Athangudi Palace, Heritage Mansions in Karaikudi and Chettinad
Athangudi Palace is a Heritage Mansion in Chettinad. On reaching the gates of this mansion I was stupefied how it stands out so prominently due to its sheer size and grandeur. Athangudi Palace belongs to Sri MAM Ramaswamy and family and is still being maintained well by its present owner, a descendant of the same family. It was forenoon when we reached there, the mansion was near empty left all to us to explore.
More than 50% of Chettinad Tourism is due to these heritage mansions, Chettinad houses and palaces and then for the Chettinad Temples. We got lost couple of times while searching for this palatial mansion. But not the ones to give up easily we traced its location finally!
Walking Tour of Athankudi
Before touring the palace we walked around exploring the old Chettinad houses, some abandoned, some occupied but begging for repairs, in the town of Athankudi. The old Chettinad mansions, ones in crumbling state, stunned us. The facades with ancient art are left uncared. Paints peeling off, parts crumbling down, they looked a very sad version of the glorious state they had once.
I was reminded of the Rampuria Haveli of Bikaner in Rajasthan, which has a similar story. Rich owners abandoned their homes seeking greener pastures in foreign land. Government has banned demolish of such mansions, but the maintenance charges that is being provided is too less, one of the owners complained.
Athangudi is 8km west of Chettinadu. You can take a tour of Athangudi Tile manufacturing units and some old temples here.
Athangudi Palace Karaikudi Chettinad
First and foremost, the tour of Athangudi Palace is not free. Though actual owners reside in cities, the mansion is looked after by their managers. For a small amount he allowed photography inside the mansion. Though he sounded proud of the heritage he has inherited he sounded quite worried too.
One of the owners said the property was worth crores of rupees and there are more than 200 inheritors to this Athangudi mansion.
Sri MAM Ramaswamy Athangudi Palace
This is the picture of the owner who built this mansion more than a century back. His descendants and their extended families all throng the mansion during ceremonies and festivals. There are more than 100 rooms in the mansion I was told.
During family gathering enormous amount of food is cooked and the dining room is more than 50 ft. in length. As it is used extensively, the mansion requires frequent repairs and it is equivalent to keeping an elephant as pet, as they say colloquially.
Origin of Palaces in Karaikudi and Chettinad
Chettiar community during the reign of Chola dynasty traded salt, rice, spices, other essential items and even precious gems from Coromandel Coast to countries like Ceylon (now Sri Lanka), Burma (now Myanmar) and south east Asian countries.
But due to devastating effects of cyclones and destruction of their settlement along the coast they migrated to safer regions. Some say it was a huge Tsunami that forced the Chettiar community to migrate inwards settle in 96 villages of Chettinad region.
So paranoid they were of the might of sea that they preferred land locked regions and often build their houses in a elevated foundation. That explains why the mansions are all higher than ground level. And they were nick named Nattu Kottai Chettiars – the ones who build fort on land.
Years back families here prospered well. From business they flourished so well that they turned to banking. Chettiars had good business relations with South and South East Asian countries and even with British East India Company.
But sadly, their fortunes dwindled and many abandoned their home state for better opportunities.
The ceiling is fantabulous! I kept gaping at it till my neck hurt.
Chettinad Houses now Hotels
The Chettinad region of Tamil Nadu has several such mansions. Most of them are in ruins, some have totally worn out facades but the interiors are grand and very few like this Athangudi Mansion is in good condition, inhabited and in use.
Some houses have been converted in to heritage hotels and homestays. They cost a bomb nevertheless worth an experience.
Interior of Athangudi Palace Karaikudi Chettinad
I have never seen such grand interiors in residential houses, no wonder these Karaikudi houses are known as palaces. The floors, walls, ceiling are lined with stunning tiles. Most of them are Athangudi tiles.
These mansions require serious attention from Government. They have to be repaired and restored; else time will leave its permanent irreparable mark on these!
Details of pillar, sculpted and designed in teak wood.
Such huge sprawling verandah area had a purpose. It was reception area for guests and also for entertaining business dealings. The walls, ceilings and floor area were made with Italian marble or Spanish tiles and Belgian glass.
They had such rich taste, often they would load their ships with such exotic decorations on their way back home from the European destinations.
Grand Thinnai of Heritage Mansion of Chettinadu
Kanadukuthan Palace
This place is at a walking distance from Chettinadu. Architecture of the Kanadukathan Palace is stunning. Entrances to the houses seem like those that are there for temples. The entire area is best explored on foot.
Google Map of Chettinadu-Kanadukathan-Athangudi-Karaikudi Tamil Nadu
Again I found the use of peacock theme in art and architecture of Chettinadu mansions. Check the peacock patterns here: Rajasthan Architecture.
