Tour of Mezquita – Cathedral of Cordoba Spain

The Mezquita Mosque-Cathedral in Córdoba, one of Spain’s finest Islamic buildings — a top sight to visit in Andalucía topped my list of must see places in Cordoba.

If you have been following my travel through Spain this far you will know of the adventurous experience I had on reaching Seville after a long drive from Granada. But for the kind women we would have been forced spend the night in the car. Read here –> Miraculous end to Road Trip from Granada to Seville

After the night halt at Seville we set off on road trip to Coordoba.

Road trip Cordoba to Seville sights

Road Trip Seville to Cordoba

Another hectic plan for the day! After the near tiresome day at Granada and drive from Granada to Seville I was surprised to see the family all eager and full of energy for the next road trip. 141kms to Cordoba!

Rental cars are a boon particularly when travel as a family. Tickets for 4 of us in public transport could cost a lot compared the tolls we had to pay along A-4. Only worry was finding a parking space in Historic Centre of Cordoba.

We had the option of halting at Cordoba but chose to halt at Seville for one special reason. Can you guess what? If you guessed it was for Flamenco dance you are right. More about it in a later post.

The drive was uneventful but pleasant. Spring had just set in, it was mid-May. The highways lined with flowering plants made such a wonderful sight.

Road trip Seville to Cordoba

Mezquita – Cathedral of Cordoba History

Mezquita, it was once a mosque which now houses 16th century church. But prior to mosque there existed a church of San Vicente built during 6th century. There are some mosaic remains from that original church. Reading the history of Mezquita had my mind confused and I was not sure what to expect as I stepped into the wonder of medieval world.

The construction of Mezquita lasted 2 whole centuries. Abd ar Rahman I, the emir of Cordoba started this grand project. History mentions that The Mezquita held an original copy of Koran and an arm bone of Prophet Mohammed. This place was one of the major Muslim pilgrimage sites.

Cordoba Mosque

Cordoba Mosque Interior

The history of Mezquita (Mosque) started in 774 BC but the history of Cathedral in Mezquita started in 13th century. Cordoba was captured from Moors in 1236, Mezquita was then dedicated to Christians but they did not do any architectural alterations to it. History states that Christians simply dedicated Mezquita to Virgin Mary and worshiped inside it.

In 1520s both the Bishop of the Cathedral (Bishop Manrique) and Carlos V (Charles V, King of Spain) took the decision to construct a cathedral inside the Great Mosque. The construction of the Cathedral of Cordoba was started under the direction of the Spanish architect Hernán Ruiz I and after his death by his son and grandson. Various small chapels have been added to Mezquita and once inside you really don’t know whether you are inside a church or mosque or both.

Tour of Mezquita Cordoba

Once inside for tour, the first impression was as if I had stepped into a forest of red and white striped columns and arches. It has 2 distinct parts – one is this mosque and another a church. An amazing place, as I passed by the columns I felt as if I was walking between different time intervals. This post has pics of the mosque part of Mezquita. I will cover the church part in another post.

It took us 2hours to complete the tour of Mezquita Cathedral of Cordoba. But this monument deserves more time. Every corner had something to say or remind of its grand history.

Mezquita de Cordoba

Mezquita de Cordoba

Great Mosque of Cordoba

Great Mosque of Cordoba 

There are 800 red and white columns with double arches. It is not brightly lit inside and I fumbled with my camera settings. It took a few clicks and adjustments to get some decent shots. Once I did that, I focused to frame but the symmetry everywhere stumped me. The columns are topped with double arches, one is the Romansque arch and the lower one a Visgothic horseshoe arch. From one end it seemed as if the columns extended to infinity.

Prayer Hall Mihrab in Mezquita de Cordoba

The most important part, the prayer hall Mihrab, is an exquisite part of the mosque. It is a one of the most decorated part, a small room with a golden arch entrance. This part was built in 10th century by Al Hakam II. It is said that 3 thousand pounds of colored glass and enamel adorn the walls and the dome here. These were designed by Byzantine craftsmen then.

Mirhab Mezquita

Mirhab Mezquita 

Mihrab, a semicircular niche in the wall of the mosque. It is in the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca and hence the direction that Muslims faced when praying.

Mirhab Mosque Cordoba

Mirhab Mosque Cordoba

mezquita ceiling

Mezquita ceiling

Tour of Cathedral in Mezquita Cordoba

The entire tour took around 2 hours. If you wish to linger on you always can do that too. The transition from Muslim part of Mezquita to Christian part is beautifully done.

I suddenly crossed into so many contrasts. The most striking factor is the color. From a dark forest of red and white striped columns I stepped into bright white environ. Entire camera settings had to be changed.

The ceiling seemed to reach the sky. The concept of prayers offered by Christians and Muslims is so evident here. While the Christians feel ‘close’ to God with these heights. Muslims feel ‘small’ in front of God!

Mezquita Cathedral of Cordoba

Cathedral of Cordoba in Mezquita

Cathedral of Cordoba ceiling art

Cathedral of Cordoba ceiling art

The construction of Cathedral is vertical, while the Mosque is horizontal and covers a huge area. Usually Churches and Mosques both face eastwards (facing towards Jerusalem or Mecca), the Mosque here faces southwards. That is 90degrees to that of the Church inside.

There is absolutely no match in the architectural styles and that is what makes it so unique. But at the end of the tour it was hard for me to say which place of worship looked more beautiful.

Cathedral of Cordoba paintings

Cathedral of Cordoba paintings

Interior of Cathedral in Mezquita

There is a display of ornate golden baroque religious iconography with Christ on the cross, plenty of relics and statues which emphasis on death and the hope of an afterlife. This is again in contrast with the interiors of mosque which does not allow for the artistic representation of the prophets, human or animal forms. It is more calligraphy I felt, which conveys messages from Koran.

Today when I see the inter religion bickering I feel this monument should be highlighted to the world. It is a supreme example of how the house of one religion shelters the faith of another religion. I tell my daughters how this building has the potential to attain religious peace in this world. May be there will come a day when people from different faiths are offering prayers together at the same time!

Cathedral of Cordoba organ

Cathedral of Cordoba organ

Cathedral of Cordoba ceiling

Mezquita Cordoba Tickets

Where to Buy Tickets with Audio Guides

Unlike Alhambra, where there is limited number of tickets, Mesquita, Cordoba has no dearth of tickets. We were there on a day trip from Seville and reached around 11AM. There were hardly 10 to 15 people ahead of us. I have not read a single instance where a tourist would have returned without being able to visit the interiors of Mezquita.

Open Timings

March – October
From 10.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m. from Monday to Saturday
From 8:30 a.m. to 11.30 p.m. and 3.00 p.m. to 7.00 p.m. Sundays and feast days
November – February
From 10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. from Monday to Saturday
From 8:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. and 3.00 p.m. to 6.00 p.m. Sundays and feast days

Ticket Price

Adults: 8euros
10 to 14-year-children: 4euros
Below 10 years old: free
From Monday to Saturday, from 8:30 a.m. to 9:30 a.m., it could be possible to visit the Cathedral free, but individually and in silence. In this period of time group visit isn’t permitted.

What is the dress code for Mezquita?

Mezquita is a fully functioning Roman Catholic Church. Dress code followed are: no hats or caps and no bare shoulders or knees. Also bags bigger than a small day pack are not allowed inside. It is a no for storage for luggage or strollers.

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