine I don't know how anyone could do it by hand. But I suppose after you've done it all your life, it's second nature.
They sure do make a beautiful product!
Fantastic! I, too, felt myself wanting to touch it! Such vibrant color! Your photos are magnificent as always and your post is fascinating as always! So glad you share your beautiful world with us, Indrani! Have a lovely week!
Sylvia
I found myself reaching out, wanting to put my fingers on this… the color is so vibrant, so vivid- it just begs to be touched.
Its beautiful handcraft (weaving):)
Craftsmanship !!!
When I see a woman wearing a saree I always think it will be camouflaged all unevenness !!
(I hope you know what I mean 😉
LOL
We wear clothes that shows everything exactly……
😉