Desert Safari to Wild Ass Sanctuary in Little Rann of Kutch
Little Rann of Kutch is famous for Indian Wild Ass (khur) or Ghudkar as it is locally called. The Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary (IWAS), also known as the Wild Ass Wildlife Sanctuary, in Rann of Kutch was created in 1973 to provide home to these golden donkeys, as I like to call them. I was lucky to spot the Asiatic Wild Asses during the desert jeep safari to this wild ass sanctuary recently.
The word ‘Little’ in Little Rann of Kutch can be misleading. It is not little as it sounds but a huge area of 5000 sq.km. Little Rann of Kutch is smaller compared to Great Rann of Kutch, together they form India’s largest district – Kutch. (In size, Kutch surpasses the states like Kerala and Haryana.)
If you are following my guide of 4 Days Itinerary of Gujarat with 3 UNESCO sites, Little Rann of Kutch is an ideal place to halt. Sharing with you more information on the Wild Ass sanctuary here, also a quick note on where to stay in Little Rann of Kutch, and how to plan for desert safari.
Elevated plateau in Wild ass sanctuary
About Rann of Kutch
‘Rann’ means desert in Hindi. The word origin is traced to Sanskrit word ‘Irina’ which also means desert. And Kutch means intermittently wet and dry, just as the land is!
Can you believe this whole area was submerged under the Arabian Sea once? Due to tectonic movements, geological uplift and silt brought in by Rivers Saraswati, Sindhu, Rupen and Bans, this are got cut off from sea and formed a huge lake. It is said that people used to navigate across the lake in boats in the times when Alexander the Great came to conquer India.
Visit Little Rann of Kutch during different seasons to see how the landforms vary between an impressive mixture of arid and treacherous salt flats to desert grassland, scrubland, lakes and marshes. It is one of India’s largest natural reserves, hence naturally is home to diverse landscape.
Very unique eco-system that has a unique mix of mangroves and desert vegetation as it is bordered with desert on one side and the sea on the other. The Rann of Kutch is the only large flooded grasslands zone in the whole Indo-Malayan region.
Dry crust of surface Rann of Kutch
The dry crust of surface for most part of the year gives a feel of land bursting under your feet, but during monsoons the same land turns marshy and you are bound to dirty your feet and boots. But who cares, as long as you can spot the ever eluding desert sanctuary’s flora and fauna, the wild asses in particular. It is a quiet haven for nature and wildlife that humans dare not disturb.
The Banni and Vidi grassland of Rann of Kachch, Gujarat, form the coastal grasslands in India. They are spread over beach sand forming a thick mat-like cover. The Wild Ass Sanctuary in this coastal grasslands is included in the tentative list of World Heritage List nominations.
Wild Ass Sanctuary Kutch Gujarat also called Dhrangadhra Wildlife Sanctuary, Bajana Sanctuary
Best Time to Visit Little Rann of Kutch
Plan your trip to the Wild Ass Sanctuary in the months October to March when the monsoon has subsided and most of the stretch is wide open to tourists, visitors and of course the locals. During monsoons, 15th June to 15th October, most part of Rann gets flooded. The Wild Ass Sanctuary is closed to visitors then. March to mid-June is extremely hot, with temperatures soaring to unbearable 40 degrees.
Flamingos in Nava Talao near Dasada in Wild Ass Sanctuary Rann of Kutch
Little Rann of Kutch is the 15th Biosphere Reserve. One reason why you will find different breeds of birds flocking around this region is because it is strategically located on the bird migration route. LRK thus is a perfect feeding, breeding, and roosting ground for many migratory birds.
This sanctuary is home to almost 30 to 35 different types of mammals. Who knows, on a lucky day you may spot some blackbucks, caracals, Indian wolves, striped hyenas, antelopes, or Chinkaras!
The unique topography of Wild Ass sanctuary varies from marshlands, water bodies, parched lands, salt pans, scanty shrubs. This attracts a variety of birds and animals, one reason why Wild Ass sanctuary is the main attraction in Little Rann of Kutch for all animal lovers, bird lovers and wildlife photographers.
