Lakshmi Devi Temple of Doddagaddavalli, Hassan, Karnataka
Lakshmi Devi Temple of Doddagaddavalli is one of the several Hoysala temples scattered all over the state of Karnataka. Many have gone into ruins but there are many, still standing strong, radiating its glory. It requires a dedicated trip of many days to cover these Hoysala Temples dotting the map of Karnataka.
Temples with Hoysala Architecture
I have not been able to make that dedicated trip yet, but I have been visiting these temples during my short visits to different parts of Karnataka. Couple of weekends back I visited 3 Hoysala Temples on my trip to Chikmagalur. These 3 were at:
- Lakshmi Devi Temple of Doddagaddavalli,
- Veeranarayana temple in Belavadi
- and Lakshmi Narasimha temple in Javagal
All can be done on a day trip from Chikamagalur. These are lesser known Hoysala Temples compared Belur and Halebid Temples, smaller in size and remotely located. The access isn’t difficult, but the final part, the last couple of kilometers is often through narrow lanes, not even roads. But I am glad I took the effort to trace them out and visit them, a great sense of satisfaction lingers on after the visit.
Lakshmi Devi Temple of Doddagaddavalli
In this post I have the Lakshmi Devi Temple of Doddagaddavalli, Hassan district of Karnataka. I had the good fortune to visit this temple twice within a span of two days. The pujari here made me visit the temple twice. I have given the story in the end of the post.
Doddagaddavalli is a typical village untouched by the modern infrastructure of cities. The houses look bright and lively. This Temple is their pride. You halt at any place in the village, they know you have come to see the temple and give directions even without being asked.
If you pause for some more time, they will ask: yaavu uruu… meaning… you are from which place?
The main landmark is a huge lake besides the temple which was completely dried up when we were there in May 2016. A sturdy boundary wall runs around the temple and inside is very well maintained. (You need to leave your footwear outside).
Lakshmi Devi Temple of Doddagaddavalli History
According to the legends the temple was built in 1114 A.D. by a merchant called Kallahana Rahuta, a merchant or high officer in the Hoysala court. To be precise this temple was constructed under the patronage of Rahuta’s wife Sahaja Devi. This Lakshmi Devi Temple of Doddagaddavalli is believed to be the one of the oldest of all Hoysala Temples. It is definitely in a very good condition considering its age at 10centuries!
After you are inside the complex maintained by Archeological Society of India, you will have to get through a door to get into the Hoysala temple complex. Pilgrims and devotees go around this complex before entering the temple in clockwise direction.
There are 4 small temples at 4 corners of the complex. They were shut. Many of the sculptures seem damaged – a tell-tale sign of Islamic fanaticism. Camera wielding tourists go around capturing the architectural details. I am a combination of both, so with prayers in heart I went clicking and here a few pictures of stone art from that era.
Inside Lakshmi Devi Temple of Doddagaddavalli
The main temple deity is inside the complex. The complex has four shrines with idols of Lakshmi Devi, Kali, Kalabhairaveshwara (a form of Lord Shiva) and Bhoothanatheshwara, in the form of Shiva Linga.
The shrine of Kali is at one end of the oblong hall.
The other names of this goddess are Aadhi Shakthi, Maha Shakthi, and also called Soumya Kali in somber mood after killing the demon Shumbha Nishumbha.
All this was explained by the guide Yogesh.
He kept highlighting the architectural details and sculptures inside the temple with his torch. At the entrance to Kali’s shrine we were taken aback when Yogesh the guide flashed his torch on two human sized skeletons on either side. We were told they are Bhoota and Preta guarding the deity!
Naked, life sized, protruding tongue, stooping posture, distinct rib cage, a slain human head in left hand and a sword in right; the image can haunt you! It took me while to compose the shot framing those in poor light there.
The Pujari Refused to Offer Prayers…
Finally I expressed my desire to offer puja at the shrine of Lakshmi Devi. To my surprise, the pujari refused. He gave me prasad and kumkum but he said: this temple is very dark as you must have noticed the temple needs a bulb inside. It will be good if you can get one in your next visit. I was taken aback not knowing whether it was an order or a request. My mind raced, when will the next visit be possible? The need is genuine and urgent and I felt I had to do something.
I immediately planned, the day after the next I would be returning to Bangalore from Chikmagalur via the same route. I can definitely make the purchase and hand over the bulb.
Surprised Pujari
So, on my return trip I handed over 4 bulbs for the four shrines. Now it was pujari’s turn to be stunned. He politely said:
I had casually mentioned about the need…
I didn’t expect you to take it seriously…
you shouldn’t have spent so much money… and on he went.
