Change of Guard in Syntagma Square Athens, Greece

WARNING: This post on Change of Guard in Syntagma Square has 21 pictures. The change of guard takes place at the Monument of the Unknown Soldier, in front of Parliament, Syntagma Square, Athens every hour no matter what the weather is. I had a brief stint with Indian Air Force as a uniformed personnel, so witnessing this meant a lot to me.

It is said that the change of guards in Syntagma Square on a Sunday at 11 AM is worth watching, it is more elaborate one. We had to be content watching the simple one as we were there on a week day.

Change of Guard in Syntagma Square

Change of guard takes place at the Parliament, other important official buildings and Presidential Palace in Athens.

Photo Essay on Change of Guard in Syntagma Square Athens

The Monument of the Unknown Soldier is guarded by Presidential guards known as Evzones (Special unit of the Hellenic Army, also known as Tsoliades). As we stood there waiting for the clock to strike 10 and for the drama to begin 3 well dressed Greek soldiers marched into the square. Any first timer would be struck with awe at the graceful, yet firm rigid movements of the soldiers.

The Greek Parliament guards wear their traditional 19th century costume from southern Greece; the skirt with several neat pleats attracts attention. The shoes aren’t boots as one expects them to be, but deep red colored slipons (each is said to 3kgs.). The guys are huge. One has to be more than 6 feet tall to get selected for this prestigious role.
Change of Guard in Syntagma Square
The guards stand in front of their guard house motionless. As the new guards who are to replace them march in, the old guards start a kind of slow motion march dragging their foot backward, then raising that leg out straight before taking each step. They do a small drill lifting their guns, every action done very slowly. The new guards march towards them and they exchange their places.
Change of Guard in Syntagma Square

Change of Guard in Syntagma Square

Notice the Tsarouchi shoe? Tsarouchia are typically made of a number of pieces of stiff leather hand-sewn together. They have an upturned toe, covered by a large woolen pompon. It was originally intended to make the shoe’s toe waterproof, but lately as an essential feature of their decoration.

The new guards march off to replace the old ones.

Change of Guard in Syntagma Square

Each soldier mounts guard for one hour at a time for three times every forty eight hours. They work in pairs in order to perfectly coordinate their movements.

The old and the new guard do some drills together. Years later during my visit to Attari border post near Amritsar, I witnessed guards of India and Pakistan do drills together. Read this: Attari Border Beating Retreat Ceremony.

Change of Guard in Syntagma Square Athens Greece

The grave of the Unknown Soldier represents the common memory of all unknown soldiers killed at war.

The old guards marching off. (Could those shoes weigh 3 kg, really?) The old guards join the main guard who escorted the new guards.

Change of Guard in Syntagma Square

Three of them now march off, the soldiers in normal uniform saluting them as they cross.

A cross over takes place, the new guard at the right goes to the left, the one in the left to right.

Change of Guard in Syntagma Square

Their movements are so symmetric and interesting to capture in lens.

Uniform of Presidential Guard – Interesting Facts

  • The white skirt has 400 folds represents the 400 years of Ottoman occupation over the Greek. The skirt is made with 30 metres of cloth.
  • Shoes worn by the Evzones are known as Tsarouchia and weigh over three kilograms
  • The toe of the Tsarouchia is pointed upwards and covered by a black silk pom-pom which is hand cut to shape
  • The shoes have at least 60 nails on the sole. During the march of the Evzone the sound of nails hitting the ground simulate the sound of battle.
  • An interesting tale goes that – when a young King Otto moved from Bavaria to Greece to take the throne, he could no longer hear the sounds of horses that he loved. So he made his guards walk in this fashion to replicate the sound and therefore, make him feel like he was closer to home.

The tassels, pleats all ruffled after the march.

A soldier in normal uniform adjusts the pleats and sets the tassels flat on the skirt, fustanella. (Fustanella is a traditional pleated skirt like garment, also referred to as a kilt worn by men of many nations in the Balkans.)

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