Chandranath Shiva Temple in Hetampur, Birbhum West Bengal

Quest for terracotta temples was on. The more we saw more curious we got. And also a little worried that these temples will reduce to dust soon. From Ilambazar we drove to Hetampur, a dust covered, sleepy, remote town just to see two forgotten terracotta temples. This post is on Chandranath Shiva Temple in Hetampur.

While it features in the ASI list of protected monuments in West Bengal, I am sure not a single Indian Rupee is spent on its maintenance. Almost the whole of its surface area is covered with black dried moss, with patches of reddish brown tiles peeping from here and there. The monument badly needs a face scrub and a good coat of terracotta touch.
Chandranath Shiva Temple
Goddess Durga in one of the terracotta panels

Chandranath Shiva Temple in Hetampur

Chandranath Shiva Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Soon I overcame the disappointment of seeing its dilapidated state. I was fascinated and full of admiration for the brilliant art work on the facade.

So much of it is hidden; there is good scope for wonderful pictures here. It is the 9 pinnacled, navaratna style of Bengali architecture. Each pinnacle is topped with woman’s figure with arms stretched out.

Chandranath Shiva Temple Hetampur
9 pinnacles terracotta temple
Chandranath Shiva Temple, Hetampur has a good fusion of Bengali and English art style and subjects. The facade has a mix of stories of several themes and subjects.

Queen Victoria on Terracotta Panel

Some of the panels had figures depicting English dressing styles of 19th century. The depiction of English women in the walls hints at their presence and their influence on local art.  There is a portrait of Queen Victoria, European nuns, hat wearing men and priests.

The architects and artists of those days were definitely impressed by their styles or were they forced to depict them on temples? Nobody was around to answer any of our questions.
Queen Victoria on Terracotta Panel Hetampur

Shiva Linga Chandranath Shiva Temple Hetampur

Shiva Linga inside Chandranath Shiva Temple Hetampur

There is hardly any space on either side of the temple; a shop on one side and double storied house on the other. Though a double courtyard enhances the entrance. Inside is a white Shiva Linga, it did look like prayers were being offered here. I just felt like praying, “O! Lord Shiva, please protect your own abode from the land sharks!”

Other Terracotta Temples of Hetampur

Dewanji Temple is another terracotta Temple of Hetampur that is wearing away and succumbing to time. Gol Mandir, another terracotta temple no longer exists due to the kindness of a land shark there. Thankfully its memory survives in photographs. Mukul Dey had photographed these terracotta Temples in 1940s.

How to Reach Hetampur West Bengal

Hetampur village is located in Durbajpur Block in Birbhum district, West Bengal. It is famous for the Royal and historical palace and Hetampur college. There is yet another village with the same name located in Jagdishpur of Bhojpur district in Bihar.

Distance from Shantiniketan Bolpur to Hetampur is is 40 km by road and Murshidabad to Hetampur is 120 km. We were on a road trip through the tourist attractions of West Bengal. You can check the itinerary here: Road Trip through top tourist attractions of West Bengal.

Hetampur road map

Shantiniketan – Hetampur – Murshidabad road map in West Bengal.

There are state transport buses. You can also hire private vehicles to reach Hetampur.

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