Descent of Ganges and Arjuna’s Penance, Mahabalipuram

Descent of Ganges and Arjuna’s Penance Mahabalipuram is one the most mind boggling sculpted bas relief in Tamil Nadu. It is lying out in the open for all to see. Something so precious, yet lying so uncared beside a road where traffic plies nonstop.

Descent of Ganges and Arjuna's Penance Mahabalipuram

Descent of Ganges and Arjuna’s Penance Mahabalipuram

Descent of Ganges and Arjuna’s Penance, Mahabalipuram

I found the relief carvings on a huge rock the most stunning work in Mahabalipuram. A 25.5 by 12 meter tall structure; the relief has so many sculpted images that leaves one confused what it could all mean. This is a popular monument from the Pallava times, a South Indian dynasty that existed from 275 CE to 897 CE.

Looking at the sculpted images, I tried to relate to various stories each section might be representing. My mind was recollecting the article I read on conflicting views about this relief: whether this depicted ‘Arjuna’s Penance’ or ‘Bhagiratha’s penance’ that is for descent of Ganges.

Descent of Ganges and Arjuna's Penance in Mahabalipuram

Descent of Ganges and Arjunas Penance Mahabalipuram

Baby elephants huddled around mama elephant’s leg!

Arjuna’s penance would mean, the penance of Pandav prince Arjuna to obtain the Pasupata, the mighty weapon from Lord Shiva.

However Bhagiratha’s penance would mean, the penance of sage Bhagiratha in Himalayas to bring down River Ganga to Earth (descent of Ganges) for redeeming his ancestor’s souls.

Whichever may be the story, it was immaterial to me then. I was devouring the images with eyes and lens, constructing my own stories and tried to relate to the images of the masterpiece in my own way.

Other Images Sculpted at Arjuna’s Penance

In addition to  depiction of Arjuna’s Penance I found the sculpted image of a cat’s meditative posture interesting. It was surrounded by 15 mice, one of them praying to the cat. Could he be the hypocritical cat in fake meditation trying to fool the mice who came seeking justice from him?

Descent of Ganges and Arjunas Penance Mahabalipuram

Cat in fake meditation?

Descent of Ganges and Arjunas Penance Mahabalipuram

Oh! That itchy nose!

Descent of Ganges and Arjuna's Penance Mahabalipuram

Is that a pygmy hog at the top?

Descent of Ganges and Arjuna's Penance Mahabalipuram

Saint in pensive mood Mahabalipuram

This statue silenced my ruffled thoughts. How well the sculptor depicted his pensive mood! What must have been his thoughts while chiseling away at the rock!

See more carvings at Krishna Cave Temple.

Location of Great Relief at Mamallapuram

Mahabalipuram is also known by the name Mamallapuram. It is located on the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal, in the Chengalpattu district of the state of Tamil Nadu, India.

Nearest train station to Mamallapuram is Chengalpattu Junction. It connects Chennai and various parts of Tamil Nadu by express and mail trains. On arrival at the station, one can hire a cab to travel a distance of around 29 km to reach Mamallapuram.

Nearest airport is in Chennai. Roads are good too. We traveled to Mahabalipuram by road after night halt at Kanchipuram.

Best Time to Visit Mahabalipuram

The best time to visit Mahabalipuram is during the winters, from the months of November to February. During this time, days are pleasant while the nights are cool.

Other Sights in Mamallapuram

You can visit the beach, monoliths, stone carvings and shore temples nearby. Mahabalipuram tour can be done in one day. Other 5 places worth a visitin Mahabalipuram are:

  • Pancha Rathas
  • Mahishasuramardini Mandapa.
  • Mahabalipuram lighthouse and beach.
  • Shore temple
  • Ganesh Ratha and Krishna’s Butterball.

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