Rani ki Vav Queen’s Step Well in Patan Gujarat, a UNESCO Site

Rani ki Vav translates to Queen’s step well, but to pass it off as just a well would be unfair. It was made by a Queen for her King, and was designed to be a reservoir, a seven layered step well, an inverted temple with a maze of steps – Rani ki Vav in Patan Gujarat is all in one.

My head went swirling as I descended the steps of Rani Ki Vav. At any other monument I would have to look up, crane my neck to have a good look at the sculpted figures, but not here. With each step down towards the well, the sculpted figures seemed to envelope me, they were at eye level!

Rani ki Vav in Patan

What is a Vav

Vav is the Gujarati word for step well; it is called baoli in Rajasthan. Kings of medieval era constructed stepwells for storage of water to tide through the spells of drought. They were sturdy structures designed well to withstand earthquakes. With time, stepwells were bestowed with social, cultural and religious significance. In south these step wells are known by the name Pushkarni or Kund.

Architecturally they are categorised into four types depending on the number of entrances to the well.

Nanda Vav has one entrance, Bhadra is designed with two entrances, Jaya has three (like in Adalaj ni Vav) and finally Vijaya has entrances in all four directions (in Modhera Sun Temple).

Common well differs from step wells, in the former water has to be drawn up but in latter one has to go down the steps to collect water.

Rani ki Vav Step Well Gujarat was Never Forgotten

History of Rani ki Vav is an interesting one

Ran ki Vav was built during 11th century by Queen Udayamati as a memorial to her husband, the Solanki King Bhimadeva I. A 1304 composition of Jain monk, Merutunga, mentions that Queen Udayamati is the daughter of Naravaraha Khangara.

King Bhima, during his reign had built the great Surya temple at Modhera. After the king died in the year 1063, the queen along with her son built this well which got famous as Rani Ki Vav meaning the Queen’s step well.

Just like we plant a tree in memory of the dead today, in those days such watering places were constructed to commemorate the dead; one of the reasons why you will find innumerable stepwells in Gujarat and Rajasthan where water was scarce.

Step well Pavilions pillars

This architectural splendor, Queen’s step well of 11^th century, was never forgotten. In fact it was getting erased structurally, slowly and steadily by both nature and humans. Repeated flooding by the nearby River Saraswati damaged and eroded away the top visible layers of the structure. With each seasonal flood the well would get filled up by heavy deposits of sand. It was soon abandoned.

In early 19^th century, after a major surge, the pillars and other supporting structures collapsed. The owner of the land carted away the remains to make another stepwell, Barot Vav, in Patan. The magnificent wonder of architecture was neglected for the rest of century, until Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) took up its renovation in 1980s.

It was declared as a world heritage site by the UNESCO in the year 2014.

Goddess Durga – Mahisasura Mardini slaying the demon – in Rani ki Vav Step well Patan Gujarat

Queen’s step well – Architectural Details

The temple was built using Maru-Gurjara architecture during the rule of the Chalukyan dynasty. See another temple with same architecture: Ranakpur Jain Temple, Rajasthan.

Originally Rani ki Vav had seven layers, or storeys, of which only five remain today. But even these five layers will take your breath away! Were the stepwells always so grand, I wondered! There were simpler ones too. Those wells had plain dressed stones that protected the sides of the sandy pit. The passage to water was kept as short as possible.

It was over a period of time the architects devised the means to strengthen these structures. The passages were expanded in length and width, with more landings and pavilions. Creativity crept in next, and the plain stones were given shape and stories, often adding a religious quality to them.

Women indulging in make up and personal grooming – Rani ki Vav Step well Gujarat – Pic 1 – woman putting lipstick, Pic 2 – her attendant doing pedicure, Pic 3 – applying eyeliner holding a mirror, Pic 4 – shaving/ waxing

Dimensions: The rectangular tank measures seven meters east to west and six meters north to south. One could get access to the tank from the floor of the third pavilion. It is less than three meters deep from the floor but now considering the fragility of the structure tourists and public are not allowed to get to that part of the well. High walls of about fifteen meters flank it on either side. There were 292 pillars in the pavilions, now just 226remain. Some are in good condition while others are partially so.

During construction to add to the structure’s stability and for protection from earthquakes the builders added two-storey high ‘bracing structure’. This ‘two storeyed’ structure was built into the bed of the reservoir. They consist of a frame of pillars and beams to strengthen the walls on both the northern and southern sides. There are four of them, we are allowed only till the second bracing structure.

The terrace, vertical panels, niches on the walls, ceilings and pillars were sculpted with images from daily life, divine images, apsarās (celestial women) and mythological stories. It will take hours if you really want to study and photograph them.

Pillar in Rani ki Vav step well Gujarat

What to see in Rani ki Vav Step Well Gujarat

As I entered the UNESCO site, just a vast plain green lawn was visible from the gate. Walking ahead towards the step well, I was stupefied by the enormous size of the well! My first emotion was: What a treasure below ground level!

Then as I descended the steps, the layers of sculptures seemed to wrap me up. Such a lot to photograph, mind went whirling before I could really focus on the sculptures to click. Here are some of the main themes sculpted in the well.

# It is assumed that originally the number of large sculptures numbered to 800 and countless smaller figures. Today there are lot lesser than 800; nevertheless those that remain are in good condition. That could be because the well was neglected and large portion of it lay covered in silt. On hindsight it was a blessing in disguise (of silt)!

# Each of the seven terraces was organized into three horizontal zones. The central panel, a broad median band, was reserved for large sculptures. On top of it runs a band with geometric patterns and the lower zone had several small sculpted images of apsaras and their attendants.

3 zones in each panel in the terraces

# Dashavatar – the ten incarnations of Bhagwaan Vishnu – is sculpted on the central zones.

# Vishkanya – Poison Damsel, is a literary figure that appears in Sanskrit literature, a type of assassin used by kings to destroy enemies. Young girls were raised on a carefully crafted diet of poison and antidote from a very young age – who were later used by Kings to seduce enemies and kill them.

# Women’s makeup and personal grooming existed for centuries. If stones could speak these statues would have told all their secrets; how they did their makeup without modern synthetic cosmetic products.

# Patola fabric designs – the sculptors are said to have picked up designs from silk fabrics and cast them on stone. Or was it the other way round?

Patola Fabric Design in Rani ki Vav Step Well Gujarat

# Tridev – the three supreme Gods – Bhagwaan (Lord) Brahma, Bhagwaan Vishnu and Bhagwaan Shiv

Picture of Rani Ki Vav on 100 Rupee Note of India

Government of India issued a series of new notes of different denominations after demonetization and cancellation of old notes in 2016 November. The 100 Rupee note has the picture of Rani ki Vav. Tourists try to photograph that exact frame that is on the currency note.

I couldn’t capture it completely. Try if you can when you are there.

Picture of Rani Ki Vav on 100 Rupee Note of India

How to Reach Ran ki Vav

Queen’s step well is located 123 km north-west of Ahmadabad. It takes two and half hours by road via Ahmedabad – Palanpur Highway Rd/Ahmedabad – Patan Highway Rd. There are plenty of state transport and private taxis that will drop you off at the step well.

Ahmadabad, the old capital of Gujarat, is well connected to other cities by air, rail and road.

Tickets and Timings

Timings: 08:00 am – 07:00 pm
Entry Fee: Rs. 40 for Indians and Rs. 600 for Foreigners

Time Taken to Tour

It can take anywhere between 30 minutes to three hours depending on your interest. If you are keen in photography and videography plan well to spend more time here. You have to buy separate tickets for camera. Stands are not allowed.

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