Baluchari Silk Sari Weavers Bishnupur West Bengal

Baluchari, a silk fabric may have originated in Baluchar a village of Murshidabad district, but it is associated more with Bishnupur district. Baluchari Sari is famous because the weavers weave an entire story with threads along the border and pallu of the sari. Often the story is from a mythological theme, Hindu religious stories and nowadays on socio political themes.

Baluchari sari with story of Ahalya in pallu

Shakuntala with deer Baluchari saree

Baluchari Silk Sari Weavers in Bishnupur

There are looms in the lanes and by lanes of Bishnupur town and I could visit one where they permitted me to take pictures. Usually it is a family business kind of thing. Silk is procured, designs are planned and within the stipulated time the finished product is delivered. These sarees sell for more than double the price in open market compared to what the weaver gets.

Baluchari from Bishnupur
Baluchari Silk Sari Bishnupur Bankura

Silk threads that contrast the base color is used to weave stories and characters on the borders and aanchal (the part that is thrown over the shoulder) of the saree.

Making of Baluchari Saree

It takes almost a week to weave one saree. The production process of Baluchari can be divided into several parts:-

Cultivation of cocoons:

Since the discovery so many years ago that the fiber or filament composing the cocoon of the silkworm can be constructed into a beautiful and durable fabric, silkworms have been bred for the sole purpose of producing raw silk.

Processing of yarns:

To make the yarn soft, it is boiled in a solution of soda and soap and then dyed in acid color. The yarn is stretched from both the sides in opposite directions putting some force with both palms. This process is needed to make the yarn crisper.

simple Baluchari sari

Baluchari Silk Sari Bishnupur- souvenir

Baluchari Silk Sari Bishnupur

Motif making:

Making of the motifs for aanchal and other part of Baluchari is in itself an intricate process. The design is drawn on a graph paper, it is colored and punching is done using cards. After punching, these cards are sewed in order and fixed in the jacquard machine.

Weaving Baluchari Silk Sari:

After jacquard loom has been introduced, weaving of a Baluchari saree takes five to six days to get completed. Two weavers work on it on shifting basis. Baluchari thus prepared becomes the sign of aristocracy, the attire of status. Maintenance of quality of Baluchari saree is taken care of precisely. The quality is checked from the stage of dyeing of the yarn to the packaging of the saree.

Baluchari Silk Sari Bishnupur

Different Types of Baluchari Sari

There are different types of Baluchari sarees. Simplest Baluchari sarees have single color thread work. Meenakari Baluchari sarees have 2 or more colored threads. And Swarnachari sarees have threads of gold or silver combined with other color threads. Needless to say the Swarnachari sarees are the costliest of all.

Every Bengali bride owns one. If you are ever there do take one for the woman in your life!

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