Ueno Toshogu Shrine: Tokyo’s Hidden Edo-Era Treasure
Nestled in the heart of Ueno Park, Ueno Tōshōgū is a captivating glimpse into Japan’s rich Shinto heritage and a tribute to the legendary Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The historic and religious significance of this Ueno Toshogu Shrine drew me in to its serene atmosphere and stunning golden architecture. While there are many Tōshōgū shrines across Japan—most famously in Nikkō—this one felt special.
Walking through its ornate gates and admiring the intricate carvings up close, the craftsmanship and history it embodies blew me off my mind. Photography is allowed here so it’s easy to see why it has become such a major attraction in Tokyo.
Read on to know the brief history, significant features, major highlights, interesting facts, and architectural details of Ueno Toshogu Shrine.
The Golden Shrine
Ueno Toshogu Shrine brief History
Ueno Tōshōgū Shrine was built in 1627 to honour Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, who played a pivotal role in unifying Japan after a long period of civil war. After his death in 1616, Ieyasu was deified as Tōshō Daigongen, a guardian deity, and shrines were constructed across Japan to venerate him.
The construction of the Ueno Toshogu Shrine in Tokyo was initiated by Tōdō Takatora, a prominent daimyo and loyal supporter of Ieyasu. He commissioned the shrine to solidify Ieyasu’s spiritual presence and influence in the heart of Edo (now Tokyo), which was the political center of Japan under the Tokugawa rule. It was also built to serve pilgrims who found it difficult to travel all the way to Nikkō, home to the famous Nikkō Tōshōgū Shrine.
This reminded me of a similar tradition in South India, where the Kashi Vishwanath Temple
was built in Tenkasi for devotees who couldn’t journey to Kashi in North India.
Ueno Toshogu shrine was later expanded and renovated under the direction of Tokugawa Iemitsu, the third shogun, in 1651. This expansion added many of the ornate features, including the iconic Karamon Gate and elaborate carvings, which showcase the architectural grandeur of the Edo period.
The shrine was constructed using the finest materials and craftsmanship of the time, symbolizing both the shogunate’s power and Ieyasu’s enduring legacy. Positioned in what is now Ueno Park, the shrine served not only as a religious site but also as a political statement, reinforcing the Tokugawa family’s authority and promoting the worship of Ieyasu as a divine protector of the nation.
Shish Guardian Dog
Ueno Toshogu Shrine Tokyo-Architecture Highlights
Entrance – Magnificent Stone Torii
As I approached the shrine, the first thing that caught my eye was the magnificent stone torii gate, a unique and powerful symbol marking the boundary between the sacred and the secular. I learned that this gate had stood strong through the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, while many others had collapsed. Remarkably, it didn’t move an inch, making it a precious part of the architecture of Ueno Toshogu shrine.
A torii is a traditional Japanese gate most commonly found at the entrance of or within a Shinto shrine, where it symbolically marks the transition from the mundane to the sacred, and a spot where kami are welcomed and thought to travel through.
Giant Lanterns
Beyond the torii, a long pathway stretched out before me, leading to the main shrine building. Lining the path were over 200 stone lanterns and 48 bronze ones, perfectly arranged in quiet harmony. The lanterns further away from the shrine building are mostly made of stone, while those closer to it are of bronze. They were used for rituals such as sacred fires but are currently not in use. It must be quite a sight to see them all lit up at night.
The names of the donors and the dates are inscribed on each lantern. I wish I had more time to fully take in the intricate details of each lantern. They all seemed to whisper stories of the past, waiting to be discovered. If you have the chance, I highly recommend pausing to seek out a particularly remarkable one—the 6.8 m stone lantern. Towering over the others with its weathered, time-worn appearance, it truly stands out. Nicknamed the ‘Monster Lantern’ for its imposing size, it exudes a quiet, ancient majesty that’s hard to miss. This lantern is considered one of the three great stone lanterns of Japan, with the other two located at Nanzenji Temple in Kyoto and Atsuta Shrine in Nagoya.
Giant Lanterns Toshogu Shrine Tokyo
Tōrō are traditional Japanese lanterns made of metal, stone, or wood. Their forebears came originally from China. Lanterns are common in Chinese gardens and Buddhist temples, sometimes in Korea and Vietnam too.
Tōshōgū Pagoda
Beyond the fence that surrounds Toshogu Shrine, located in the Ueno Zoo, we saw a five-story pagoda said to be 380 years old. This wooden pagoda was once part of the Ueno Tōshōgū Shrine grounds and known as the Tōshōgū Pagoda, reflecting the historical blending of Shinto and Buddhist practices. During the Meiji era, when the government enforced the separation of these religions, many Buddhist structures within shrine grounds were destroyed. To protect the pagoda, the chief priest rebranded it as the Kaneiji Pagoda, claiming it belonged to Kaneiji Temple. This clever move preserved the pagoda, which was later donated to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government and eventually transferred to Ueno Zoo.
