Banteay Srei Temple a Citadel of Women in Siem Reap
Banteay Srei, the name translates to ‘Auspicious City’. Its original Sanskrit name was Isvarapura meaning the ‘City of Shiva’. Long back this temple was known with the name – Tribhuvanamahesvara meaning Lord of three worlds!
The temple however is popular with other names like ‘Citadel of Women’, ‘The Pink Sandstone Temple’. Banteay Srei is also called ‘The Jewel of Khmer Art’ for its incredible sculptures in pink sandstone.
Strange isn’t it; how a temple has so many names! Once I got there it got clearer to me the reasons for its various names. We were on our 4th day tour of Angkor Buddhist and Hindu Temples.
Entrance to Banteay Srei Pink Sandstone Temple
Pediment at Banteay Srei Entrance
Why Banteay Srei Temple is different?
Location of Banteay Srei Temple
This temple is located 20kms north of Angkor Complex. Tuk tuk drivers of Siem Reap charge at least 35$ to 40$ for a trip there. I remember haggling with the tuk tuk driver and bringing the price down to 35$ from 45$. They expect the haggling and that makes the conversations in broken English with them very interesting.
No separate ticket required for Banteay Srei. This temple is included in Angkor Pass.
The drive till Banteay Srei takes at least an hour. The scenery along the way is stunning. You get to see the hill Phnom Dei and rural side of Siem Reap, lush green paddy fields and locals busy in their daily life chores.
Phnom Dei Hill Siem Reap Cambodia
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- Sights of rural side of Siem Reap Cambodia
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- Woman at work in rural Siem Reap
History of Citadel of Women Siem Reap
Banteay Srei Temple is in a small enclosure which can be easily covered in 15-20 minutes. One reason attributed to this is that the temple was not built by any Royal family members but by commoners. They were courtiers Yajnavaraha and Vishnukumara. It would mean disrespect to King to build something grander than theirs.
They used pink sandstone for constructing the temple, that is why Banteay Srei is different from other temples of Angkor. (Pink sandstone has unique properties like durability, hardness and resistance towards rough weather making it apt for sculpting.)
The carvings are stunning as if carved in wood. And some look so fresh just as they were on the day they were chiseled.
Pathway from 4th enclosure to 3rd enclosure
Narasimha ripping apart demon Hiranyakasipu
The walls around are made of bricks and laterite stone, now mostly covered by moss. Temple facades are interesting, each square inch of the surface covered with carvings, the fineness and delicate nature not seen in any other temple of Angkor.
The lintels and pediments tell Ramayana and other mythological stories. Exceptional precision and skill!
There are 4 enclosures, you keep crossing one after another. And the visit ends abruptly. The central portion of the enclosure is out of bounds for tourists. One has to zoom in to the sculpted works to admire the details and believe me they are so exquisite that I was left regretting I couldn’t get a closer view.
Sadly the entire first enclosure is off limits for tourists. I saw fresh flowers in one of the shrines in the center of first enclosure there indicating access is given only to priests and privileged few.
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- Pathway from 3rd to 2nd enclosure.
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- Moat between 3rd and 2nd enclosure
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- Gopuram of 2nd enclosure and shrines inside
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- Pediment on gopuram of 2nd enclosure
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- Intricate work on the pediment
Pink Sandstone Temple Lost and Found
The origin of this temple dates back to 967AD. Yajnyavahara, a counselor of King Rajendravarman built this temple in dedication to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. You will find the central and southern towers dedicated to Lord Shiva. Northern towers are dedicated to Lord Vishnu.
In 11th century some more temples were added. Historian state that during this time the temples were taken over by the then ruling kings. Early 12th century records: the temple was given to the priest Divarakapandita and was rededicated to Shiva. It remained in use at least until the 14th century. There is no further mention of its use after that period.
Fast forward 6 centuries: In the year 1914 this temple was rediscovered by French team. Since then several successful works of renovation was carried out on facades, lintels and pediments to bring it closer to its past glory.