Tribes of Little Rann of Kutch
During my stay at the resorts here I could meet up with people from different tribes like Rabaris, Bharvads, Agariyas, and Mirs. These tribes have continued to promote and preserve their beautiful local traditions and culture. Do look up these two women from Little Rann of Kutch in my Instagram posts here and here. Do look at the details of their silver jewelry.
Agariyas are the salt maker or salt farmers of Kutch. Theirs is a tough life. After the monsoons are over and the water has dried up, that is in October, their salt cultivation starts. When you visit Kutch October to March (summers can be very hot) all you will see is miles and miles of white stretch of salt pans. And that makes a different story.
Plan an Open Jeep Safari to Wild Ass Sanctuary
One quick point – Kutch Desert Sanctuary is different, it lies in the Great Rann of Kutch. It is located in north of Little Rann of Kutch which has the Wild Ass Sanctuary.
Fortunately I have been twice to this sanctuary; both times I experienced the open jeep Safari to the sanctuary. I went to the marshy part of the sanctuary during my first trip and to the dry desert in my second trip. Jeep safari is certainly the best way to explore this opulent desert. Since there are no bushes of huge trees, it is difficult for animals to hide and easy for you to spot the animals while driving around.
How many days are needed for Wild Ass Sanctuary?
Depending on your interest you can choose the different locations. If you love both bird watching and also see the desert animals I would recommend you to stay at least three to four days.
The marshlands and Nava Talao are inundated with water birds. Here I saw the flamingos for the first time in my life. Little Rann of Kutch is the only place in Indian sub-continent where you can spot lesser and greater flamingos, so get your zoom lens with you when you visit. The place is dotted with 74 elevated plateaus we were told. During peak of monsoons these turn into little islands called bet.
Flamingo in flight In marshy land of Little Rann of Kutch. Other migratory birds that make a stopover at the Little Rann of Kutch are: Saras Cranes, Desert Wheatears, Lark, the White-browed Bulbul, Indian Coursers, and Pelicans.
Indian Wild Ass Santuary
Equus Heminionus Khur, scientific name of Indian Wild Ass is a member of the horse family. It was once found in countries like Sindh, Baluchistan, Southern Afghanistan and even in South Eastern Iran. Today its existence is limited to some Indian states like Rajasthan, Gujarat, and Maharashtra.
The population of Ghudkhur had declined drastically in the years 1946 to 1973 when the need for this dedicated wild sanctuary was felt. From 1973 onwards their population has increased from 720 to 6082 in the year 2020. But along with it came another problem, that Wild Ass has been implicated for extensive crop damage in agriculture landscape around Little Rann of Kachchh. I guess the human-wildlife conflict will continue in the coming years too.
What do India Wild ass eat?
These Wild Asses feed on a type of grass called suaeda nudiflora, locally called by the name – morad. It belongs to genus of plants known as seepweeds and sea-blites. This species of plant is found in saline or alkaline soil habitats, such as coastal salt-flats and tidal wetlands. The stem is thick with succulent leaves, a characteristic seen in plants that thrive in salty habitats.
During monsoons they have adequate to feed on but as summers set in the Wild Ass moves from one beyt (island) to another in search of water and grass.
Suaeda nudiflora in Kutch Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary
These donkeys can survive in extreme heat and are able to withstand temperature variations from 1degrees minimum to a 50 degrees peak summer. They have a sandy colored coat, which I prefer to call golden. It helps them merge well with surroundings. They measure 210 cm in length and 120 cm in height up to neck. They move around in groups and rarely solo.
While observing them from a distance our guide cautioned us not to get too near. I hadn’t taken my zoom lens both times, regretted it a lot. They can run fast at a speed of 30 km per hour nonstop for two hours! Over a short distance they can get a speed of 70 km per hour. No wonder they are named the Galloping Pride of Rann!