Tōshōgū Pagoda
The outer grounds of Ueno Tōshōgū Shrine, up to the Karamon Gate, are free to explore, making it a great option if you’re traveling on a budget. However, if you’d like to go beyond the Karamon Gate for a closer look at the Honden (the main hall), there’s a small entry fee of 500 yen. Keep in mind that while you can admire the stunning architecture up close, the shrine itself remains closed to the public, so entering the building isn’t an option. Even so, the detailed craftsmanship and rich history make the visit worthwhile.
Karamon
The front gate, with its distinctive bow-shaped arch, is known as the Karamon, or karahafu roof style gate. Built in 1651, it stands as a stunning example of traditional Japanese craftsmanship. The gate is richly adorned with gold foil and features intricate hand-carved motifs of flowers and birds that embellish both the doors and the side panels. You can take as many pictures you wish as photography is free.
On either side of the Karamon Gate stand two intricately carved dragons on the gate pillars, known by the names Noboriryu, the Ascending Dragon and Kudariryu, the Descending Dragon. Thanks to some prior reading, I knew exactly where to look and easily spotted these stunning sculptures. Interestingly, their names might seem a bit misleading: the dragon looking upward is actually the Descending Dragon, while the one facing downward is the Ascending Dragon.
These remarkable carvings are the work of Hidari Jingorō, a celebrated sculptor from the Edo period. According to local legend, the pair of dragons sneak away at midnight to drink from the nearby Shinobazu Pond. If that really happens, it must be a magical sight to behold!
Karamon gate
Ticket Counter
If you’ve purchased a ticket, you can enter through the side gate and step into the inner sanctum. The shrine is surrounded by a beautifully crafted latticed wall, known as a sukibei (translates to transparent fence, but is in fact a latticed fence), which gracefully marks the boundary between the sacred and the secular. This delicate yet imposing structure not only defines the shrine’s inner precinct but also evokes a sense of quiet reverence.
Prayer Hall
Let me take you through my tour inside the sukibei. As I stepped in, the first thing I noticed on my right was the open-space praying pavilion—a serene area designated for worship. Its simplicity held a quiet charm. Interestingly, the Meditation Pavilion features a roof constructed from a fallen ancient ginkgo, which had long stood as a fire prevention tree for the shrine, protecting it through the centuries.
Ginkgo biloba, commonly known as ginkgo, also known as the maidenhair tree, is a species of gymnosperm tree native to East Asia. The Ginkgo biloba is one of the oldest living tree species in the world. It’s the sole survivor of an ancient group of trees that date back to before dinosaurs roamed the Earth – creatures that lived between 245 and 66 million years ago. It’s so ancient, the species is known as a ‘living fossil’.
Ginkgo Tree in Toshogu Shrine Tokyo
Camphor Tree
Further along, we came across a magnificent sacred camphor tree, towering and majestic. Believed to be over 600 years old, this ancient tree stood as a silent witness to history, its presence exuding a sense of timeless reverence.
Toshogu – The Golden Shrine
Next, we crossed a fence to face façade of the Honden (the main building) of Toshogu Shrine. The once black-lacquered façade has been blanketed in a generous helping of gold leaf, earning the nickname, “The Golden Shrine.” The Honden is always closed so tourists often click pictures from outside and move on. I read up that the Worship Hall (haiden), Offertory Hall (heiden), and Main Hall (honden) are all connected under the same roof by an intermediate hallway.
Doors of Toshogu Shrine-featuring wheels of dharma suggest a syncretic blending of Shinto and Buddhist influences
Polychromatic Creatures
Unable to get in I looked around andmy attention was arrested by menagerie of colourful, playful creatures in the fence, gate and facade of Ueno Toshogu. There are 257 openwork panels with various creatures carved on them. Here, I had the chance to admire the renowned carved figures created using the ikeshikisai technique. This intricate process involves applying gold leaf to the carvings, followed by layers of mineral pigments in delicate gradients. The result is stunning—slivers of gold subtly peek through the paint, creating a unique, three-dimensional effect that brings the figures to life with remarkable depth and brilliance.
Records mention: At the time of the renovation, approximately 110,000 sheets of 15-square-centimer Kaga gold leaf were used. The restoration work in Ueno Toshogu shrine was carried out with help of Ueno Zoo from 2003 to 2013. When the team removed the red iron oxide topcoat, they found the original colors had been stripped away by earlier restorations.
