Banteay Samre – Exploring This Underrated Khmer Temple in Siem Reap
Banteay Samre was one of those rare temples in Angkor where we were the only family touring it. This was on our way back from Banteay Srei. The tuk tuk driver of Siem Reap insisted we visit the Banteay Samre Temple and we are so glad we listened to him. One has to detour a bit from the route connecting Banteay Srei and Siem Reap, but it is definitely worth it.
Tuk tuks aren’t permitted till the entrance of the temple. We got off on the main road and walked few hundred meters to reach the entrance to Banteay Samre. It was very evident Banteay Samre temple is neglected more by the authorities compared to other temples for whatever reasons best known to them. No guards were around and I anticipated a near ruin structure inside. But what I found inside was exactly opposite.
Banteay Samre is in a far better condition than TaPhrom or Banteay Kdei! I cherish my visit to this temple a lot because we were the only family exploring the temple then. The stillness and serenity around this temple is magical. I found the lacking of same effect in other temples of Angkor.
History of Banteay Samre Temple
Banteay Samre was built during the reign of Suryavarman II and Yasovarman II in early 12th century. This is a Hindu Temple built in style similar to that of Angkor Wat only that is not as huge as Angkor Wat. The height of the temple is an indication that probably the temple was built by some high official in the court and not by the King himself.
Banteay in Khmer language means citadel. Samre was an ancient ethnic Indochinese tribe. So the name indicates the temple was Citadel of Samre tribe. Another legend that is popular about this temple is that it was named after a farmer. Under unavoidable conditions he killed the king and then made to ascend the throne.
This temple was discovered in early 20th century. The French project overlooking all these temples cleaned and enhanced the temple looks. Much of what is seen today is due to the restoration and anastylosis done by French team during 1936-1944. Since there is lack of evidence and no discovery of inscriptions detailed history of Banteay Samre temple is not available.
Banteay Samre – Exploring This Underrated Khmer Temple in Siem Reap
The best approach to Banteay Samre Temple is from the east direction. Two lions, which look impressive even in their ruined state, guard the east entrance. Naga balustrades and these lions bear a remarkable similarity with that of Angkor. But if you are coming from the main road you land at the North side of the temple.
First Enclosure of Banteay Samre
North Gopura is impressive with fine art work on the lintel. Huge laterite wall, 6m high, makes it look more like a fort than a temple. At the north entrance you climb up a few steps, cross the wall and go down another short series. You will find yourself repeating this process several times in the unique interior layout of Banteay Samre Temple. There are gopuras with elaborate carvings on the lintels in other 3 walls too.
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- North Gopura Banteay Samre
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- A scene from Ramayan
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- The pace within walls of first enclosure
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- Windows of first enclosure
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- Passage along the wall of first enclosure
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- Believed to be remains of Buddha’s feet.
Second Enclosure
Inside you face another enclosure, you cross this to get to the main shrine inside.
This second enclosure measures 83m by 77m. There is gallery around this, the roof missing, indicating it was probably made of wood which has withered away with time. Lintels and pediments of this enclosure have sculpted images depicting stories from Ramayan and other Hindu mythological stories.
I read up in several sites that in its heydays this shrine must have been the center of activity and worship in the region of Baray.
Inner moat of Banteay Samre
A dream in Banteay Samre…
Sharing my dream scene here – the inner moat filled with water; some lilies growing in there. Add some floating lamps and rows of lamps along the parapet and balustrades. Imagine the twilight hour; women and men in their traditional attire arrive in groups with their offerings. They walk down the steps into the moat, wade through water a few steps, and then climb on to the steps of the second enclosure. Can you hear some musicians at one end playing their religious music. It would have been magical, I am sure! How beautiful the place would have looked under a full moon lit sky! I am not a poetess and I fail in my words here, but I enjoyed visualizing this scene.
How many thousands of people must have walked these very portals once! Today it looks barren. Tender green shoots peeping up here and there and no other sign of life. Only stillness prevails! Like I said before, I will cherish my visit to this temple for long.
Inner Enclosure of Banteay Samre Temple
I wonder why Banteay Samre is so underrated among the Khmer temples of Siem Reap? Walking into the inner enclosure I find it is in a good state, lot better than some of the ruined temples within Angkor complex. Inner enclosure has the central shrine on a raised platform. The single tower over the central shrine is similar to that in Angkor Wat.
There are low galleries around this temple’s core pavilion. A gallery in the east from this main shrine connects to the mandapa and from that to the east gopura. Other similar features are the layout and positioning of the ‘libraries’ in the east end and the series of galleries encircling the temple’s core pavilions. Inside the mandapa is a stone tomb with a lid on it and a small drain at the bottom.
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- Carvings on lintel
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- Inner chamber of main shrine.
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- Banteay Samre – Exploring This Underrated Khmer Temple
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- Library in the right and north goura
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- The library. Note the window for ventillation.
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- East Gopra of Banteay Samre.
[“It is believed to be some form of sarcophagus, enabling the procedure of periodic ablution of mortal remains which may have been entombed here.” (from A guide to Angkor Monuments by Maurice Glaize.)]