Needless to say he was very happy.
After fixing the bulbs I could see him scanning the room and muttering… so much clutter inside I have to clean this place up properly. Earlier he had only one bulb of low wattage which he would keep fixing and re-fixing shrine to shrine for the puja.
Wonder for how many months or years the place hasn’t been lit up properly!
Update Nov 27 2020
The main idol has been damaged. The ‘miscreants’, who struck rather aptly on ‘Tipu Jayanti’, only had to jump the outer walls on the fateful day – the inner doors we are told were left completely unlocked. Read more – Doddagaddavalli – A Requiem for Kalamma
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I think he was just joking when he asked you about the bulbs. I think that if my boyfriend and I were in your place during that visit, we would also be looking for bulbs. It is because we don’t know if we can come back again. I have been always interested in visiting temples. And I would love to visit this Lakshmi Devi Temple in the future.
Can’t believe you came back with the bulbs…that is just absolutly amazing, you are a great person! =)
Ps. The temple looks really cool and a tad scarry^^
Revisiting this post and I still think that Devil thingy is scary
That was really nice of you to get those bulbs for the temple.
The temple looks very beautiful. I have visited the ones on Halebid but this one is surely worth a visit
The temple is awe-inspiring! Loved the photos, and honestly would love to do a tour of all the temples in the area, even if it does sound like a difficult endeavor.
The temple looks so nice! I love visiting places that are less popular with tourists.
I hope to visit India again in March so I will add this place to my travel list. Thank you for discovering a new place to me.
That temple’s beautiful. Its a really great reminder to all of us why we love to travel so much! Great photos!
This is a very interesting place and the temples still standing proudly. I wish that the modern architectures are like before, wherein it lasts for centuries. Great reading!
Loved the architecture of Lakshmi Devi Temple. The monument looks so beautiful and thanks for sharing about your trip with us!
The temple is truly glorious. I agree that it is in good shape for its age. How nice that the locals are so proud of their town’s treasure.
These temples look amazing. It is great news that because of you, these can now be enjoyed by others in full light! Great story.
Amazing post, very informative and well structured. Thank you for sharing! 🙂
I love that you brought back bulbs – how wonderful! You helped out and it made for a great story 🙂
I LOVE your response to the Pujari! Good going on that.. you get the experience you are looking for and you get to help them out. That is awesome.
It’s was so good of you to return with bulbs, I know your kindness was helpful to future travelers who would want to offer prayers. Is the Lakshmi temple named after Queen Rani of Jhansi? I recently read Rebel Queen by Michelle Moran, and the temple reminded me. Great post
Hahah the bulbs 🙂 the temple is stunning and I love the details carved into the figures. The more I read about India and see how beautiful it is, the more I want to go 🙂
Hassan district is known for it’s temples. Nice pictures and thanks for the history behind this temple. Will definitely refer your blog when we plan to visit this place.
I love the temple architecture of Karnataka. I have been here twice before, but since I was way too small my parents decided not to opt for temples . Now that I am old enough perhaps I will make a trip soon.
What a strange incident with the bulbs:) One more reason to say “It happens only in India” 🙂
Honestly, I don’t even know where Karnataka is located. I do love the information and photos about the temples. I have seen many different temples and one never looks like another.
I am always amazed to see the how diverse India is. There’s an accumulation of history that makes for a beautiful final combination. I love your pictures and your story on the post (and the history of the place), waiting for the next trip you take to another temple of the region!
This is s lovely and the colours in the pictures stand out so nicely. I love it that the people greet with friendliness and know you are there for the temple and are so welcoming in showing that part of their culture.I learn so much about India from reading. One day I will get to see it myself. This is very impressive!
The temple looks amazing and i was impressed reading your story with the light bulbs. I have visited India and I have always been asked for an “offer” (donation) every time I went to a temple. It’s good to know that there are people who don’t think about money all the time.
Another part of India I knew nothing about! But then there are probably thousands of these temples around India and we may not be able to see them all. I’m not sure when I’ll be able to so for now, I’ll content myself with the photos you’ve shared.
Nicely written. I love these really old temples and the details on their walls. Thanks for sharing.
Do I understand well that Hoysala is an area or Karnataka or did I get it wrong? Thanks
Those Indian templates are just amazing. India has been on my bucket list for years and I can’t wait to travel there. Thanks so much for sharing your experience!
Nice post. I had visited this place about 3 years back , I think, on the way back from Shringeri… Actually was looking for Veera Naraya temple. But , on asking for directions people led us to this temple (not that I regretted). I liked the Temple.