To restore the wall accurately, they first identified each creature’s species, with birds proving the most challenging. For this, they enlisted the neighboring Ueno Zoo, which provided access to its aviary for reference.
Kano Tanyu, a foremost painter of the Kano school, oversaw the ornamentation work at Ueno Toshogu.
Polychromatic creatures-Java Sparrows on sukibei, lattice fence
If you are traveling there with kids, you can involve them to enjoy the trip asking them to spot out:
- Animals like: Shishi watchdog, Phoenixes, Praying mantis, Rat, Wild boars
- Birds like: Java sparrows, Gallant kestrels, Pheasants, Rooster
- Flowers like: Hibiscus, Bellflower, Peonies and more…
The interior of the Karamon Gate is richly adorned with intricate carvings. The panels almost tell a story, featuring traditional motifs of pine, bamboo, and plum, symbolizing resilience and prosperity. Among these, a striking detail caught my eye—a rooster elegantly perched on a taiko drum. There is a Chinese legend to this: the emperor placed a drum in front of the palace’s gates as a gauge of public opinion. When the townspeople were dissatisfied with the emperor’s governance, they would angrily bang the drum. When his reign was just, the drum would fall silent. As a result, the rooster who nested on a silent drum came to represent peace and a wish for harmony in the land.
How to Pray in Japanese Shrine
A stone pool has some water. I guess it was for washing your hands before praying. Locals seek good fortune, academic success and health. A board there explains how to pray in Japanese style in shrines:
- Bow respectfully two times.
- Clap your hands twice
- Deeply and respectfully bow again one time
- Finally, lightly bow once before leaving
Stone pool
Ueno Toshogu Peony Garden
The Ueno Toshogu Peony Garden, opened in April 1980 to celebrate Japan-China friendship, features over 500 peony plants from 110 varieties in spring and 160 plants from 40 varieties in winter. The garden’s plants are sheltered under charming straw huts and mats to protect them from harsh weather. The Kan-botan peonies bloom in spring and again at the year’s end, though winter flowers are smaller with fewer leaves and blooms. Be sure to check ahead if the garden is open, as it closes when peonies aren’t in bloom—your hotel desk can assist with this.
Ueno Toshogu Peony Garden
Eiyo Gongen Sha
On my way out I caught a glimpse of Eiyo Gongen Sha shrine. It was almost 40 minutes and there still lots to see in Ueno Park yet I did pause to get a frame of the shrine. This shrine has a wooden figure of a tanuki raccoon dog, wrapped in a surplice. It is a symbol of good fortune, especially for students hoping to ace their entrance exams.
Eiyo Gongen Sha
How to Reach Ueno Tōshōgū Shrine, Tokyo
Ueno Tōshōgū Shrine is conveniently located within Ueno Park, making it easily accessible by public transport:
By Train: Take the JR Yamanote Line, Keihin-Tohoku Line, or Joban Line to Ueno Station. Alternatively, use the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line or Hibiya Line to Ueno Station. We took this option. From the station, it’s about a 5-minute walk to the park entrance, and the shrine is just a short stroll inside the park.
By Bus: Several local buses stop at Ueno Park. Look for routes heading towards Ueno Eki.
By Taxi: Very costly option-Taxis are readily available throughout Tokyo. Just mention Ueno Park or Ueno Tōshōgū Shrine.
On Foot: If you’re already in the Ueno area or visiting nearby attractions like Tokyo National Museum or Ueno Zoo, the shrine is within easy walking distance.
Once inside Ueno Park, follow the signs toward the shrine, nestled amidst historical landmarks and serene gardens. A good map will be super helpful.
Timings: Toshogu Shrine opening hours from 9 AM to 5.30 PM
Tickets: Toshogu Shrine tickets cost 500 yen, Peony Garden tickets to be taken separately. Cost: 700 yen
Conclusion
As I glanced at my watch, I realized we had spent a good 40 minutes immersed in the beauty of Ueno Toshogu Shrine—time had slipped away unnoticed. The serene atmosphere within its walls made it easy to forget the bustling city just beyond the gates. It’s incredible to think that such a tranquil sanctuary exists in the heart of Tokyo, one of the world’s most futuristic and dynamic cities.
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Indrani Ghose is an Indian Travel Writer and Blogger based in Bangalore, India. She has written for numerous publications across the globe – including Lonely Planet, The National UAE, Whetstone Asia, Deccan Herald. You can follow her on her social media handles Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest and Facebook to see the wonderful destinations, beautiful offbeat places and get instant updates about them.
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