Shrines in first enclosure of Banteay Srei
Banteay Srei Temple Architecture
(for photography enthusiasts)
- Large pediments have attractive sweeping gabled shape. Whole scenes from stories appear on the pediments. Note that the lintels with central figures and kalas on looped garlands look backwards.
- Of all the gopuras of Isvarapura’s outer wall only the fourth eastern gopura has survived the ravage of time. Click that.
- There is a moat between the 4th and the 3rd enclosures.
- The third enclosure has gopuras in east and west of the laterite wall. One of the pediments from here has made way to Paris’s Guimet Museum. This has scene from Mahabharata – demon brothers Sunda and Upasunda fighting over apsara Tilotama.
- There are remains of libraries between second and the third enclosures.
The central shrine of Banteay Srei on a raised platform
- South library’s pediments feature Shiva: to the east Ravana shakes Mount Kailash, with Shiva on the summit; the west pediment has the god of love, Kama, shooting an arrow at Lord Shiva.
- North library’s east pediment features: Indra creates rain to put out a forest fire started by Agni to kill a naga living in the woods; Krishna and his brother aid Agni by firing arrows to stop the rain.
- On the west pediment is Krishna killing his uncle Kamsa.
- One of the most clicked pediments is that of Narasimha, an avatar of Lord Vishnu ripping apart the chest of demon Hiranyakasipu.
- East facing pediment in second enclosure features Sita being seized by demon Viradha (story from Ramayan).
Prayers offered in central shrine
Other places of interest near Banteay Srei
- Cambodia Landmine Museum
- Banteay Samrei Temple included in Angkor Pass
- Trail to Kabal Spean, the Angkor Centre for the Conservation of Biodiversity
- Village walks to know local people and culture.
- Treks to Phnom Hop and Phnom Chrab
- Visit to handicraft enterprises
Tips to tour Banteay Srei
- This is a must include temple in 3 day Angkor pass.
- If you are including Banteay Srei in your one day itinerary of Angkor pass visit it last; in the evening.
- Tour time is max 30 minutes but travel time to Banteay Srei is one hour.
- Protect yourself from harsh sun if you visit it mid day. There is absolutely no shade.
- Washrooms are available near the entrance.
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Banteay Srei’s pink color is already captivating enough for me – the temple really gives such a vibrant hue!
The carvings are so intricate here. The one of Narasimha is so different in appearance as compared to the ones in India. SAd that the visit ended abruptly but then that also, makes me curious to know what else was around.
This looks like an interesting temple and one I’ve not heard of before, I’m only familiar with Angkor Wat in Cambodia! When I make it to Cambodia, I’ll definitely be checking it out!
I have been to Banteay Srei and I could not agree more, it stands out completely from the other temples of Angkor Archaelogical Temple Complex. The pink sandstone makes it look so beautiful. I am glad to see how it is preserved now.
What a beautiful temple to visit. Love the link sandstone and the artwork. I had no idea that you could visit this temple and not need a separate pass
pink sandstone! that’s amazing. I love how humans have so much capability and become creative to build different temples, buildings, etc – especially when it’s hundreds of years ago! This temple seems to be a beautiful place to stop by for sunset too. 🙂
This undeniably is a not to be missed temple. Even the architecture is quite different than the other temples. You have done full justice to the temple in your article.
The details of the carvings on the temple are magnificent! It’s interesting how it has many names! xo – Kam
I love all the decorations and artistry, the Narasimha ripping apart demon Hiranyakasipu markings look incredible, I wouldn’t mind something like that on my wall, but it might look a bit weird in Brighton
The crispness and detail of the carvings in the pink stone are remarkable considering its age. I would love to see this temple and will consider it on any trip to Angkor.
Very useful information. I haven’t seen any of the Temples of Angkor, but wanted to go to Cambodia for a long time. My goal is the Angkor Watt complex, but Banteay Srei Temple looks beautiful and easy to visit. I’ll make sure to add it to the list.