Bhuta and the Preta, guarding the Kali’s shrine probably indicate that , Kali is the ruler of all the worlds including the underworld ! None can bypass her !
Beautiful temple. I chuckled at the light bulbs too. I wonder how many other people heard his request, but for whatever reasons couldn’t come back with the bulbs. Thanks for linking up. I’m slow getting around this week. Listening to and marking 100 final English presentations 🙂 #TPThursday
Such a lovely story Indrani! I liked the story about the bulbs. Good that you went back with bulbs.
And the Bhoota Preta duo must be looking supernatural in that poor light.
Very interesting and unusual temple. I like the story about the light globes you brought back.
Wow you actually went back!! a true devotee you are….
I also visited the smaller hoysala temples on my work trip in karnataka and was mesmerized by them!!
This temple is wonderful and lovely sculptures!!
What a lovely and serene place ! Hoysala architechture and sculpture is so unique and impressive . Beautiful green surrounding !
You done the right offer, indeed, by giving bulbs to the temple! Truly remarkable temple complex and impressive architecture… I also liked the colourful village atmosphere out there.
Intricate rock carvings here
What lovely shots. I like those colourful houses.
The tongue out reminds me of my favourite emoji.
Sydney – City and Suburbs
Indrani, I enjoyed your post but I enjoyed the story about the light bulbs even more. Show how we can help other even if it is in a small way (it may seem small to us but can mean the world for another person).
I loved the stone temple and those “skeletons” are beautifully carved, although I understand your surprise!
That’s one beautiful temple complex; easy to understand why it’s the pride of the village. I love the amazingly detailed stone work
You must have brightened his day (in more ways than one) when you returned with the light bulbs! Beautiful post about such an amazing temple – and village!
Yet another great post on Karnataka’s unexplored temples. Thanks for share Indrani :). It was really sweet of you to provide the bulbs for the temple. Little gestures like these makes your travel worthwhile.
That was a very warm gesture Indrani! Lovely post!
That devil thingy is scary. But a lovely temple. Well captured.
Lovely post. Glad to know more about this temple.
Thanks for sharing Indrani; this is now on my wish list:)
The bulb incident is really interesting and funny!
Very thoughtful of you to gift the bulbs to this architecture marvel…looks like the lawns outside are also well maintained.
Normally, the Garbhagruha or sanctum sanctorum of all temples are dark and the lighting up of the camphor (now banned in many temples in TN) in the big brass lamps lightens up the idol’s face and features which is considered sacred and holy but nowadays that tradition is gone with many modern temples having chandeliers and other decorations that gives the temple a five star look:)
I can definitely make the purchase and hand over the bulb. So, on my return trip I handed over 4 bulbs for the four shrines. Now it was pujari’s turn to be stunned. He politely said:
I had casually mentioned about the need…
I didn’t expect you to take it seriously…
you shouldn’t have spent so much money… and on he went.
Needless to say he was very happy.
It was true worship Indrani ji . I never visited Karnataka but yes , have a future plan . I always noticed that in our old temples each and every brick has some specific intricate art . This always attracts me and make me proud for our culture.
Very nice pics, good to know bringing bulb and cleaning the place.
How beautiful are these temples. Just plain awesome…
So so beautifully written! Going through the post was like déjà vu for me. And yea, the Bhoota-Preta do look supernatural, especially since the light is poor inside. Hope to visit after the rains, to see the countryside green in full glory.
(And having met the Bhat-Jai, I can very well imagine him telling you to get few bulbs for the temple. A stern but friendly person!)
Such intricate detailing …splendid!
Such a beautiful temple with some brilliant architecture and still they have to struggle for bulbs! That’s really sad!
Amazing pictures Indrani and I am really intrigued with the Bhoota Preta one. Something which I have never seen till date!
Awesome pictures. I like the way you narrate things about the temple.
Why bhoota and preta are guarding the temple. Is there any story behind it?
There is no particular story but almost all temples have dwarpalikas… meaning guards. This being Goddess Kali her guards are bhoot and pret. Thank you for the visit Alina Jack. Very sorry to reply so late.
Beautiful temple. So nice of you to take efforts for bulbs for the temple.
Wow! Beautiful temple and wonderful pictures too!
The story of your gifting the bulbs and bringing light and joy to the priest is indeed marvelous! Good on you!
nice post
Ah, one will never be able to visit all the wonderful temples in India in one lifetime, methinks.
Another splendid temple…I love to visit temples, especially those like this one that are very old…I always imagine all the other people who walked there way back when….
The bulb incident is very funny. The poojari must be shocked.
I’m also surprised to see the Boota idol. In Hoysala temples which I have visited I could not find any such Boota idols are.