The Resident Cat Family in Banteay Samre
As we stepped in we found the only residents of this shrine are a cat family. Initially the mama cat was alarmed sensing our presence and thought us to be a threat to her 2 kittens, but soon she settled down to a nap. And the frightened kittens scurried around maintaining a good distance from us. I went around photographing while my daughters got busy cajoling and comforting the kittens.
At many places the carvings are defaced or worn out. Whatever remains do tell stories. I could decipher several mythological scenes from the carvings. The whole experience here was good, definitely worth the time and effort required to reach here.
Tips to visit Banteay Samre Siem Reap
- Strictly not advisable for 1 day Angkor Pass.
- Include Banteay Samre in 3 day and 7 day Angkor pass.
- Combine this temple with Banteay Srei, Kabal Spean and Beng Mealea.
- Relaxed tour time can take 1 hour if not more. In half an hour you can do a hurried visit too.
- Take water with you as there are no shops around.
- No toilet facilities too.
- You can plan this at the end of day too and get good colorful skies as backdrop.
Wow! What an incredible set of ruins in Banteay Samre. Some of the architecture is so well preserved. Great shots of the ruins; love the deyail. I hope to get to Indonesia someday.
What caught my attention in this post was the dream sequence you created. Imagination is such a powerful tool and what a huge difference it can make. Realities can be altered and perceptions can change within seconds!
Wow, to be able to have the whole place to yourself is awesome! And even better to have it be in such good condition. Love your photos of the temple (and the cute kittens!).
I love your dream scene. It would have been magical to witness. There is so much to see at the temples in Angor that I found it a bit of an overload, but thanks to this post I have been able to relive my visit and enjoy it again. Thank you!
Its always great to explore a place when no one is there, you feel like you have discovered something. Banteay Samre indeed looks magical. After having explored Bagan in Myanmar, Angkor Wat and other Khemer Temple complexes. Banteay Samre is added.
Such a gorgeous temple! Love that there’s a little cat family there, they look so cute! I still need to visit Angkor Wat so that will be first on my list, but if I have time I’ll certainly add this to my itinerary!
I love it when I get great tips from locals, especially when it gets me off the tourist trail. It looks like you had good fortune with the Banteay Samre Temple. Those 12th century carvings…it’s incredible to think they could do all of that with their hands and some tools.
I love that the area was not protected yet well preserved. I’m also curious as to why it is underrated. I would love to explore it; those carvings are gorgeous
Thanks so much for this wonderful tour – its been over 17 years since I visited this temple and glad to see that it still remains the same with no major deterioration crowds for that matter!
I actually visited this beautiful place on my last visit to Cambodia. You have truly captured the essence of the awesome place. And well researched too! Thanks!
OMg these are absolutely gorgeous!!! photos like these remind me just how big the world is and how much beauty is out there. Thank you for sharing!!
I remember this place. We visited this last month during our trip to Siem Reap and I am so fascinated by the temples in Angkor.
They’re beautiful and very interesting. I am planning to go back again. This time with my family.
I can’t believe that building has been around since the 12th century. It is so beautiful.
Amazing temple and I am glad it is more peaceful than some at Angkor Wat. Totally loving those temples but of course, being a wonder of the world, totally overrun with folks too. Less well known but beautiful gems like these are my favorite places because you have them a bit more to your self. Tweeted for you.
Ryan
How many temples are there in total n this complex ?
So beautiful. I really want to visit. Seems like I am going to need a good amount of time to explore and see all. Another temple to add to the list.
Such a beautiful piece of architecture. Brings back wonderful memories! I love the photos of the kittens as well! You did a great job capturing the scene 🙂
This temple is so beautiful, and in such great condition, it seems strange that it’s not more well known. I loved looking at your photos, the temple looks so quiet and restful, and the cats are pretty gorgeous too!
I’m not sure if I visited this one – I did visit some temples outside Angkor. It looks really nice and it’s amazing how well preserved it seems to be. Let’s hope that Siem Reap survives these floods of tourist groups…
That’s a pretty temple devoid of crowd. Glad to know about it.
Wow the temple is stunning! I can’t believe no-one else was there, how wonderful! It really pays to listen to the locals 🙂 I’m intrigued by the legend of the farmer – what possible unavoidable conditions would mean he had to kill the king?? How mysterious!
The temples of Angkor are all so magnificent. Interesting that it was a French team that restored it. This one really does look still and peaceful, were you the only one visiting?
How beautiful is this temple, and how lucky you were on your own to explore? The carvings are beautiful. I would definitely be interested in visiting if I was in the country
Banteay Khmer, although much smaller than Angkor Wat, seems like another fantastic temple to explore. I can’t believe it is as old as the early 12th century! There’s so much historical treasure in Cambodia, I need to get there! I love how beautifully the walls of the temple are carved and I guess one of the biggest advantages of visiting underrated places is that they’re not too crowded and thus, easier to explore. Thanks for the tips!
Its a shame that they were restoring it with ideas rather than the proof that is required for sites today. But it looks like a gorgeous place with the greenery mixed in. Interesting.
What a beautiful temple Banteay Samre is. I have to confess I love the pictures of the cats too! So wonderful they’ve found their own home.