Angkor Wat is magnificent. Unless one travels to Angkor Wat in Cambodia its impossible to guess the beauty of magnanimous structures
The origin of this temple dates back to 967AD. Yajnyavahara, a counsellor of King Rajendravarman built this temple in dedication to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. You will find the central and southern towers dedicated to Lord Shiva. Northern towers are dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Beautiful and deep introduction . These temples gives a note of ancient history but sometime make us proud that our Hindu Culture was so perfect in those days .Yes ! these temples are now Buddhist’s sacred places but their foundation , their history , their design are all set by Hindus.
Those are some great pictures. I love how intricate the carvings are! This looks like a wonderful place to visit!
I was searching about Angkor Wat and came across your website. I must say, you have put quite some time to research and undoubtedly it is one fine piece of article.
Angor Wat is truly an amazing place and now you have highlighted this particular place which I am definitely going to keep in mind.
Thank You! 🙂
Beautiful write and pics Indrani. Loved the details u mention. I would definitely like to visit this place when I go to Cambodia. It’s in my bucket list. Thanks for sharing.
Pink sandstone used for construction is pretty cool and interesting! Banteay Srei does look very different from other Angkor Wat temples (most of which I have seen on your blog, I haven’t visited any) and it’s good to know that it’s a small enclosure than can be covered quickly! I’ve been reading all these blog posts about Angkor Wat on your blog and I really want to go there now!
Wow, this temple is amazing. Being an hour away from Angkor must mean a lot fewer crowds. I love how its included in the Angkor Pass. The drive looks amazing. I love all the views.
The pink sandstone carvings are really marvelous, I love the details! I love temples in general, but those in Cambodia are really fascinating, and this is no exception!
I read your previous post about Angkor, and since I’ve never been to the place yet, this got me even more curious. Really good to hear you share a lot of information especially why this Banteay which is really so new to my ears differ from the other temples. Those pink Sandstone is really impressive and just from the photos I could see how different it is basing on the different photos I see from your previous post. Got really hooked of those different names. Great post by the way.
The pink sandstone definitely lends a different quality to Banteay Srei Temple. Those carvings are beautiful. And the scenic drive to Banteay Srei looks like an experience in itself. Thanks, I’m learning so much about the temples of Angkor from your blog posts.
It was indeed interesting that this temple had so many names. Being so far out of town, it is understandable why so few people have visited. The pink sandstone buildings at the Banteay Srei Temple were beautiful under any name. I did not know that pink limestone was so much more durable. We certainly saw the damage to sandstone that the environment and time can do when we visited Prague. The site definitely looks like it is worth haggling with the tuk tuk drivers to visit.
I have been to Angkor Wat and to Banteay Seri. However your blog has told me many things that I did not know. Thanks.
You have so much detail of what is on offer at Banteay Srei. The pink sandstone carvings are so intricate too – I do hope I get a chance to visit myself. I also like the fact that it is not a massive site – so offers the opportunity to really understand the temple properly
What an interesting read. It’s incredible that the temple survived 6 centuries. It must be the pink limestone. I’m bummed that we didn’t visit Banteay Srei when we had our Angkor Wat passes. Great to read more about it and will definitively not miss this temple on our next trip back to Cambodia.
987 AD? that must make it one of the older temples in the area, no? It’s amazing how many stunning temples Angkor has way outside the main archaeological park.
I didn’t know anything about Banteay Srei before reading this. How fascinating that it was originally built by commoners and that it essentially disappeared! Thank goodness the French team re-discovered it and that efforts have been made for refurbishing it. How very cool! Thanks for sharing!
How fascinating. Imagine being on the French team who uncovered this! Pity you couldn’t get closer but we’re lucky that you had a long lens. I’m happy to hear about alternatives to the most touristy places in Angkor.
I have yet to make it to Cambodia and I’ve never heard about Banteay Srei Temple. I guess because most visitors are more interested in the famous Angkor Watt complex? Since it’s already included to the 3 days Angkor Pass, I would definitely explore this temple too. Those temple facades are indeed fascinating! Thanks for sharing the detailed informations with us 🙂
Wow! Glad to know about this wonderful temple.