Walking Tour of Karaikudi
Around 13.6km from Chettinadu there is this town of Karaikudi which has some ancient mansions. Since we were on a road trip tour of Chettinad we extended our travel to Karaikudi. We intended to have lunch at the famed Bangala restaurant which is a must visit to get a taste of Chettinad.
After a sumptuous lunch of authentic Chettinad cuisine in the Bangala Restaurant we set out to find Chettiar House in the lanes of Karaikudi. Following are few pictures from the interior of the Chettiar Mansion.
Architecture of Chettiar Mansion
We were lucky that there was some one to guide us around. I have featured him in my Faces of India series. Check: Faces of India – 184
He really took pains to explain the various architectural details of Chettinad houses. I lost track of the local words/names he kept using.
A door frame of Burma Teak and with murals on arch over the frame with image of Hindu Goddess
Just see the colors! Bright and beautiful! One has to remember that there were no synthetic paints available then. All these colors were made with local vegetable dyes. Chettinad home structures were made of high quality materials, the proof is they have lasted more than a lifetime! Rich in craftsmanship, they are built with care to battle the heat and humidity of the tropical south.
I was amazed when the caretaker explained that the walls are made of baked bricks, bonded by fiber roots and coated with egg shells and egg whites. I was like egg whites? are you sure?! The silky smooth finish of the walls and floors is the proof, he asserted. These walls and floors are washable with no loss of quality in luster.
This is just one of the beautiful window frames of MSMM House Karaikudi
Handmade tiles on ceilings – Athangudi Palace Karaikudi Chettinad
Other Things to Do in Chettinad
- Markets of Chettinad, Karaikudi and Athangudi are worth a visit. Antique stuffs, some of them were part of dowry of Chettiyar brides, are available.
- Attend a tile making process displayed in some small scale home industries of Athangudi.
- Chettinad is famous for its humble cotton textiles. Visit Chettinad weaving centers to see the weaving process of stunning Chettinad cotton sarees.
- Several temples around are worth a visit. Pillayarpatti Temple with unique statue of Bhagwan Ganesh is the most famous one here.
- Lip smacking, finger licking Chettinad cuisine is served in most restaurants here. We were there for more than a day so we checked out different Chettinad restaurants.
- You can plan a trip around May to see Festival of Horses
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(This post was first published on June 30th 2014.)
The Chettinad region of Tamil Nadu has several such mansions. Most of them are in ruins, some have totally worn out facades but the interiors are grand and very few like this Athangudi Mansion is in good condition, inhabited and in use. Years back families here prospered well. Very informative post equally supported by pictures !!
incredible architecture, stuming fotos; Greeting from Belgium
So appreciate the happy colors and attention to detail of this culture!
Glorious images with lots of information!
Hari OM
What a stunning place!!! It is true that such beauties are often lost to posterity due to the costs of upkeep. Sad indeed. YAM xx
Nice, Beautiful and especially Colorfull. Good choice.
Indrani, this is an incredibly beautiful place and I can imagine that its upkeep must cost a fortune. It would be a terrible shame to let it fall into disrepair.
I have so much enjoyed this pictoral history as I do anything you write/photograph.
Such a beatifull, colorfull building! And very well shot!
This is one of my favorite places in Tamil Nadu. This building also features in many Tamil movies :)There are so many similar buildings that have been demolished and their interiors including the pillars are sold. There are many antiques shops nearby also. So happy to see them here!
Wonderful photos…. Incredible work…:)
Looks so beautiful and grand! Nice post.
What a beautiful place! Enjoyed your photos. Thanks for visiting my blog! 🙂
Fascinating place. I like the details you showed us.
It is an incredibly beautiful place. I can't imagine how much it must cost to maintain.
Amazing place 🙂 Stunning captures 🙂
It's great that the owner is keeping the mansion in good shape. I'm sure it's very expensive to do so!
Incredible..! I have always wanted to visit a chettinad palace/mansion. I enjoyed visiting it virtually here..
What Grandeur, Fitting even for a king. its nice that common people with lived in such house with the money they made.
What a beautiful and colorful mansion! Lovely photos..Enjoy your week!
What a grand mansion! No wonder the maintenance cost is huge. Terrific shots, Indrani.
Wow – the interior is stunning! Great shots.
it's grandiose. i can understand that maintenance can be excessive and prohibitive.
What grandeur! I have been wanting to go to Chettinad for a long time but it just isn't materializing… enjoyed visiting this mansion through this post.
Oh wow, no wonder you gaped at the ceiling it is gorgeous….the whole house is, no wonder it costs so much to maintain.
my goodness! all that detail!
Wow, such a grand mansion. This looks more of a museum than a house in use..
This is a gorgeous mansion. I can imagine how much the upkeep on this place must cost, but I'm glad it is still open and that you were able to get these wonderful photos.
What an incredibly beautiful place, Indrani!! Terrific photos as always! The colors and details are awesome! Hope you have a great new week!!