Other names are: Khur (local name), Indian Wild Ass, Asiatic Wild Ass, Indian Wild Donkey, Asian Wild Donkey, Equus Hemionus Khur
Indian Wild Ass in Wild Ass Sanctuary in Little Rann of Kutch Gujarat
Things to Do in Little Rann of Kutch
- Plan for a desert safari to Wild Ass Sanctuary
- Try and reach before the crack of dawn to witness the bewitching sunrise over the marshy lands
- Interact with locals and shop for souvenirs
- Bird photography and animal spotting too
- Look for Wild Ass basking under the shining sun
- Visit the salt pans, understand the life of salt farmers of the Agariyas tribe who migrate to this area in October
Tips for Desert Safari
- For good pictures an early morning visit, much before sunrise, is advisable
- Wear layers of cloths during winters which you can take off as day advances
- During summers wear lighter cloths, not brightly colored one
- Carry an extra footwear just in case you step on soggy marshy patch
- Do not smoke inside the sanctuary or scream as this can frighten the birds and animals away
- Beg, borrow, or rent zoom lens when you head to the sanctuary
- Both morning and jeep safaris are available
- Carry water and light snacks but take care not to litter the place
Location of Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary Rann of Kutch
Little Rann of Kutch is spread over parts of five districts of Gujarat – Kutch, Bansakantha, Patan, Surendranagar and Morbi. The sanctuary is close to Dhrangadhra, hence known by the name Dhrangadhra Wildlife Sanctuary too.
How to reach Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary
By air: The nearest airports are in Ahmedabad (130 km), Rajkot (145km) and Bhuj (200 km).
By rail: Nearest railway station from Dhrangadhra is Ahmedabad (130 km). It has connectivity to all the major cities in India.
By road: Dhrangadhra (18 km) from Little Rann of Kutch is well connected to other important places in the state by public buses and by private vehicles. I travelled to the resorts nearby in private taxi from Ahmedabad.
How to visit the Wild Ass Sanctuary
A personal visit to explore the sanctuary may not be possible. The best way to visit the Wild Ass Sanctuary is with an open jeep safari. When you book your stay in Little Rann of Kutch do check out the options of Jeep Safari they provide. Often Jeep Safaris are a part of the stay packages at the resorts. Other options are to take jeep safaris from Dhrangadhra, Patadi, or Zainabad.
In case you are taking private jeeps do remember to take entry permit from the Forest department at Dhrangadhra and Bajana.
The safari rates are: 600 INR for Indians and 2,000 INR for foreigners (This was when I travelled in Dec 2021.) Guides come at an additional cost of 300 to 400 INR and the jeeps at 2000 to 3000 INR. Camera charges are extra. One jeep accommodates around 6 people.
What Places to Visit from Little Rann of Kutch?
If your traveling in the months from November to February, you can extend your trip to Rann of Kutch to attend the Rann Mahotsav. Read my Rann of Kutch Festival Guide.
After a night halt at Little Rann of Kutch you can visit Rani ki Vav, Modhera Sun Temple, Nadabet, Bhuj and Dholavira.
Where to Stay in Little Rann of Kutch
Many eco friendly resorts have come up around the Indian Wild Ass sanctuary each competing with one another to provide the best to the tourists. I stayed in two different resorts when I visited LRK. They are:
Rann Riders Resort in Dasada, the Royal Safari Camp – another eco-friendly resort, and Royal Safari Camp in Bajana.
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What a beautiful place. Stunning pics and this makes me want to travel there to see it for myself!
This is pretty amazing. I have never visited a safari before. I would love to check this out and see it in person.
That place looks amazing! I’d love to see all those flamingos and donkeys out in the wild. A dream come-true for a wildlife photographer like me.
We have never been to a safari before, just a small wildlife reserve though. I would love to experience a real safari tour. It must be so nice to observe the animals in their natural habitat.
Rann Kutch is really very beautiful place and we are surely going to visit sometime. All the information you provided is very helpful.
My first to hear of it. You wouldn’t want to go when it was too hot, but I do but it is a very unique and enjoyable experience.
Oh wow, what great tips. I’ve never done a dessert safari before but it’s something I would really love to do x
I’ve never been to any wild sanctuary before, this must have been an amazing experience…Soon I get to experience it i hope…